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Hi Pizzaguy, Your a year younger than myself . I guess I do write to much sometimes getting off my topic I guess I have tons to say I guess perhaps its how my brain is wired LOLOL I had thought maybe if I typed in all caps then someone may be thinking I'm shouting LOLO but I still never got the AC worked out yet so guess I will have to get it on the road to take it to a shop to figure that one out . I was just outside b4 it started to rain messing with the car . I am doing things as I can afford them . The key is really a bite in the behind YIKES !!! I don't plan on burning out the tires anytimne soon especially with the high miles on my car 146,000 so I will be babying it and driving like a senior citizen LOLOL.. thanks for your kind response oh how do I get in touch with the Maryland Crossfire group ? I live in Aberdeen 32 miles above Murdermore Maryland LOLOLO...
Maryland Crossfire Group has a facebook page: Maryland Club
You can also try contacting PNA by sending him a personal message on this forum. Go to the Regional forums near the bottom of the home page and click on the Northeast Forum. You will find a thread there with the Maryland Club. Click on PNA post and a menu opens with "send a private message to PNA". Click on that and send your greeting.
About the antifreeze; the 50/50 dilutions you purchase at auto parts store are just fine for topping off your coolant system. However, it should be a hybrid organic acid (HOAT) type anti freeze like Zerex G05. It will have some silicates, and no phosphates. That's important. Don't use the older green formula product. I suspect the very new "Universal" anti freeze may be OK, but the recommendation is HOAT, G-05.
Thanks to ManLaw38 for his post here where he wrote: "I also noticed the fuse box with 3 fuses on left side of fire wall near shock tower" (Actually it is mounted on the RH shock tower)
2. 200 amp to Battery
3. 50 amp ABS
4. 50 amp fuse to fan control box which was blown I replaced it
these fuses are hard to find but I got one"
My electric cooling fan was not working on the Aero Blue SRT6 that am refurbishing for my grandson. It triggered the "low coolant" idiot light on the dash. I changed out the coolant level sensor in the coolant resevoir with one known to be working . . . No change. I changed out the cooling fan from my parts car (also known to be working) but still no change. (I fear I'm getting more and more like a Chrysler Stealership service tech . . . Just keep throwing in new parts at the problem an hope you might eventually fix it . . .LOL)
Then I went on a serious search of the forum to find the fuse that controlled that fan. After several threads led me astray with misinformation, my search eventually took me to this thread. Sure enough . . . there are THREE inline fuses inside a little black box mounted on the RH shock tower. These are apparently mystery fuses hidden in plain sight because they are not referenced anywhere in the owner's manual. (I didn't have to go so far as to look in Service Manual . . . Whew!) Sure enough, there is a 50 amp inline fuse inside that box labeled "Electric suction type fan". I took out that fuse and it was blown. Took the same fuse out of my parts car to replace it and VOILA . . . everything is working again!
How did you know that this specific fuse was blown? I've never seen a fuse like this before so don't know what to look for. Thank you in advance as I know this is a year old thread but know you're an active member.
How did you know that this specific fuse was blown? I've never seen a fuse like this before so don't know what to look for. Thank you in advance as I know this is a year old thread but know you're an active member.
Putting a voltmeter on the studs holding down the fuse should give you a 12V reading.
There is a critical observation MISSING in 180's reply. As amended: "Putting a voltmeter on the studs holding down the fuse should give you a 12V reading IF that fuse is blown"! You cannot read a voltage across a fuse that isn't blown (just like testing a wire that is still connected between the test probes of a voltmeter).
There is a critical observation MISSING in 180's reply. As amended: "Putting a voltmeter on the studs holding down the fuse should give you a 12V reading IF that fuse is blown"! You cannot read a voltage across a fuse that isn't blown (just like testing a wire that is still connected between the test probes of a voltmeter).
180 said check the studs, he didn't say BETWEEN the studs. Both studs should read 12v if the fuse is good, only one if it is blown.
You two pick at each other too much. Don't make me have to come up there.
180 said check the studs, he didn't say BETWEEN the studs. Both studs should read 12v if the fuse is good, only one if it is blown.
You two pick at each other too much. Don't make me have to come up there.
I knew what I meant. 😀
A broken fuse will give you 12V, a good fuse nada.
180 said check the studs, he didn't say BETWEEN the studs. Both studs should read 12v if the fuse is good, only one if it is blown.
You two pick at each other too much. Don't make me have to come up there.
Too funny... Clarity at times like these makes for a good troubleshooting job. How many hats you have George? I have a whole two recliners full of them, taking one to wear according to my mood at the time. LOL
Re: Help !!! Cooling Fan and A/C issues
There is a critical observation MISSING in 180's reply. As amended: "Putting a voltmeter on the studs holding down the fuse should give you a 12V reading IF that fuse is blown"! You cannot read a voltage across a fuse that isn't blown (just like testing a wire that is still connected between the test probes of a voltmeter). 
