Infinity front speaker replacement help/advice
Hi! I've searched and come up with a bunch of threads but so far every time I do that someone posts some really solid advice after I'm done that would have saved me 4 headaches, 3 busted knuckles, 2 hours of time and a **** load of bad words.
In this thread I found these speakers and ordered them from .
Supposed to be plug and play. I'm terrified of breaking something when I take the door panels off, instructions here.
Thoughts? Advice? Well wishes?
In this thread I found these speakers and ordered them from .
Supposed to be plug and play. I'm terrified of breaking something when I take the door panels off, instructions here.
Thoughts? Advice? Well wishes?
It is pretty straight forward. The only thing I had to do was trim a itty-bitty bit of metal from the mounting "ears" on the speakers to fit into the basket (you'll see).
You'll want to "push" the old speakers out. They are held in place with an adhesive gasket. Steady, firm pressure (on the back of the magnet) will get it loose.
You'll want to "push" the old speakers out. They are held in place with an adhesive gasket. Steady, firm pressure (on the back of the magnet) will get it loose.
Or.. if you have no sound from it.. you should still hear something out of the tweeter... same wires running to it.. and you can access the wiring right there by pulling the little panel (near outside mirror area on the interior panel) .. not impossible somebody did bang for buck stereo mod and wires have run amuck.. LOL.
Here's what he said:
they may fit your door mid bass place no issues, but the sound signal is separated with your factory system
your not getting a full range sound out the speaker you are replacing these with
And then he suggested these:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...al-165-A1.html
they may fit your door mid bass place no issues, but the sound signal is separated with your factory system
your not getting a full range sound out the speaker you are replacing these with
And then he suggested these:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...al-165-A1.html
Last edited by zombiehunter; Mar 3, 2013 at 02:08 PM.
I installed these:
Infinity 6032cf 6-1/2" 2-Way Reference Series Car Speakers
and kept the OEM tweeters. 200% improvment in sound and ~ 50% increase in volume. They seem to be much more efficient than the OEM setup. I'm sure (?) your tweeters are fine-why replace them?
Infinity 6032cf 6-1/2" 2-Way Reference Series Car Speakers
and kept the OEM tweeters. 200% improvment in sound and ~ 50% increase in volume. They seem to be much more efficient than the OEM setup. I'm sure (?) your tweeters are fine-why replace them?
the speakers you linked seem to be the same, so will the tweeters on the speakers in the door work as well as the OEM tweeters? I'm sorry, I know nothing about car audio/audio.
One other thing-there's a switch on the front of each speaker to lessen the tweeter volume. I would install ONE new speaker and listen to it. Then decide which way you like it.
I opted for the reduced high frequency response.
And if it swivels- make sure it's pointed UP at you.
I do it for the lulz
Thanks again for finding me that amp, you've no idea how nice it is to have a radio back after so long
That's kinda the heartbeat of this forum.. and probably why I get a little tweaked when someone comes on here trying to rip members off.. especially newbie's who don't have a clue about things..
Just pay it forward when the time comes along..
Bad speakers generally have one of four problems.
1. burned voice coil - smell the speaker cone near the magnet - you'll know - it's cooked so just toss...
2. ripped surround - look at the rubber surround the attaches the cone to the outer frame for rips and tears. If the tear is small enough, it can be repaired with flexible glue/cement.
3. Delaminated Spider - see if you can carefully lift the spider off the frame - if so, glue with some loctite glue and clamp. This picture shows a spider that been ripped - driver no good.
4. Broken wire from connector to voice coil - set you ohm meter to under 20 ohms and measure the resistance... if you get anyware from 1.8 - to 8.2 ohms (depending on a 2, 4 or 8 ohm driver), then wire and voice coil are fine.
1. burned voice coil - smell the speaker cone near the magnet - you'll know - it's cooked so just toss...
2. ripped surround - look at the rubber surround the attaches the cone to the outer frame for rips and tears. If the tear is small enough, it can be repaired with flexible glue/cement.
3. Delaminated Spider - see if you can carefully lift the spider off the frame - if so, glue with some loctite glue and clamp. This picture shows a spider that been ripped - driver no good.
4. Broken wire from connector to voice coil - set you ohm meter to under 20 ohms and measure the resistance... if you get anyware from 1.8 - to 8.2 ohms (depending on a 2, 4 or 8 ohm driver), then wire and voice coil are fine.
Remember - ohms law and impedance.
Speaker drivers wired in parallel will half the total circuit impedance and thus draw more current - be sure the amp can handle it when at high volumes or ....
Speaker drivers wired in parallel will half the total circuit impedance and thus draw more current - be sure the amp can handle it when at high volumes or ....
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