It's never registered any codes, which is very frustrating!

 

If you want to test if its the skreem id suggest putting the key in the ignition.. Turn to crank, turn the key off but dont remove it.. Press lock or unlock on the key and see what it does. If the vehicld reacts.. Id say its the anttenna or module... If not its fine....hopefully.

Im basing this diagnosis procedure on when i made my push start ignition.. I removed the anntena ring, taped an extra key in it and hid it under the dash. The problem was that if the key is left around the ring.. It will ignore any keyless entry signals from it or any other remote after you've energised the ignition.. Even the outer door cylinders.

So its a guess that if your antenna ring is shot.. Then keyless entry will still work after a start attempt

 

May be a bad engine ground. It's worth disconnecting the battery cables and tracing them to the chassis/engine and cleaning the connections just for peace of mind. You can test for any voltage between the negative cable and the engine block with a voltmeter and key in start position, and that may tell you if there is an issue there (should be close to 0 v).

I'd suspect whatever happened immediately before this issue had something to do with it.

 

You got tires and your car wouldn't start after the tire install and no problems before this? You sure that battery has cranking amps? A battery can show charge and still not have enough cranking amps. Check connections and ground wire as mentioned above.

 

Dad is pretty sure it's not the battery. He thinks that because it cranks for 2 or 3 seconds and then stops and will only do it again when you disconnect and reconnect the battery it won't be the battery. I have instructed him to try disconnecting the battery and charge it up properly. He is after all assuming it wouldn't be the simplest thing, which it could be!

 

Ever watch a Chiwawa chase it's tail? It's cute for a while..

 

Chihuahua ?

 

Ah... guess your on spelling - definition patrol duty today huh..

https://www.google.com/search?q=Chiw...iw=706&bih=238

 

Those little dogs are never cute.

 

Neither is repeating yourself to no avail on an issue.. But what would 180 and I know about these cars..

 

It now won't even attempt to crank. Just all the warning lights coming on but nothing at the key. There is a loud wurring sound coming from the rcm area that i don't know is supposed to be there. It did have an aftermarket immobiliser on it which was taken out because the key fob wouldn't disengage it, maybe it has something to do with that? Didn't go down to the car with any tools like an idiot but all the electrical connectors from the battery seemed in tact and connected though i am also no autoelectrician! Maybe it's time to call them out again

 

What did you actually do here, "we took the workshop the key"?
How did they move the car after they changed the tyres? (Still a bit of Limey in me)
How many keys have you got, would it start on another key?
Nothing happened when went you to start it, so what did you do to make it try and start?

I never could figure out what actually happened so I never got involved, which may be a good thing.
Three months plus went by and I guess you moved the car by towing it correct? There is a lot missing from this tale of woe.

 

THe whirriing sound can be bad bearings in the fan that pulls air from in the car to keep the box cool. The modules in that box cannot stand the terrible heat of the area under the hood, so they put a blower in there to draw air from the passenger compartment.

This "immobiliser" - what the hell is that? And how long ago did you have it taken out? Sounds to me like it is very possible that damn thing should have never been installed to begin with.

Other than that, being hundreds of miles from you (where ever you are) I'd suspect a bad battery or problems in the skreem module as pointed out above.

And this "We had the ecu tested and it came back fine" - I don't believe that.
First, I don't believe the ECU is bad.
Second, I don't believe anyone tested the ECU and you should not, either. How the HELL is someone going to test the ECU? I doubt mockups exist to do such a thing, other than to transplant it into another car and even that is questionable as I don't think the ECU from one car will "talk" to the CAN bus in another car, but I could be wrong there. (Where is Rudy when we need him?)

I will warn you of this, (and you can argue all you want to, but you came to US for help) - get a new battery. I have seen numerous, weird, unexplainable nonsense happen with these cars - all sorts of oddball crap - that disappeared with a new battery. And I've seen it on other vehicles, too.

I once had a damn Dodge Durango towed - it would start but when you released the key, it would die.
NOTHING helped. THen we swapped batteries between it and a van - they BOTH ran fine. We switched the batteries back - the Durango would not run!

Modern car electrical systems are VERY touchy and VERY complicated. This is not 1960 anymore.

 

Did we just hit the 30 cranks and fried ECU on this one? At least now we know.... Guess someone needed to confirm..

Shame.. think that's mentioned in the skreem module post... that has been ignored.

Oh.. and Pizzaguy.. from what I've gathered you can send an ECU off and have it vin coded to work.

 

Did you have any problems before the tire install?

 

With the spelling of TYRES not TIRES, I assumed Mr Noyce is in the UK or somewhere they spell Tire correctly.
I'm thinking that a list of all the symptoms etc is in order, starting from day one and not missing out anything.

 

1) Clue number two was the term "immobilizer".
2) 100% agreee, Dave!

Let's fix this damn car!

 

My name is Daniel and i approve this reply.

 

Hi,
So you wanted a recap of exactly what has happened to the car so far.
First thing I think it is important to tell you. We took the car to have it's after market immobiliser disabled because the key fob you used to disarm it wasn't working properly. Also had a brand new battery in January.
Took it for new tyres at the garage where we have our MOTs done. They couldn't drive it into the workshop because it wouldn't start so they pushed it into the workshop. There was no feed to the starter motor. We took them the second key in case there was something wrong with the original. (the car was car jacked with the key so had a second key coded to it). We called recovery who also couldn't do anything with it so had it towed to a friendly auto electrician. They said they tested everything they could think of and concluded the ECU must be faulty. Lots of people in the UK advertise ECU testing, not 100% sure what they do.
ECU came back fine and working. Refitted it to car, got auto electrician to check all electrical connectors and several were resoldered including the ones marked on the RCM post as being common issues. Reconnected anything that had been disconnected and the car would crank for 2 or 3 seconds then nothing until you disconnected and reconnected the battery. Battery was fully charged before the auto electrician arrived and was connected to another car with jump leads at some points (from what Paul Noyce has told me!)
I took over because I was fed up of my mum complaining about not having her car. We disconnected the RCM following advice on here to make sure the soldering was ok. Board looks a little discoloured at the new solder points but other than that everything was ok. Took the RCM back to the car, reconnected it, hooked the car up to my van with jump leads and nothing. All the lights come on on the dash but there is not even a flutter from the engine, just the wurring sound which as I mentioned could have been there before! Ignition lights don't go out at all they are constantly on, spanner shows to say it is past it's service mileage but not fault codes are logged.
My Dad is absolutely convinced it is not the battery.
Stephanie

 

Somebody PM me how this 2 cranks and pull the cable problem plays out..