I just bought an 04 Crossfire. It's got 72k and when I bought it, I knew the passenger window sometimes wouldn't go up. Sometimes you have to push the up button for ten minutes to get the window to roll up. The previous owner had bought a new power window regulator and hadn't installed it yet. It was part of the deal that he would throw in the regulator and I'd install it. So I got around to that today, and found out it wasn't the regulator that was bad. I used a jumper cable and the window goes up and down fine.

When I pressed the up button, you could hear a rapid clicking sound coming from the rear right of the engine compartment. After looking through the service manual, I found that the Body Control Module has a couple relays for the power windows. Obviously one of the relays went bad. So I opened up the BCM and see that everything is soldered in. I can see there's 3 relays on the upper right side of the board. All of the connections looked to be okay. Is it possible or has anyone ever tried to repair the BCM by just putting a new relay in? Or would I just be better off buying a new BCM?

 

How is that obvious? The BCM applies current to the coil of the relay, and the armature moves, closing a contact that feeds power to the motor in the window. The only thing that would cause the armature to rapidly click, would be insufficient current to hold the relay in.

Now, why would there be enough current to activate the armature, then suddenly NOT enough current to hold it? Seems to me that, when the armature closes and current flows, the voltage drops, causing the armature to relax, and the process is repeated.

Did you put the new regulator in or not? Old motors tend to demand too much current at times and the resistance in the wiring could cause enough of a voltage drop to cause the relay to chatter.

If you have replaced the regulator, then try yanking out the BCM and resoldering the contacts of the relay's coil. THEN, look for corroded, loose or bad connections on the BCM's connectors. On page 8w-60-2, it it all spelled out. I'd suspect the three ground leads, too.


If you really want to change the relay, how 'bout swapping them between the driver and passenger side? I'd bet money the problem will stay on the passenger side.

Just don't replace the BCM unless you have to - you are talking a LOT of money and (I THINK) a trip to the dealer to get it programmed so it will talk in the CAN bus with the rest of the modules....

One more thing - I have never pulled my BCM, but there should be FOUR relays, one for up, one for down for each window. The motor in the door is a reversible motor and the polarity of the current determines the direction it runs. It is possible you have an "on/off" relay and a direction relay, but I really think you have an "up" relay and a "down" relay. In the latter case, that would mean TWO bad relays on ONE side of the board - not likely.

Change the regulator!

 

Thanks for the advice Pizza.... yesterday I had another go at the PW. I had someone help me by pushing the PW buttons while I measured voltages at the relays, relay grounds, switch feeds (#38 right PW, #39 left PW), and wires running to the PW motors (#10 Passenger PW down, #11 Passenger PW up). There are definitely only 3 relays. And all 3 seem to have a part when any PW button is pressed. All 3 have posts where voltages change when the passenger PW down is pushed (and for the rest of the functions). And all 3 feel/sound like they're doing something when a PW button is pushed. The switch feeds had identical voltage changes compared to eachother, which would indicate that the switches are good. For good measure though, I swapped switches inside but the same condition still persists.

I then removed the BCM from the car per the service manual. I opened it up inside so I could examine the solder connections with a magnifying glass but everything looked kosher. I have access to the probably the crappiest soldering iron in the world and I didn't want to get all ***** nilly and start throwing it on every connection I saw (BCM is expensive and I don't want to mess it up). I also checked the male/female posts in the BCM and plug on the car for corrosion. Everything looked good. Also, when I first had the door apart originally, I hooked up the new regulator to the harness in the door (didn't actually install it in the door because I wanted to see if it worked first) and still got a clicking from the relay.

BTW, when I reinstalled the BCM and started the car, the spoiler button is blinking now. The battery is newer and I'm getting 12.0-12.4V while the cars off and about 14.4-14.6V while running. I did try leaving the (-) battery cable unhooked for about 10 minutes and hooking back up but it's still blinking.

But I definitely suspect there is something going on in the BCM. Probably like you said with the solder connections. I'm going to have to buy a good iron before I do that though.

 

I've been looking around and can find a used BCM with a warranty for around $150-300. And it looks like it doesn't need dealer programming, just the right steps to learn the vin and stuff.... at least from this thread. They also had the same exact issues. It might be the route I end up going here shortly.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...le-issues.html

One question though, I would assume the BCM is option/model/year specific. I'd definitely go with a 04 BCM but is there a difference between an auto and manual car's BCM?

 

Hi,

I had Bcm issues last year, I purchased a used one off eBay and installed it. It fixed the alarm issues and not not being able to lock and unlock the doors etc... But the new Bcm had almost exact part number.. But not exact.. So this Bcm solved the problems that I had but created other minor ones such as not being able to operate the spoiler and having the traction control light stay on and not being able to turn it on or off.. Either way I could use the car and ran it all summer that way.. No problems.. I just figure now I should try and get the old one fixed if possible in order to have everything working 100% . Mine had went bad after my battery had died during winter storage and I went to put a charger on it and after that it seemed to have screwed it up...

Has anyone ever had their Bcm repaired? If so where did you get it repaired?
I was browsing online and found index has anyone ever gotten stuff repaired from them?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

 

I've never heard of a BCM failing except for when the car is flooded up to the windshield. What symptoms did you have that you were trying to fix with a new BCM? I'm not convinced that your old one is bad.

And running around with the traction control not acting right seems kind of a bad idea to me. Let's look at going back to the bad BCM and see what we have, first. That's my two cents, anyway.

As to your question - Maybe Rob at Needswings.com knows someone.... Or Rudy at acceleratedindustries.com

 

When the battery died, I put on the charger and after that I couldn't unlock the doors using the fob.. I would unlock the driver side with the key then the alarm would sound.. No way to turn it off.. The car would unlock itself whenever it wanted by itself and would lock itself whenever... It was really bizarre... All this even after putting in a new battery... I removed one of the boards which is known to have the bad solder joints, they were not too bad but soldered them all again anyways... That didn't change a thing.. Then I opened up the trunk to see if the pump module was wet and bad.. It looked new.. I swapped it with the spare one... Still no change.. So I figured the Bcm.. Found one very similar to my part number so I bought it.. Put it in and it fixed all the demons lol but upon first use my spoiler raised and never came down... Perhaps it is a srt Bcm.. And also the traction control can't be turned off... It's not hindering the safety any.. If anything it's hindering the fun lol as I can't really spin out the tired due to the traction control always being on...
Hence this is why it must be the Bcm which is faulty.... Have they been Known to lose their programing or just go bad with respect to fried internal electronic components?

 

My 2 guesses are the BCM is from a SRT and/Or a different transmission and rear ratio. Plus maybe the traction switch is a separate issue. From my understanding the spoiler will come up if vehicle speed is not confirmed or abs signals don't match. So your BCM might be for wrong transmission.

 

Ya that Bcm is definitely not the perfect fit for my crossfire unfortunately but it is doing the job. That is why I would like to have my original one fixed.. I just need to find some place that can repair them as I am certain that the original issues are related with the Bcm.. What is the cost of a new one? Worst case scenario.

 

How many children do you have? Maybe you cannot afford one.
There are companies that fix these things, I am waiting for a reply from one that fixes SKREEM modules, I'll ask them about your problem.

 

For a Crossfire, anything is affordable lol
Perfect thanks, please let me know if they can repair a Bcm..

 

I found a good used BCM for under $200. When it was installed, the car wouldn't start, so my mechanic put the old one back in and it runs. Still an intermittent problem with windows not working properly, and last week the alarm went off three times for no reason when I was driving.

My mechanic says the BCM has to be programmed to the VIN but they need a special chip to do that, and no one in town has one. Both Mopar dealers were no help. Any suggestions on how to get the BCM programmed to work with my Xfire?

 

 

I looked at JMLaskers posts and this is the best one that explains everything - I hope.
CLICK
Look up earlier posts in the same thread to see more of the story.

 

This is the original Bcm in my crossfire.
The replacement that I have in there right now has all the same numbers with the exception oh the 03W38 which I believe is 03W41 or something of that nature.. In order to find a good replacement for my original Bcm do I need to find an exact match or can one use another and get the software reprogrammed in it to match my car specs? Etc... Just trying to figure out what the next step is if I can't find someone to repair this original one or if I need to find an exact match used one or have to just purchase a new exact one for me?

 

I was at a dealer today to have the used BCM I bought reprogrammed for my car, and the dealer said they couldn't reprogram it because it was set for a specific VIN and would have to be wiped. They were able to "flash"my existing BCM so I will see if that works better. Sounds like other people have had problems with used BCM units not working correctly. My vehicle wouldn't even start with the other unit in place. Has anyone actually been able to reprogram one of these units successfully? I so, how?

 

If you look at the previous post from one hundred 80.. He has the instructions to perform when inserting another Bcm into your car.. Did you perform that procedure in order for your used Bcm to read your cars vin etc... If not, you should perform that first and go from there... Also is you replacement Bcm the exact match to your original one or not?

I am also confused as to the difference between the dealership flashing the unit? Hat exactly is that? And the procedure performed when you first insert your Bcm by turning the key on for a minute prior to starting in order for it to read your vin etc..

How did your Bcm fail? Did it also fail after having a dead battery, and type of symptoms did it give you thereafter ? What kind of issues?

 

We did the procedure with turning the key on and waiting one minute. Nothing happened. My mechanic has the AllDataDIY program and checked that. BCM wouldn't work, which is when I went to the dealer for programming. I don't know what they meant by "flashed" but probably reset using the equipment they had.

I got the replacement through UNeedAPart, gave them VIN and everything. At this point, I will probably sell or trade the Xfire, as I don't have interest in spending my time chasing this any longer. Nice car, but a pain all the same.

 

You asked how the original BCM failed--it was mainly sporadic window operation (or lack thereof). Window wouldn't go up periodically, Also recently the alarm (which I have never used in 4 years of owning the car) went off 3 times in about 10 minutes of driving. Only did that one other time and hasn't since. Not sure if that is a BCM issue. I couldn't shut it off but it eventually stopped each time.

 

How did flashing the Bcm work for you?
I believe that flashing is basically re entering the software into the Bcm.
Let me know if that worked for you.
Thanks