Help on Routing Amp Wires
Please Help everyone but understand that I am new to the whole stereo install area.
I own a 2007 coupe and the factory amp finally went out. I am replacing it in the stock location as I was able to find an aftermarket amp (JL Audio HD 600/4) that fits into the same place where the original amp is located. I previously replaced all of the speakers in my car and so I am not using any of the factory speakers.
My question is this---In installing my new amp I need to run a power wire and ground wire from my battery to the amp (same location as original AMP). For the life of me I cannot find a place to run the new wires from the inside cabinet (passenger side) to the engine bay where the battery is. Can someone hop me find a hole or break in the firewall where I can pass the wires thru.
ANother thing. The reason why I am running a new power and ground wire to the aftermarket amp is because I cannot find the power wire for the stock factory amp. Also my aftermarket amp calls for a 4 to 8 gauge power wire. I do not know what gauge the factory power wire is. But Like I said I cannot find the power or ground wires that plugged into the factory amp, although I was able to locate all of the wires going to the speakers.
Remember I am new to the install game and so if someone could provide me guidance here I would greatly appreciate it
I own a 2007 coupe and the factory amp finally went out. I am replacing it in the stock location as I was able to find an aftermarket amp (JL Audio HD 600/4) that fits into the same place where the original amp is located. I previously replaced all of the speakers in my car and so I am not using any of the factory speakers.
My question is this---In installing my new amp I need to run a power wire and ground wire from my battery to the amp (same location as original AMP). For the life of me I cannot find a place to run the new wires from the inside cabinet (passenger side) to the engine bay where the battery is. Can someone hop me find a hole or break in the firewall where I can pass the wires thru.
ANother thing. The reason why I am running a new power and ground wire to the aftermarket amp is because I cannot find the power wire for the stock factory amp. Also my aftermarket amp calls for a 4 to 8 gauge power wire. I do not know what gauge the factory power wire is. But Like I said I cannot find the power or ground wires that plugged into the factory amp, although I was able to locate all of the wires going to the speakers.
Remember I am new to the install game and so if someone could provide me guidance here I would greatly appreciate it
If you pull the battery and battery tray you will find a rubber grommet. Or if you dig high enough from the inside you will find it. I went the inside route with a clothes hanger poked through and pulled the wires back in with it.
Mr M:
Thanks so much for your reply. When i posted I had a feeling that if you saw me in distress (as I am always in) you would chime in. Again, thanks so much. I had been using a clothes hanger and I was digging from the inside but I could not find a thruway. Is the hole from the inside above where the stock amp is or closer to the left door side. I want to go back digging with the hanger but I need an idea as to where to find the gap
Thanks so much for your reply. When i posted I had a feeling that if you saw me in distress (as I am always in) you would chime in. Again, thanks so much. I had been using a clothes hanger and I was digging from the inside but I could not find a thruway. Is the hole from the inside above where the stock amp is or closer to the left door side. I want to go back digging with the hanger but I need an idea as to where to find the gap
I can't tell you where the passage is, but I can alert you to one hazard: If the chassis ground connection becomes resistive, you are likely to blow up that nice new amplifier.
Here is a way around it - simply put a fuse in the 'ground' or negative lead as well as the hot lead. If the factory engine-to-chassis connection becomes resistive, the ground cable fuse will keep your amp from becoming the defacto ground return for the starter.
Just a suggestion, I know that fusing the 'ground' or 'return' line seems silly - but it has saved a few pieces of aftermarket electronics over the years. ANYTIME you run a ground wire direct to the battery, always fuse it. What ever rating the amp calls for for it's power lead, use the same rating for the negative lead as well.
Here is a way around it - simply put a fuse in the 'ground' or negative lead as well as the hot lead. If the factory engine-to-chassis connection becomes resistive, the ground cable fuse will keep your amp from becoming the defacto ground return for the starter.
Just a suggestion, I know that fusing the 'ground' or 'return' line seems silly - but it has saved a few pieces of aftermarket electronics over the years. ANYTIME you run a ground wire direct to the battery, always fuse it. What ever rating the amp calls for for it's power lead, use the same rating for the negative lead as well.
I can't tell you where the passage is, but I can alert you to one hazard: If the chassis ground connection becomes resistive, you are likely to blow up that nice new amplifier.
Here is a way around it - simply put a fuse in the 'ground' or negative lead as well as the hot lead. If the factory engine-to-chassis connection becomes resistive, the ground cable fuse will keep your amp from becoming the defacto ground return for the starter.
Just a suggestion, I know that fusing the 'ground' or 'return' line seems silly - but it has saved a few pieces of aftermarket electronics over the years. ANYTIME you run a ground wire direct to the battery, always fuse it. What ever rating the amp calls for for it's power lead, use the same rating for the negative lead as well.
Here is a way around it - simply put a fuse in the 'ground' or negative lead as well as the hot lead. If the factory engine-to-chassis connection becomes resistive, the ground cable fuse will keep your amp from becoming the defacto ground return for the starter.
Just a suggestion, I know that fusing the 'ground' or 'return' line seems silly - but it has saved a few pieces of aftermarket electronics over the years. ANYTIME you run a ground wire direct to the battery, always fuse it. What ever rating the amp calls for for it's power lead, use the same rating for the negative lead as well.
Mr M:
Thanks so much for your reply. When i posted I had a feeling that if you saw me in distress (as I am always in) you would chime in. Again, thanks so much. I had been using a clothes hanger and I was digging from the inside but I could not find a thruway. Is the hole from the inside above where the stock amp is or closer to the left door side. I want to go back digging with the hanger but I need an idea as to where to find the gap
Thanks so much for your reply. When i posted I had a feeling that if you saw me in distress (as I am always in) you would chime in. Again, thanks so much. I had been using a clothes hanger and I was digging from the inside but I could not find a thruway. Is the hole from the inside above where the stock amp is or closer to the left door side. I want to go back digging with the hanger but I need an idea as to where to find the gap
I am just curious. Mr M and everyone else, what did you decide to do with all of the bundles of wire that was plugged to the factory amp. Did you just keep it there or locate the wiring harnesses elsewhere to get them out of the way, if that is possible
Everone we can consider this thread closed
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pioneer4x4
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Mar 18, 2021 02:17 PM
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