Where is the best place to bet one of these 270uf caps?

 

I got mine on EBay, but there may be some local electronic stores or hobby shops that might have them. Just be sure to get NON polarized caps.

 

I just order a set of 250 100v non polarized. Hoping it wakes up the stock nav unit! Thanks for the pics for the install! Looks straight forward~!

 

Im thinking this should work.

250uF 100V Non-Polarized Capacitor | 027-370

Here is another.

220uF 100V Non-Polarized Capacitor | 027-368

First one is 250uf (i think allows more bass to come through) than the 220uf. If I am not mistaken, the bass turns off completely at 180uf if I have read correctly. So the higher the uf the less bass taken away. Someone correct me if I am wrong. I think I am going to order the 250s. 270s are said to be optimum accd to the 27 pages of thread.

 

Hey gang, just spent 45 mins reading through and unable to determine the following.
- Do you ALSO place a capacitor on the wires for the smaller tweeter in each door? So 1 or 2 capacitor (non-polarized) per door?


Thanks

 

One cap per door.

 

Do NOT put one on the tweeters. The caps limit high freq from the speakers so you would be making the tweeters useless.

 

Dang it.. and I put bass blockers from crutchfield on!

 

Since the tweeters are wired in parallel with the matching door speaker, how do you avoid it ?

 

You have that backwards.

Capacitive reactance goes DOWN as frequency goes up - the caps limit LOW FREQUENCIES, effectively blocking them, while passing high frequencies - this is WHY we put the caps in.

The ides here is to block low frequencies from the speakers in the door. ALL of the speakers in the door.

 

You don't.

 

I'm glad someone got that!

 

Bought theses online, they are much bigger than I expected. Going to shoot the exposed wire with plastidip. Next getting in the door ?.! PM with advise if you've done this and you have time. I put hooks on the end to give surface area to solder.

 

Look at post 21 of this thread. It has instructions and pictures that should guide you.

Enjoy!!

RL

 

Done, huge difference! 250 took a hair too much base from the speaker but it's good enough for now. Major base hitting from subs now! Mission accomplished! Another awesome DIY from xfireforum.

 

I still have a bunch of 270's if needed. PM me.

 

Max: Do you think the 270 caps would bring out "more" bass...as you know I just installed the Pyles subs . Would this be sufficient for that purpose without installing a separate amp for the subs? If so, and if you have a couple, would you be willing to sell them? PM me if you like...Carl

 

The caps dont' bring out the base -they supress it in the door speakers so the door speakers sound better. THEN you turn up the bass, which is blocked from the door speakers but allowed to pass to the rear ones.

So, IN EFFECT, the caps DO "allow more base" in that they allow you to turn the base up without it getting into the door speakers and ruining their fidelity.

I think 270 is a good value, I believe I put 330s in my car, but still.

 

As Mark said above, they help with "crispness" in the door speakers. You can drive them a bit harder without causing distortion from trying to reproduce frequencies (low) that they really aren't able to handle. They will help. Send me a SASE and $5. PM me for addresses and such, bud.

 

Mark: thanks for the enlightenment...as you fellows can summarize, I'm not electronically savvy at all...Thanks all ...Carl