Biggest stereo bang for the buck mod
I am repairing them (I hope!)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-Crossfire-Subwoofer-Speaker-Repair-Kit-Infinity-A193-820-04-02-Pair-/131551900672?hash=item1ea11ab400
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-Crossfire-Subwoofer-Speaker-Repair-Kit-Infinity-A193-820-04-02-Pair-/131551900672?hash=item1ea11ab400
I finally received a pair of non-polarized 330uf capacitors in the mail that I ordered via Amazon, from "Parts Express". These are 100 volt versions, and are pretty big, but worked great!
The only thing I changed from the original instructions was soldering the connections together instead of using crimp connectors. I know the crimps are a lot easier, but if you're going to do ANY kind of remotely serious work on car stereos -- you *really* should invest in a butane powered soldering iron and solder all of the connections. I just wrap them in electrical tape after that to insulate them.
I've had so many times now where a crimp connection started failing on me, causing something to malfunction or a speaker to cut in and out randomly -- and the hassle of pulling everything back out to track it down isn't worth it.
I'm not even that good at soldering, but soldering a wire to another wire, or a wire to the end of a single component like one of these capacitors is the easiest type of soldering to do. You don't have to really worry about heating something up too much and damaging it like you do when working with small components on circuit boards.
The only thing I changed from the original instructions was soldering the connections together instead of using crimp connectors. I know the crimps are a lot easier, but if you're going to do ANY kind of remotely serious work on car stereos -- you *really* should invest in a butane powered soldering iron and solder all of the connections. I just wrap them in electrical tape after that to insulate them.
I've had so many times now where a crimp connection started failing on me, causing something to malfunction or a speaker to cut in and out randomly -- and the hassle of pulling everything back out to track it down isn't worth it.
I'm not even that good at soldering, but soldering a wire to another wire, or a wire to the end of a single component like one of these capacitors is the easiest type of soldering to do. You don't have to really worry about heating something up too much and damaging it like you do when working with small components on circuit boards.
[QUOTE=RL67037;684599]I connected mine to the black wire of the door speaker and they work great.
Used non-polarized, 100V, 220uf capacitors.
I also attached them with quick-connect spade type connectors so I can change capacitance (if needed) without cutting any more wire out of the door.
Worked fine for me
RL[/QUOTE
Did you do anything to the subs??
Used non-polarized, 100V, 220uf capacitors.
I also attached them with quick-connect spade type connectors so I can change capacitance (if needed) without cutting any more wire out of the door.
Worked fine for me
RL[/QUOTE
Did you do anything to the subs??
Adding the capacitors to the front speakers reduces the lower frequencies (bass) going to the larger front speakers (tweeters are not effected as these use the high frequencies - treble). By doing this you can increase the bass level and volume on your head unit which in turn drives the rear sub woofers more giving you a better balance of bass and less muddy sound to the fronts.
I joined the club yesterday. I ordered 3 pairs of Bipolar capacitors from Mouser. 220,330,470. Installed the 330s in the doors as described with no issues. And with my newly repaired subwoofers, I too am very pleased with the results. I may try the 470s. I think the door speakers can do more bass and get a fuller sound. I was running on them exclusively with the shot surrounds on the subwoofers, and they could do a good job at low bass at moderate volumes.
I found an excellent test tune today, Jimi Hendrix's Voodoo Child. Even if you don't like it, it has some very interesting bass along with the higher pitched guitar sounds. The bass seems to float back and forth with stereo affect.
I did confirm that the factory speakers are not using the dual voice coils the typical way of getting both channels to 1 sub, just increasing the power to them.
I did confirm that the factory speakers are not using the dual voice coils the typical way of getting both channels to 1 sub, just increasing the power to them.
Adding the capacitors to the front speakers reduces the lower frequencies (bass) going to the larger front speakers (tweeters are not effected as these use the high frequencies - treble). By doing this you can increase the bass level and volume on your head unit which in turn drives the rear sub woofers more giving you a better balance of bass and less muddy sound to the fronts.
Yup, I shoulda shown you mine. The little panel in the door toward the front that you can only see with the door open. Look in there, the connector can be split to allow access to the positive speaker wire. Add the cap plug the harness back together and listen to the new sound.
I am not an electrical guy, but am a mechanical person (BSME from UT). I have read all the posts and instructions on this speaker upgrade. I am thoroughly confused as to what to order & much less how to install it. To me, the whole thing is as clear as mud. I guess I'm just not a "sparky".
I'm not trying to either be rude or post a nasty comment. I did not understand the write up.
I'm not trying to either be rude or post a nasty comment. I did not understand the write up.
see post #21 of this thread, pictures and all.
you put the 220-330 Uf cap in series with either wire going from the amp to the speakers in the doors.
This attenuates the bass and overall makes it sound much better.
Do this in both doors.
you put the 220-330 Uf cap in series with either wire going from the amp to the speakers in the doors.
This attenuates the bass and overall makes it sound much better.
Do this in both doors.
You can use :
1. solder and shrink wrap ( what I recommend )
2. wire crimps
3. wire twist thingeys.
or
4. drive over here ( 51 miles ) and I'll do it fer ya.
George
Yay - a weekend project! I found eBay and Amazon a pain to search for non-polarized 220uf (and really hard to find 270uf), ended up at Frys 3 miles from my work. $2.89 each but no shipping cost and no waiting...
FRYS.com*|*NTE link for those interested. They're rather large...nearly the size of an AA battery, but I thought the 63V upgrade would be wise over the 16V alternative, based on other discussion in this thread.
FRYS.com*|*NTE link for those interested. They're rather large...nearly the size of an AA battery, but I thought the 63V upgrade would be wise over the 16V alternative, based on other discussion in this thread.
Last edited by Kowmander; Nov 13, 2015 at 02:01 PM.
Taking advantage of the warm weather here in SC (set a record of 74F yesterday!), I installed the 'biggest bang for the buck' stereo speaker mod this morning. Used 270uF, 63v non-polarized capacitors bought off Amazon. Got 5 capacitors for $10.50. What a difference in stereo sound! Thanks to pelked1 for the write-up. Piiece of cake!
I would recommed the following to others planning on doing this upgrade, if you intend to direct connect the wiring & capacitors using a crimp connector. Place the crimp connector on the exposed wiring and then insert the capacitor connection into the other end of the crimp connector. After the crimp connector is in place, crimp both ends to secure the connection. Even with twisting the exposed wiring, it is difficult to insert the wiring into the connector if the capacitor connection is inserted first.
Later,
I would recommed the following to others planning on doing this upgrade, if you intend to direct connect the wiring & capacitors using a crimp connector. Place the crimp connector on the exposed wiring and then insert the capacitor connection into the other end of the crimp connector. After the crimp connector is in place, crimp both ends to secure the connection. Even with twisting the exposed wiring, it is difficult to insert the wiring into the connector if the capacitor connection is inserted first.
Later,
Last edited by dedwards0323; Dec 16, 2015 at 11:25 AM.


