And i actually followed Mrmiata's link and then I started doing some research..I think I may try to "break new grounds" and try amsoil don't know if you guys here have tried it but it seems to be the best oil for your money..that's if I can find it in a store of course haha

 

I'm fairly sure there are a couple members already running it.. I'm just sticking to OEM recommended since it's not like 8 bucks a quart over everything else. Even have the wife's Tahoe nursing on Mobil 1 now.. LOL. It was a Castrol fed baby before.. Easier to switch than explain how my Crossfire is so much more special etc..

 

You think like I do and that is why I use AMSOIL 5W-40 in Florida, especially the car being supercharged.

 

Whatever baby wants, baby gets. She drinks top-shelf oil, gas and tranny fluid. Just paid (~~sniff-sniff~~) $415 for oil and transmission fluid change. No, that was not a trans. flush. Was told it was some kind of mineral based fluid that it takes rather than whatever the dealership would've put in it. I plan to keep the car and plan to take good care of it........even if she is a picky little b***h when it comes to maintenance. Makes me feel like I'm not high maintenance at all compared to my car !

 

That statement makes no sence at all.IMO

The hotter the temp, the higher the viscosity of the oil.

The viscosity of the oil only goes down at start up when the engine is cold.

 

Put an oil temp gauge on your car (like I have on mine) and tell me the oil's viscosity goes UP with temperature.
Cold Engine idle: 55 psi; Hot Engine Idle: 9 psi

My next change will be to Mobile 1 5W50

 

So you're telling me the viscosity goes down as the temp goes up.?

 

Yep, oil gets thinner when heated up. Thicker when cold.

 

OK, so now you're telling me the Viscosity actually goes down as the oil heats up too?

Could we be confusing "flow characteristics" with viscosity?

 

And I thought it was magic.

a SAE 30 motor oil is the same viscosity as a 10w-30 or 5W-30 at 210° (100° C). The difference is when the viscosity is tested at a much colder temperature. For example, a 5W-30 motor oil performs like a SAE 5 motor oil would perform at the cold temperature specified, but still has the SAE 30 viscosity at 210° F (100° C) which is engine operating temperature. This allows the engine to get quick oil flow when it is started cold verses dry running until lubricant either warms up sufficiently or is finally forced through the engine oil system. The advantages of a low W viscosity number is obvious. The quicker the oil flows cold, the less dry running. Less dry running means much less engine wear.

Still sounds like magic.

.And i thought it flowed like a 0 and lubed like a 30
5u7

 

So you think that the higher the oil pressure is the better the lubrication is? The reason the oil pressure is high is because the pump cannot push the oil around so easily and it is also moving less oil, the pressure you see is back pressure.

Or what are you saying exactly?

With Chrysler/MB saying an oil with the properties of 40 grade is good at our operating temperatures you have decided somehow that 50 grade is better. Please tell.

Remember that warranty work due to improper oil usage is something that the makers try to avoid. So they gave a recommendation that you choose to ignore.

In a warmer climate you really have no need for 0W-40 oil and 5W is fine, but 5W-50?

These cars with close tolerance engines need a thinner oil to get into the gaps and provide a bed for the moving parts, using an oil that is less able to access these gaps has got to be wrong to some extent. This isn't your clapped out Chevy Vega we are talking about here.

 

To some extent, yes.

Quote:

The reason the oil pressure is high is because the pump cannot push the oil around so easily and it is also moving less oil, the pressure you see is back pressure.

Agreed - and that is why I do not push my car AT ALL until my pressure has dropped - that is to say, the engine has heated up and the oil is flowing.

So, no, I do not simply believe that a higher pressure is all there is to it.

Quote:

With Chrysler/MB saying an oil with the properties of 40 grade is good at our operating temperatures you have decided somehow that 50 grade is better. Please tell.

Remember that warranty work due to improper oil usage is something that the makers try to avoid. So they gave a recommendation that you choose to ignore.

In a warmer climate you really have no need for 0W-40 oil and 5W is fine, but 5W-50?

It gets VERY warm here, but with the fan mod I had done, my engine does not get as hot as it did, I do concede that.

And I am very **** about this - I would never put ANY oil in there that MB did not have on either 229.3 or 229.5 - Mobile 1 5W50 is on 229.3 (even shows up on the bottle).

5W50 IS approved for these engines.

Quote:

These cars with close tolerance engines need a thinner oil to get into the gaps and provide a bed for the moving parts, using an oil that is less able to access these gaps has got to be wrong to some extent. This isn't your clapped out Chevy Vega we are talking about here.

No, and it isnt' my 262 CID V6 from my 1993 GMC truck, either. THAT engine specified 5W20, and it got it - for the first 12,000 miles. I then went to 15W40 until around 150,000. I THEN went to 20W50 and sold the truck before 250,000. The current owner runs 30W in it. On my birthday this spring, Ed sent me a picture of the odometer, it turned 404,000 on the way home from work a few days earlier.

The truck has had water pumps, a distributor, heater core, u joints, ball joints, alternators and a clutch replaced. The engine itself just keeps running.



But it really all goes to 229.3 and 229.5 - there are even two 10W and one 15W oils on 229.3 !!!!
What say you to THAT ??

 

Perhaps. Time to call my brother (the retired GM engineer).

 

The definitive answer:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...oved-oils.html

 

I would say that an approved and preferred oil that met those standards would be any 0W-40 on the list.

In your climate a 5W-40 would be OK I guess, but not preferred.

 

I love Mobil 1 oil, so I won't get into the brand argument. I use either the 0w-40 or 5w-40 period. You can't always find the zero....but 5w seems to always be on someone's shelf... I would think any name brand synthetic in those numbers would be fine. But, Mobil 1 has been a proven winner in all my cars since the early 80's and I am staying with it....

 

There's a long extensive list of MB recommended oils for the 3.2 engine. Use any one of them you like. I've always used Mobil 1 0-40 and it's one of Mobil 1's better multi-viscosity oils if bill the oil guy is real. Because of my climate and car abusage I may switch to Mobil 1 5-50, if I can find it. Also on the recommended list BTW.

MB 229.3 - Multigrade engine oils (Specification 229.3) - Mercedes-Benz Specifications for Operating Fluids

Les

 

Here ya go, only place I could find it:
The Lubricant Store - 106035

I paid $140.36 with shipping for 18 quarts, that was $38.61 for six quarts plus shipping, I see the price is up to $49.70 for six quarts now.

I should have bought 20 cases.....

 

Walmart has it .... sometimes. Most of my racing buddies use 15-50 (non Crossfire) brands like Mobil 1, Valvoline, Motul, Brad Penn, Jose Gibs, Shaefer etc. The old air cooled Porsche swears that Shaefer oil lowered his oil temperatures by 20º. I don't know. I road race or I wouldn't think of it.

Les

 

What ever happened to the days of 20w in the winter and 30w in the summer....lol..... So simple back then....3k oil changes...lol... I change mine every year....put less than 5k on the roadster a year, and the poor coupe hasn't had but 2k all year.....