Convertible top won't open :(
1) Put the top down manually with engine running, if it will go UP but not DOWN, then the issue is in the divider switch in the trunk OR the top open switch over the passenger's head.
If the top will not go UP or DOWN, we have more to do so see 2).
2) Is the car showing other odd symptoms? That is, does the wing go up at times it should not? Are there issues with the doors locking or unlocking in response to the key fob buttons or in response to pushing the lock button on the console? Do you have any warning lights on the instrument panel (battery light, BAS/ESP, etc.)? Are you trying to put the top up or down without the engine running (if so, just slap yourself)? Any "YES" to ANY of these questions will lead us to the answer. If the answer is "NO" to all, we must dive deeper.
If you want to understand system operation with the least reading, including where the sensors are, read this:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...p-sensors.html
Hello Pizza Guy, Thank you for replying, I have been all over the forum and watching your video and Kalus' video on the top. I bought my XFire used from an elderly gentleman for my daughter's first car which she is in love with. I did check the hydraulic fluid reservoir and it is just below the minimum fill line. So I cannot put the top down manually as I do not have the tool. I checked all through the car and it isn't in there so I ordered on from Amazon and it should be here soon. So I will have to update after I have put the top down manually.
I am having other issues as I installed a new stereo screen and a backup camera. I also swapped the headlight bulbs for LED bulbs. The LED headlight bulbs cause the dash to give off the "light is burnt out" indicator on the dash when the headlights are turned on, but other than that there are no other warning lights. I also think installing the stereo gave me a parasitic battery draw somewhere because I had to jump-start the car a few times now. but the issue with the top started before the car went dead.
I am having other issues as I installed a new stereo screen and a backup camera. I also swapped the headlight bulbs for LED bulbs. The LED headlight bulbs cause the dash to give off the "light is burnt out" indicator on the dash when the headlights are turned on, but other than that there are no other warning lights. I also think installing the stereo gave me a parasitic battery draw somewhere because I had to jump-start the car a few times now. but the issue with the top started before the car went dead.
If it is below the minimum line, add fluid. There may not be enough pressure to move the top. Be sure to use the correct fluid. I'm glad you ordered the tool but all you need is a thin crescent wrench and an Allen wrench. Have you been using the search feature at the L/H top of the page?
Index of Crossfire problems and repairs - CrossfireForum - The Chrysler Crossfire and SRT6 Resource
Index of Crossfire problems and repairs - CrossfireForum - The Chrysler Crossfire and SRT6 Resource
If it is below the minimum line, add fluid. There may not be enough pressure to move the top. Be sure to use the correct fluid. I'm glad you ordered the tool but all you need is a thin crescent wrench and an Allen wrench. Have you been using the search feature at the L/H top of the page?
Index of Crossfire problems and repairs - CrossfireForum - The Chrysler Crossfire and SRT6 Resource
Index of Crossfire problems and repairs - CrossfireForum - The Chrysler Crossfire and SRT6 Resource
Yes ZERacer ive been searching and reading through different forum posts. I saw people talking about just using a thin wrench, grinding down a 10mm wrench, where/how to buy and OEM one etc. I was able to find one with a mercedes part number for like 40 dollars. I was planning on running to the autoparts store to buy some fluid to fill the reservoir. I watched the video about where the switchs are but i was still having problems finding the switch over the passenger head area though
Top switch pics post number 7
So update i found out what killed my battery it was the trunk light it stayed on evern after the truck was closed. I took my crossfire to a car audio shop thinking I had screwed up the wiring with the deck or the back up camera but they found out it was the trunk light. So i just need to figure out what sensor controls that and then maybe my top will go down. I figure the car for some reason thinks the trunk isnt closed all the way or something based on the light staying on.
So update i found out what killed my battery it was the trunk light it stayed on even after the truck was closed. I took my crossfire to a car audio shop thinking I had screwed up the wiring with the deck or the back up camera but they found out it was the trunk light. So i just need to figure out what sensor controls that and then maybe my top will go down. I figure the car for some reason thinks the trunk isnt closed all the way or something based on the light staying on.
PizzaGuy the all knowing. Thanks for replying. Its an 07 Roadster. I just got my convertible tool from Amazon today so im going to try to put it down manually when i back from the store.
So open and close the trunk while watching voltage on that pin, if it never changes when the trunk is opened then closed, then that switch is the issue. The top will not operate if that switch is indicating the trunk is not closed.
Hey Pizza Guy thank you again for the help. I searched the forum and found this post. https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...p-clp-ssm.html
I dont know how to compare what you stated C1-pin 13 to the diagrams in the post and im trying to figure out how im going to pin this out while opening and closing the trunk? Because isnt this module the one that is in the rear wheel well in the trunk?
I dont know how to compare what you stated C1-pin 13 to the diagrams in the post and im trying to figure out how im going to pin this out while opening and closing the trunk? Because isnt this module the one that is in the rear wheel well in the trunk?
Go here:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ollection.html
Download the service manual.
Go to the connector pinout pages in the wiring chapter.
Look for "Central Locking Pump" connector C1.
That will show you the pinout of the connector.
Rip the trim from the trunk.
Rig your meter up by sicking the positive probe in the connector with pin 13.
Set up your phone's camera for video record, place it in the trunk to see the meter face, and close the trunk lid.
The video will show you what the meter read when the lid was closed.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ollection.html
Download the service manual.
Go to the connector pinout pages in the wiring chapter.
Look for "Central Locking Pump" connector C1.
That will show you the pinout of the connector.
Rip the trim from the trunk.
Rig your meter up by sicking the positive probe in the connector with pin 13.
Set up your phone's camera for video record, place it in the trunk to see the meter face, and close the trunk lid.
The video will show you what the meter read when the lid was closed.
So i had a shop read the codes for the top. They said the car is throwing the following codes:
9919 power top switch open to ground
9009 power top control module low voltage
9930 unknown top position
Rear bow switch sense circuit short to ground
they also toalsoe the trunk light did in fact turn off when the trunk was closed. The did adjust the latch catch on the trunk they told me they moved it up a little bit. I also added fluid to the reservoir.
9919 power top switch open to ground
9009 power top control module low voltage
9930 unknown top position
Rear bow switch sense circuit short to ground
they also toalsoe the trunk light did in fact turn off when the trunk was closed. The did adjust the latch catch on the trunk they told me they moved it up a little bit. I also added fluid to the reservoir.
Just to be clear:
You do not move the top without the engine running. (In case it's been too long since I said that.)
You do not read codes without the engine running.
You do not trust any codes/results without the engine running.
In cases where the engine is running, if I got codes like that, I'd measure the voltage across the battery, it better be 13.5 to 14.4. I doubt they did this, because most "shops" and most "mechanics" know almost NOTHING about electricity or electronics.
You do not move the top without the engine running. (In case it's been too long since I said that.)
You do not read codes without the engine running.
You do not trust any codes/results without the engine running.
In cases where the engine is running, if I got codes like that, I'd measure the voltage across the battery, it better be 13.5 to 14.4. I doubt they did this, because most "shops" and most "mechanics" know almost NOTHING about electricity or electronics.
Last edited by pizzaguy; Jan 15, 2024 at 05:41 PM.
Pizza Guy, thank you again for the insight. I dont know if the car was running when they took the codes. I used the tool and put the top down manually. Then magically the top started working again last night. So when you said to manually putting it up and down it would reset the module. Thank you again for all the help. I wish i could buy you a beer man.
PizzaGuy, Thank you so much for all fo the help. I have no idea if the shop verified the codes or if the engine was running. At any rate, I put the top down manually and then it proceeded to work just fine.
Also, disable the electric trunk lock as soon as you can, it's something most of us do so we dont get locked out:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ispreloading=1
GO TO POST 73!!
Given that the LED blinks a lot AND the TCM is not telling the BCM to lower the windows, my guesses are:
Items 1 and 2 can happen more-or-less together. If the car will start and run (without a jump start or battery booster) then I'd try this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hnd2y89ITf8
Try what I have suggested. If it gets you no where - then take all the trim out of the trunk and gain access to the wheel wells. Inspect for water damage or rodent damage.
- The battery has been allowed to go dead a time or two, and the battery is weak/bad. (Please do not tell me that the car starts fine - that is not the point.)
- The TCM has lost it's mind and synchronization - this happens at times - keep reading.
- Someone has ignorantly 'jump started' the car without paying attention to what they were doing and destroyed the top module.
- The car has been stored outside OR was on the trailer in heavy rain with a top/back window not sealing properly - the wheel wells are full of water and the Top Module (and maybe even security module) are under water and destroyed.
- The car has been stored some time where rodents can get into it and the wiring of the car has been chewed.
Items 1 and 2 can happen more-or-less together. If the car will start and run (without a jump start or battery booster) then I'd try this:
- Start car and let it idle.
- Perform the manual top lowering and raising procedure - going thru the entire procedure all the way - this can re-sync the top's electronic controller with all the sensors. The engine must be running while this is happening so the TCM can watch the sensors change state.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hnd2y89ITf8
Try what I have suggested. If it gets you no where - then take all the trim out of the trunk and gain access to the wheel wells. Inspect for water damage or rodent damage.
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