My top won't go up or down.
When I release the top, the windows go down and nothing happens.
I have checked the divider switch by confirming that the switch activates the warning beeps when disengaged. The same for the pneumatic trunk lock. When the trunk is unlatched, the warning beeps.
The hydraulic pump is working and charged.
However, the electric lock is not engaging and I am stuck as to what to do at this point.
I have researched the forum to find any similar problems but I am unable to find anything.
I have tried to manually raise and lower the top to manually reset the system to no avail.
The car is garage kept so I have no water issues
Can anybody out there suggests a solution or direct me to any posts in the forum that can direct me to a solution?
Thanks for any responses.

 

See post #9.

Top inoperable - where to start? - CrossfireForum - The Chrysler Crossfire and SRT6 Resource

 

This is the sequence with the top up and you want to put it down:
1) Turn D handle, the latch retainer switch opens, signalling the PTCM (Power Top Control Module) that you have unlatched the top.
The PTCM notifies the BCM (Body Control Module) over CAN BUS B to lower windows. The BCM responds with an "OK" on the windows and starts to stream the speed of the vehicle continuously to the PTCM.
From your post, we know that the PTCM and BCM are alive and talking to one another.

2) You press the button. The PTCM activates the electric trunk lock and simultaneously asks the CPL/SSM (Central Locking Pump/Security System Module) if the trunk is showing latched.
Once the electric trunk lock shows closed AND the CLP/SSM signals that the trunk is latched, the PTCM checks to for confirmation that the Top Open switch over the passenger's head and the divider switch are both closed, indicating that the divider is up and the top is open and pulled away from the windshield frame.

If the above is true, and if a valid speed indication is being presented, the PTCM starts the pump and the hydraulic sequence begins for top lowering.

ANY of these will stop things from happening:
If the CLP/SSM is out of order/dead/wet, it will not respond properly, the top will not move and the beeper sounds.
If the speed of the vehicle is over 9mph, the top will not move (or will stop moving) and the beeper sounds.
If there is no indication of vehicle speed, the top will not move and the beeper sounds.
If the CLP/SSM does not see that the trunk is fully closed, the top will not move and beeper sounds.

 

Also:

My top won't go up or down.
When I release the top, the windows go down and nothing happens. If the windows go down, you can't say "nothing happens", as you read above, this alone helps to tell us that most of the system is working.

I have checked the divider switch by confirming that the switch activates the warning beeps when disengaged. I have no clue what that means. How did you perform this test?

The same for the pneumatic trunk lock. That lock has NOTHING to do with the Power Top System.

When the trunk is unlatched, the warning beeps. Of course it does, as per the design.

The hydraulic pump is working and charged. You said "Nothing happens". How can you say the pump works when you say the pump will not run ("Nothing happens")? And there is no "charge' in the pump, it builds pressure when it runs and when the cycle completes, all pressure is released. If you do not complete the cycle, the pressure is automatically released after the ten minute timer expires.

However, the electric lock is not engaging and I am stuck as to what to do at this point. The answer is a question: WHY is the PTCM not activating the electric lock? Is the lock solenoid bad? (It's been happened before.) Sounds like the PTCM does not like SOMETHING and is not even trying to lock the lock because there is no reason to lock it - until the PTCM is happy, it's not going to lock that lock. Your issue is this: With everything working, why is the PTCM not happy? What does it see it does not like or what is it being told by the CLP/SSM?

On that note: One of the reasons people cant fix their own top, is they do not learn how the systems work together first. What that means is: MANY top issues are not top issues.

Are all warning lights on the dash turning off as soon as the engine starts (The BAS/ESP and Battery light especially)?
Does the wing deploy at 60 and retract about 35?
Can you tell me that there are NO other warning beeps when driving the car?

A "no" to ANY of these questions must be fixed FIRST; often, the top issue goes away when these items are fixed.

I have researched the forum to find any similar problems but I am unable to find anything. Search again, you have the classic "my top wont move" issue. MOST of us with a Roadster have had this happen.

I have tried to manually raise and lower the top to manually reset the system to no avail. If you did not do it three times with the motor running and with a hex key to do it completely, you did not do it at all. If you DID do it right, then loss of sync is not the issue and we have a sensor or hall effect switch mis-behaving or the brake controller/BCM is lying to the CPL/SSM about the vehicle speed.

The car is garage kept so I have no water issues Famous last words, if your mind is that closed, you will never fix this, you have arrived at what may be an invalid conclusion. If you did not tear the trim out and LOOK AT THE PUMP WIRING, you cannot say what you just said. It can take YEARS for water to trickle down to the CLP/SSM. If the car got wet three years ago on a trip, you may have a destroyed CLP/SSM. THREE of FOUR times that I worked on an "unfixable top", it was the CLP/SSM and it had been wet. One couple owned the car TWO YEARS and one day, the top quit. They'd never allowed the car to get wet. But someone had................

Here is the forum's best (actually, the world's best) explanation of the top's operation:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...p-sensors.html

 

Moved to Roadster Forum, re-direct expires in one week.

 

Thanks for the response.
I have checked the divider switch by confirming that the switch activates the warning beeps when disengaged. I have no clue what that means. How did you perform this test?
When I release the divider the warning beeps start and when I replace the divider, the warning beep stops. To me, this indicates the switch is working.

Are all warning lights on the dash turning off as soon as the engine starts (The BAS/ESP and Battery light especially)?
Does the wing deploy at 60 and retract about 35?
Can you tell me that there are NO other warning beeps when driving the car?
Everything is working as it should. I have also manually raised and lowered the top 3 times with the hex key in sequence a few times with no luck.
I have researched the forum to find any similar problems but I am unable to find anything. Search again, you have the classic "my top wont move" issue. MOST of us with a Roadster have had this happen
I have read and digested most of the posts regarding top problems and find them extremely inciteful, especially from Pizza Guy.

I will tear apart the insulation and check the leads for water damage on the CLP/SSM this weekend.
What I find interesting is the fact that the hydraulic pump is activated before the electric lock is supposed to engage. In my case, the pump is working but the lock is not engaged. Based on the sequence you described, the pump should never have started.
Be that as it may, I will let you know what I find this weekend.

 

Okay, I have pulled the CPL/SSM and checked all the leads. There is no indication of corrosion or water damage on any of the contact points. Back to where we started, I guess. All the other systems, such as locks, lights, etc. are all working.

 

I got your message, but prefer to answer in public, as this helps others as well.



I still think the trunk lock is not locking because the PTCM is not commanding it to lock because it sees somethat it does not like.
HOWEVER, your remark that the pump starts contradicts this, the pump WILL NOT START if the electric lock does not show "locked". It is important to know that, for years now, we have been modifying our cars so that the electric lock activates and tells the PTCM it has locked, but in reality it doesnt lock because we take the cam off the end of the actuator so the lock can THINK it has locked, but it hasn't. THis is to keep from being locked out of your own trunk when the power top system gets hung up part way thru the cycle. It would be a good idea to verify if this has been done, as this could be the cause for the confusion. Take the fuse box cover off, driver's end of dash. If on the underside it is written: "Lock disabled done" or "Trunk lock mod" or "Cam removed", then you know the mod was done and THAT is why the lock is not locking.

If nothing is written, you can LOOK and verify if the mod was done. Go to post #73 in THIS thread to see how to do that:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-jammed-4.html

On the PTCM (Power top control module) connector P1 pins 21 and 22 are the lock indicator pins. YOu can determine the current status of the lock by checking with a voltmeter:

Pin 21 - zero volts when locked, 5 to12 volts when not locked.
Pin22 - zero volts when not locked, 5 to 12 volts when locked.

My big issue here is your indication that the pump runs. If it runs, what is the fluid level in the tank? Low fluid that is not TOO low will not prevent the pump from running, but the pump won't be able to get much done. The fact you say the pump does run makes me think you have a low fluid situation.

But again, you say when you hit the button "nothing happens" then you say the pump runs. I'm having a hard time understanding.

Meanwhile I will be hospitalized tomorrow and am prepping for that. I will be absent maybe till Tuesday.

 

Let me give a little history with the top issue. Whenever I tried to lower or raise the top, I assumed that nothing happened. It was dead and there were no warning beeps indicating any type of fault. I never attempted to lower or raise the top manually right after these attempts. No reason, just didn't do it. A couple of months ago, I tried the top again and the same result. I then went to lower the top manually right after that attempt and I struggled to get the boot down and realized the top's hydraulics had been activated, which told me that the pump had started. The pump is extremely quiet and with the engine running I cannot hear the pump. This was a total surprise to me. Even after the attempt, the electric lock was not activated and I could open the trunk. After about ten minutes, the pressure released and I could manually move the top again.
Also, I am the second owner of the car and the electric lock always worked before. It has never been modified. I know that for sure. My next plan of attack is to pull the lock and do the modification as described by removing the cam. I am hoping that maybe I can find that the lock has jammed somehow.
The hydraulic fluid is full and there is no sign of leakage anywhere.