riddle me this fellow modders. i have installed the woody supercooler and separated the cooling system from the engine.
now while running the car the i/c system flows great and stays cool to the touch. problem is now my engine temp is running approx 100 degrees C.
before it would run around 80 C.
any input as to why its running hotter and how can i cool this beast back down to 80 C or so?

 

does the Heat exchanger block the entire radiator? also is there any space between the HE and Radiator? if they up agaist each other it could be restricting airflow, ideally you would like to beable to stick two fingers inbetween them. You could always try adjusting the fan triggers so your not getting so ht while at idle.

 

exactly what i was thinking...

or...did you route your coolant overflow to your supercooler instead of leaving it hooked up to your radiator.

There is enough volume in the supercooler to not need more overflow than is in the hoses, but the radiator volume probably lends itself to needing the stock overflow tank to help circulate more... just a thought.

 

How would you go about adjusting the fan triggers???

 

Your engine temps will rise when running a supercooler and iso system. The supercooler impedes airflow to the radiator, which ordinarily would reach it when running a stock H/E or LET H/E. The iso system only adds to the reduction in engine cooling capacity. Since we separate them in efforts of reducing IAT, it adversely increases engine temps slightly.

Prior to adding my supercooler and iso system the max engine temp reached was 201 F, needle resting on the bottom half of the mid line or below it mostly. After the install, the max engine temp has been 209 F and the needle is consistently mid line or above.

This is why we need a lower T-Stat and LET fan programming, at least.

 

My Engine Temp is NOT higher with the NW Supercooler installed on my SLK32. There is enough Air coming into the Engine-Radiator on my car. 100 Degrees Celsius is too much under normal driving...

Maybe something with Coolant Separation is not correct for example a kinked hose or are all hoses connected in the correct place?

 

Okay, I misunderstood your original post .

::Edit:: Thanks bombsquad56, quick reply gets me all the time.

 

You understood correctly. The post above you is a different slk32

 

Here we go again and Ill try to remember the details in order.

The stock stat is like 97 degrees C C C thats about 100 and boiling here in the colonies, 212.

I designed and posted a low temp stat that uses american stat from stant; one of the best stat people. It is 180 degrees and that is as COLD as you can run it in year round weather - believe me or find out why on your own dime.

I made a 172 stat also and it is good in summer but I have gotten too lazy to swap biannually so Iam 180 degrees now.

I sent one to needswings so he could evaluate it and maybe start providing them. Yall can beat him up for them as he has caught up with the earlier release of the super cooler and my effort of a low restriction (Super) oil separator.

Currently he is nearing the development cycle of my ( Super) pulley kit that slows the idlers and makes them last plus loads of other benefits. I dont choose to get paid for this other than supplies and so I can maintain some isolation and separation [from the work and shipping issues] so Iam happy.

So go to rob and ring his bell 'nicely' about the stat and such if you want to have lower operating engine temps. The 180 degree OPENING stat is a sweet fix and I have been using it since last autocross season. Previously to the super cooler that I wrote up and designed, I had big time heat problems for running at wot for a solid minute on the course ( and off the course I sadly must admit to ) built up heat the 1/4 milers never thought about.


NOW CHAPTER TWO:

THe tstat fix will not make the engine run cooler - - - - in a parking lot. The engine fan will still operate under the computer control which wants that 97 degree C temp. So sitting, the temp gauge does not move..........

When your on the road the forward motion will blast so much air thru the stack of heat exchangers and radiators that the readings will fall about 1 tick mark depending on your steady speed and ambient temperature. If you had NO stat the engine would be really angry for the passages are DESIGNED for a stat that circulates with-in the block until the correct temp is achieved ---- then it opens and directs the water into the radiator. With no stat the temp can vary all over the place and end up throwing fault codes like engine below proper temperature and such.

Yo need a stat, the lower one works in Virginia just fine and I posted the temp readings in a few threads I started. Photos in the gallery for the interested ones to gaze at.


When done ill post my results, My dyno date finally worked out and I was running up to 1.9 BAR of boost. sadly the power was down to 330 or so. I gotta understand what it was trying to say to me. have to analyze the charts yet.

Now whats a BAR??????? This is your homework assignment and no sharing answers...

WEEKEND


WEEKEND



WEEKEND



WEEKEND



WEEKEND

by and for

W DY

 

im not seeing how the supercooler is impedeing flow. the is a space between the 2 radiaitors and flow is good. as for cooling capacity the oem h/e was so small it couldnt hold much more than a qt or so.
my oem overflow is only used for the engine now as the h/e runs so cool no overflow is needed.

woody does rob have the 180 tstat? i know you run 1 and im thinking that will help. the temps ran just undr 100 degrees C on a trip of 120 miles. had some blasts up to 130 mph and more than a couple smokey burnouts. never went higher and during the evening dropped to just above the 80 mark.
even sitting in traffic the temp doesnt go above 100. i would just like to see the temp around 80 C

 

I have a super cooler and iso system, I also had a LET H/E and obviously a OEM H/E.

The same amount of air flow is NOT reaching the radiator with a super cooler, compared to a LET or OEM H/E. I'm not saying the air flow is bad, just stating air flow is slightly reduced with a super cooler in the original path of the radiator. This slight reduction in air flow translates to a slight increase in engine temps, 2-4 F over LET/ OEM. The super cooler pros out weigh the slight increase in engine temps, no question.

Thats my 411 .

 

check for air in the system....

 

that was my thought jake. can you shed some light on the proper bleeding of the engine system? my h/e system seems to have bleed out fine but i dont know how to bleed the engine coolant.

 

Are you using the 1/2" foam between the radiator and the H/E to keep them from rubbing? I'm using the Super Cooler from DJ, He uses welded on tabs to mount the super cooler to the Factory H/E mounts and you really don't the the foam or the Zip-Ties. I did add a 1" X 1" strip on each corner just to make sure no rubbing occurred I'm getting plenty of air from the sides and top so My temps. haven't changed. Living in New Orleans it gets very hot, today it's 97 F 100% humidity YUCK!!!

I am noticing the fan running maybe 15% more in traffic but it will cool down sufficiently enough cycle on and off. I just had major modifications done and haven't seen much of a difference with additional temps.
I might modify my stock Stat (search on the forum) you drill 4 small holes providing circulation before the stat opens. One last question... What size hoses are you using and how did you isolate the systems.

Cheers and good luck
Collin
the Crazy Cajun

 

yes i used foam on the sides and at the bottom were the h/e meets the frame. unfortunately the slk32 wont allow enough room to use the oem h/e mounts that dj made the tabs for. there just isnt enough room. so i removed them and went the tie wrap route ala woody. there is space between the h/e and the oem radiator but its very tight.

im using the factory hoses. under the resovoir is a hose that goes to the T on the return s/c line. i used rubber female plugs and plugged that line and the overflow line at the y on the s/c. i simply cut the factory hoses to fit the inlet and return lines, running the inlet under the headlight housing to the h/e.

ill do a search for the tstat mod. my temps arent critical but maybe 10 degrees hotter than oem setup. but the s/c runs tons cooler!

 

How did you do with the power steering modification? any Issues? I,m now using 3/4" hose from the pump to the H/E the other line is stock. If I find the link to the Stat mod I'll forward it to you. I hope you post some pics when your done.

Collin

 

i havent started the p/s line yet. i have a sl55 intake coming along with a c3 pulley. when it all comes in ill do everything at once along with the diy wrap kit
the h/e does such a great job cooling no bigger hoses were needed.

 

Sorry a little behind on getting to this reply! Waldig at 1.9 Bar (1.0 Bar = accepted by Europe as approximately an atmosphere of pressure) you would be pushing almost 28 lbs boost at STP. That's impressive! But considering the issues with intake charge heat and knock (at that kind of boost) could your power issues have to do with ignition pull back by the ecu, due to knock detection? Having maintained several WWII era super charged aircraft, boost and consequental knock turned high performance engines into steel and aluminum scrap. Especially when pushing the envelope down on the deck, i.e. pylon racing. I am curious as to what you find!

 

When I had the freedom to see the boost gauge it showed up to 25 PSIG and I wondered about that as I ALSO tried stacked 178 code 3 pulleys and got 25 real fast , belt slip and crazy power for the BRIEF time I tried it.

The 1.9 BAR had me asking the tech to verify the readings more than once. Ill post in a write up of the 181 soon. Yeah the boost had to be pulling the power back for self protection. In MY NEW manifold design I already installed spuds for water + what ever injection before I even had them on the car. More to follow.Woody