Hello everyone!

I'm so happy (in some respects) to finally be an owner of a 2005 SRT 6 coupe with 60k on it! I'm still trying to understand and get use to the autostick, but I'm sure once I get the hang of it, I'll really start having fun :P

The sad part of my story is; I only got to drive it for 72 hours before I felt two slips while cruising on the freeway and it resulted in a CEL. Now it's back at the dealership (Encinitas Ford in Southern California) and I'm sweating bullets (first car payment ever; I'm 28 and always paid for large items with cash) and don't know what to expect. After lurking around the forums, TSB's, service manuals (thanks for all that info guys and gals) I have almost removed the idea that the actual trannie is broken. Maybe fluid levels or an electrical/solenoid, but I could sit here all day and drive myself mad with my under-educated speculations. Any insight or stories of similar mechanical issues are always welcome, but I need to dig around here a bit more

Once/if this issue is resolved; I absolutely cannot wait to meet up with a few srt's in my area

 

If you have a CEL, have you attempted to retrieve any error codes?
Describe the "slip" a bit more. The SRTs I/C pump failure can feel like a slip or a surge as the S/C clutch engages/disengages.

RL

 

See, now you did it. Got me thinkin' and recallin' the scenario :P

I guess describing it as a slip may not be correct. The "feeling" was as if power (engine, not electrical) dramatically decreased for all of 1-1.5 seconds while cruising around 75-80 on the freeway in drive. This occurred twice, 20 minutes apart, at about halfway through a 1 hour drive.

Now that I think about it; this is my first force induction vehicle, so I guess it may be related to the supercharger (like belt slippage?).

Sadly, I went straight to the dealer in the morning and handed it right over to them before I could be a big boy and pull the codes =\


The lights did not dim; the rpms did not sound like they were fluctuating, but I was also singing at the top of my lungs so I can't say for 100% ;p

 

First, make friends here. Some of these guys know the crossfire better than any dealer mechanic.

Andtheir advice is freee.

Second, Check you battery connections. Andthe age of your battery.

My Srt6 did that after purchase. It was the Negative battery cable.

No Stealership required.

Third, whatever your Dealer service guy says, hold off. Ask for the codes and post them here. The gearheads will sort it for you . Could save you big bucks.

These are quirky cars and they are also orphans. Worth the difficulties with mechanics but,,,, be careful.

 

That is a classic sign of an I/C pump failure. The S/C has an electronic clutch that will disengage if it's not being cooled properly. When it engages/disengages you will feel the car surge. The fix is fairly easy and not too expensive if you are somewhat handy and do it yourself. This pump failure will normally not trigger a CEL so you may have a separate problem there. Have the dealer get the codes for the CEL so the smart guys on here can chime in and help you out. They may be able to save you some $$ in diagnostic and repair charges.

A good rule of thumb, now that you are here, is if you experience something weird and your car is still running and can make it home, check here first before heading to the dealer. :-)

RL

 

Thanks a ton you two; I'll call the dealer first thing tomorrow and post them up.

My experience has only been modifying N/A 240sx engines and k-cars (first car was a 1987 Chrysler Town and Country station wagon with cream paint and wood side paneling; family has owned a total of 14 k-frame cars hahahaha).

 

Nothing wrong with K frame cars. i had several

Best was a Mark cross '82 lebaron. gave it away with 208 miles on it in 1997. Sucker is still running around Indianola IOWA.

 

I just got the call back; here are the few that they pulled the following:
P2300
P2315
P2316

 

Those are all related to primary ignition circuit coil low or high.

P2300 = "Ignition Coil "A" Primary Control Circuit Low"
P2315 = "Ignition Coil "F" Primary Control Circuit Low"
P2316 = "Ignition Coil "F" Primary Control Circuit High

First thing I'd do is clear these P codes and see if they come back.
If they do, then you might be looking at connection / ground issues or a faulty ECM.

At any rate, they do not seem to be related to the transmission issue.

 

Like I said, check the battery connections.

I had the exact same issues on my SRT6.

If I'm wrong, no problem
If I'm right ,,,,cheap fix.

 

They called to give me another teaser; apparently there is a leak coming from an electrical component that relates to the transmission.

But the great thing here is y'all have given me terrific starting places to QA and double check when I do my bi-weekly car checklist ^_^

 

Odd, that is not what the code says

hi voltage, low voltage spikes suggest electrical connections.

Oh well.

Listen to the force Luke.

 

I wonder if the leak could be from this common problem transmission connector?

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-ta-daaaa.html

Also, I would check the battery connections like Franc suggested and if you still have the white Varta battery, get a new one before you get stranded. But I feel the tranny "slip" that you are feeling is the S/C kicking in and out which would be the I/C pump needing replaced. I felt the same thing when I drove my new (to me) SRT back from OK City to Wichita (3 hour drive, approx). About every 20 or 30 minutes, the car would feel like it would "surge" forward (S/C kicking off). I never felt it when it would kick back in, but I definitely felt it when it shut off. Had no idea what it was until I found this forum.

As far as the error codes and what caused them, I am in the dark on that. I like Alaxfire's advice and have them cleared to see if they come up again (after the battery has been checked/tightened/replaced if needed).

I think you have multiple conditions here by coincidence.

RL

 

Yes, the transmission connector. On the SRT6 this is a chronic issue. But I have yet to hear of anyone having these symptoms.

Normaly a pool of fluid on the garage floor is your only indication of that failure.


There may very well be a leaking connector in Parralell Ice's tranny. But I doubt it is the cause of this intermittent power drop. However, the guys at the dealer, doing the best they can, Are likely unaware of this car and it's history.

This group here collectively most likely know more about the little orphan we love than all of the "professional" mechanics in all of Chryslerdoom. While I do not count myself to be amoung these enlightened gearheads, I feel fortunate to be able to count on them for support.

I am grateful to be counted as one of their friends. (OK, maybe that is a little forward, Some of them barely tolerate me)

You can benefit greatly from their advice.

 

You all have been most excellent; really giving me good food for thought while the dealership is doing their diag. Don't get me wrong; I don't hold any of this against them and they have been amazing by placing me in a rental and fronting the deposit as well.

Tomorrow I am going down there to add the 3 year warranty onto the car and by that time they believe they should have more solid information to give me. My apologies if I'm being like CNN over here (constant updates).

 

No problem. We all have the same precious babies in our garage.

And this bunch truly shares your pain.

Get that thing fixed and join the local group where you are. You have a good group out there in S Cal. Try and make it down to The Dragon meet (Smoky Mountains TN.) this spring or next fall. Or maybe Dallas Texas for CAA#4.

You will be amazed at the freindships this lil' red headed step child has created.

 

Are you kidding ? We all LOVE constant updates, it's those guys that post an issue, possible solutions are posted and we never hear from them again that chap our collective a**.

 

I would not do that (not that you asked for the advice of some anonymous guy on the internet). These cars do'nt belong at a Chrysler dealership.

Again, I take mine to a local, independent shop owned by three car-nut brothers, one of whom has a wife with an SLK320 (our car's chassis/engine/electronics) and while I've only needed them twice, they have never gouged me AND I got my car back the same day, both times.

Also, if you hang around here, you will learn a lot about your car and can do what many of us do when we need something done, we rely on this bunch. THEN, take the car in and essentially tell them what we think it is, what we want them to do - and things go smoother than at a dealership.

Anyway, after reading stressed-out posts here for 3 1/2 years, that is my advice to you. YOu are driving an orphan, the "red headed step-child" of the Chrysler family. You car is a Chrysler in name only, it's an SLK320 with a different body, built in a German factory owned by Karmann - with some Chrysler chrome on each end of it.

100% agreement with posts 16 and 17

 

No.... it's just that no one has the GUTS to ride down Hellbender Hill with you...

 

Pizza has some good points about buying a dealership warranty. If you buy a warranty, try to get one that doesn't tie you to a dealer. When I bought mine, I had no idea how sound the car was with 85K on the clock and had never owned a car with a super charger so I bought a 3 year/36,000 mile drive train warranty through AUL. I am only required to take my car to the dealer if I am within 60 miles of them. Since I bought the car in OK City and live in Wichita, I can take my car anywhere to have warranty work done, I just need to have the warranty company approve the repair prior to it being done. It saved me $800+ when I had to have my engine mounts replaced. Just my thoughts on a warranty for these cars.

RL