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The cut in the air supply aluminum tubing from the auxillary air pump , my welder said couldn't be filled, so, I found a piece of heater hose that is tight and has almost the same bend in it and I am hoping to extend it across the cut and clamp it temporarily until I get the correct part to replace it with. I'll look for a SLK32 vin to try the link for parts 180.
The cut in the air supply aluminum tubing from the auxillary air pump , my welder said couldn't be filled, so, I found a piece of heater hose that is tight and has almost the same bend in it and I am hoping to extend it across the cut and clamp it temporarily until I get the correct part to replace it with. I'll look for a SLK32 vin to try the link for parts 180.
All of my parts are here now and I changed out the pulley bearing this morning after leaving it in the freezer all night. I went in as smoothe and tight just like a (use your imagination). I've got plenty of lighting, the weather in Florida today is definitely not an issue, tools seem to be in order. I believe its time to make a shade tree repair in the Xfire garage of course.
Last edited by Fla_Xfire_SRT; Dec 22, 2015 at 07:11 PM.
Reason: update
Thanks for all the offers and suggestions. Yesterday, I obtained an entire supercharger unit for the shelf as well as a stock pulley to install after replacing the bearing in it along with a replacement engine cover. The replacement is stock 74mm and the one that broke at the grooves was 64mm. My magnet test wasn't accurate because the stock pulley is stainless steel not iron. Since the rescue SRT had an aftermarket pulley on it, I now wonder if it had a "tune" as well. I knew it was a little stronger than my black SRT, now I know why. I suppose today I will continue assembling the parts for the repair and look over the threads to order two scattershields as insurance against future grenading. I WANT TO ADD A GREAT BIG THANK YOU TO CHUK_138 FOR HELPING ME OUT WITH THE PARTS AND TO ALL WHO RESPONDED WITH HELPFUL SUGGESTIONS.....peace
The stock pulley is not magnetic, if you use a strong magnet it gets attracted to the bearing, C-clip and clutch plate through the pulley itself though.
The changeout went fine although we had hoped not to have to swap superchargers, but we did.The old one is going out for rebuild. The used pulley had less meat on the coupling disk or backplate and stood off from its mating surface approx. .030 more than it should. The SC seems to be engaging and there is a noticeable amount of power loss from the 65mm to the 75mm pulley. I don't miss the xtra power as stock is plenty for me, however I am concerned about the extra flexing that the dogbone springs will now have to endure. Concerned, that is, until I get scattershields installed.
I added some pics...cleaned up all the beer bottles and cans too before they were taken and no, it certainly wasn't Blue Moon...who could drink that stuff?..Yeungling Light oh yea!..peace
................The used pulley had less meat on the coupling disk or backplate and stood off from its mating surface approx. .030 more than it should. .....................Concerned, that is, until I get scattershields installed.
Do you mean that the clutch plate does not sit on the three stops like it should? I doubt that there is any material missing anywhere to make parts thinner by any appreciable amount.
If the clutch plate does not sit back against the stops then the dog bones have been stretched too far at some point.
I would not rely on the scatter shield to save you from all damage, I am sure it will save a lot but all? I am not so sure.
We measured the "missing meat" with calipers, its worn as compared to the one that failed.
Was it ever the same thickness as the failed after market one? It maybe just material that was at hand to make the after market one. Wear on this item in use should be minimal, It is not as if the SC connects from a dead stop, it is rotating quite fast when it locks on. My guess is the OEM pulley has been rebuilt with new dog bones, If they have stretched they were not much good to start with.
I base that statement on previous threads I have been on this subject and your posts. I have been wrong once before though if I recall correctly.
The stock pulley had 81K miles on it and had never been altered. I advised Neil to replace the bearing before install, but the pulley was in working order and had only been removed 3 months before. I have no clue how the gap came to be that far off on his car as I wasn't part of the SC swap.
She seems to be coupling fine and we did put in the fresh pulley bearing. You really can't hear the whine of the SC, but the new/used SC is a smooth quiet one as compared to the rattling one that is to be sent out for rebuild. I'm sure some of the rattling was the pulley that may have been split for some time before the dogbone failure. The "grin factor" has been diminished somewhat when the tach climbs over 1500rpm's I will have to admit.
She seems to be coupling fine and we did put in the fresh pulley bearing. You really can't hear the whine of the SC, but the new/used SC is a smooth quiet one as compared to the rattling one that is to be sent out for rebuild. I'm sure some of the rattling was the pulley that may have been split for some time before the dogbone failure. The "grin factor" has been diminished somewhat when the tach climbs over 1500rpm's I will have to admit.
Can you take a closeup photo looking down on the pulley so we can see the gap please? The springs of the OEM pulley have broken before, here and in the M B forums. Every thing breaks in the end I guess.
Brrrr...cold out there this morning too...36F. ..I'll try to post this in the thread, if it doesn't work, the pic will be in my photos folder somewhere..sorry, first pic post in a thread. The pic is a closeup showing the clearance and the oem pulley with the new bearing in it.
Brrrr...cold out there this morning too...36F. ..I'll try to post this in the thread, if it doesn't work, the pic will be in my photos folder somewhere..sorry, first pic post in a thread. The pic is a closeup showing the clearance and the oem pulley with the new bearing in it.
Looks OK except the gap is too much, you need to remove some of the shims to reduce the gap to .012" to .016". All the pulleys and SC mounting faces have a tolerance and the tolerances add up.
The thicker plate on the pulley that grenaded needed more shim thickness than you do now.
That's correct, there was one shim behind the one that split then grenade but there are none behind it presently. It seems to operate and it does feel different at 1500 rpm. I just returned from a 300 mile trip and it performed flawlessly...or..uneventfully might be a better word. I will probably go to the EC pulley on both of my SRT's. I need to learn more about them first.
Looks OK except the gap is too much, you need to remove some of the shims to reduce the gap to .012" to .016". All the pulleys and SC mounting faces have a tolerance and the tolerances add up. The thicker plate on the pulley that grenaded needed more shim thickness than you do now.
Am I mistaken here about the shims? Removing the shims brings the pulley gap closer correct? Sure it does...that's why were running with no shims presently. Anyway, I read one of your posts about the pulleys..."One pulley supplier says that the adjustment has to be made a few times before it is finally set. I would not use one of these pulleys as the springs will be prone to early failure. The set up should be like the OEM pulley and not in any other way at all. " ...and I wanted to know if you are saying that pulley bolt needs re-torquing after running it in which might change the gap. I haven't tried to re-torque my SC pulley yet and should it be done cold or hot?...Thanks in advance...peace
Re: S.C. - Clutch Plate Pulley Assembly
