Chrysler 3.5 V6 motor
Re: Chrysler 3.5 V6 motor
a process that uses phosphoric acid to sort of anodize steel for corrosion prevention. firearm and milspec companies use it on everything.
the industrial process involves bead blasting and dipping in 190*f acid solution for 7 minutes or until the bubbles stop. the anode and cathode are chemical, not electrical. I have seen people use electricity to remove rust like electrolysis, but that's not required here-
the home grown lo tech version sloshes a quart of 85% phosphoric acid inside the tank for the full strength effect [for a few minutes]-- then it gets topped off with tapwater and left to bubble for a couple of days [24-48 hours]. I used the drain I had put in to fill a 5 gal bucket at the end and poured baking soda in to neutralize. then it goes down the drain, unless you want to use it for other parts.
I knew none of this 2 weeks ago. now I are one!
the industrial process involves bead blasting and dipping in 190*f acid solution for 7 minutes or until the bubbles stop. the anode and cathode are chemical, not electrical. I have seen people use electricity to remove rust like electrolysis, but that's not required here-
the home grown lo tech version sloshes a quart of 85% phosphoric acid inside the tank for the full strength effect [for a few minutes]-- then it gets topped off with tapwater and left to bubble for a couple of days [24-48 hours]. I used the drain I had put in to fill a 5 gal bucket at the end and poured baking soda in to neutralize. then it goes down the drain, unless you want to use it for other parts.
I knew none of this 2 weeks ago. now I are one!
Last edited by thummmper; 09-03-2011 at 01:13 AM.
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Re: Chrysler 3.5 V6 motor
Originally Posted by thummmper
a process that uses phosphoric acid to sort of anodize steel for corrosion prevention. firearm and milspec companies use it on everything.
the industrial process involves bead blasting and dipping in 190*f acid solution for 7 minutes or until the bubbles stop. the anode and cathode are chemical, not electrical. I have seen people use electricity to remove rust like electrolysis, but that's not required here-
the home grown lo tech version sloshes a quart of 85% phosphoric acid inside the tank for the full strength effect [for a few minutes]-- then it gets topped off with tapwater and left to bubble for a couple of days [24-48 hours]. I used the drain I had put it to fill a 5 gal bucket at the end and poured baking soda in to neutralize. then it goes down the drain, unless you want to use it for other parts.
I knew none of this 2 weeks ago. now I are one!
the industrial process involves bead blasting and dipping in 190*f acid solution for 7 minutes or until the bubbles stop. the anode and cathode are chemical, not electrical. I have seen people use electricity to remove rust like electrolysis, but that's not required here-
the home grown lo tech version sloshes a quart of 85% phosphoric acid inside the tank for the full strength effect [for a few minutes]-- then it gets topped off with tapwater and left to bubble for a couple of days [24-48 hours]. I used the drain I had put it to fill a 5 gal bucket at the end and poured baking soda in to neutralize. then it goes down the drain, unless you want to use it for other parts.
I knew none of this 2 weeks ago. now I are one!
Re: Chrysler 3.5 V6 motor
Yes. its common for gun enthusiasts to strip off old blueing and retreat with this.
I got a reprioritization when a pipe broke in my bathroom. after inspecting, i am in the throes of a total copper repipe. 49% done now. with sectional valving, I have one toilet and 2 garden hoses for showering [brisk!] and I will today get both bathrooms back with hot water. each time I open a valve I pray for no leaks. had one on the first leg and was able to pull it apart and re sweat it. I do more mischief to my back lying on my side than most anything else [except jackhammering]
all my front end parts are back now, including the jaguar rotors and calipers. they have the same 5x112mm lug pattern as the vanagon. I had the front vanagon rotors turned down to fit inside the jag hat rotors and 1/2x 20 studs pressed in almost 3" long for the thick mercedes ronals.
next week I will get it together and get to the next list items.
I got a reprioritization when a pipe broke in my bathroom. after inspecting, i am in the throes of a total copper repipe. 49% done now. with sectional valving, I have one toilet and 2 garden hoses for showering [brisk!] and I will today get both bathrooms back with hot water. each time I open a valve I pray for no leaks. had one on the first leg and was able to pull it apart and re sweat it. I do more mischief to my back lying on my side than most anything else [except jackhammering]
all my front end parts are back now, including the jaguar rotors and calipers. they have the same 5x112mm lug pattern as the vanagon. I had the front vanagon rotors turned down to fit inside the jag hat rotors and 1/2x 20 studs pressed in almost 3" long for the thick mercedes ronals.
next week I will get it together and get to the next list items.
Re: Chrysler 3.5 V6 motor
I failed to answer the temp sensor harnass question--it is part of the engine harnass--you will have to get one from the jy-worst case scenario would be repinning the plugs with new wire, if it is too mummified.
Otherwise, I know of no other source at this time.
Otherwise, I know of no other source at this time.
Last edited by thummmper; 09-13-2011 at 10:43 PM.
Re: Chrysler 3.5 V6 motor
Originally Posted by thummmper
a process that uses phosphoric acid to sort of anodize steel for corrosion prevention. firearm and milspec companies use it on everything.
the industrial process involves bead blasting and dipping in 190*f acid solution for 7 minutes or until the bubbles stop. the anode and cathode are chemical, not electrical. I have seen people use electricity to remove rust like electrolysis, but that's not required here-
the home grown lo tech version sloshes a quart of 85% phosphoric acid inside the tank for the full strength effect [for a few minutes]-- then it gets topped off with tapwater and left to bubble for a couple of days [24-48 hours]. I used the drain I had put in to fill a 5 gal bucket at the end and poured baking soda in to neutralize. then it goes down the drain, unless you want to use it for other parts.
I knew none of this 2 weeks ago. now I are one!
the industrial process involves bead blasting and dipping in 190*f acid solution for 7 minutes or until the bubbles stop. the anode and cathode are chemical, not electrical. I have seen people use electricity to remove rust like electrolysis, but that's not required here-
the home grown lo tech version sloshes a quart of 85% phosphoric acid inside the tank for the full strength effect [for a few minutes]-- then it gets topped off with tapwater and left to bubble for a couple of days [24-48 hours]. I used the drain I had put in to fill a 5 gal bucket at the end and poured baking soda in to neutralize. then it goes down the drain, unless you want to use it for other parts.
I knew none of this 2 weeks ago. now I are one!
Re: Chrysler 3.5 V6 motor
its no more dangerous than soft drinks--same acid
major side bar to the project
had to totally repipe my trailer/coach as the tiolet water bib broke off at the floor. 1974 galvanized pipes...8 days later and a stiff neck and 1500.00 in copper, I have water bouncing out of my kitchen sink with 60 psi. wow.
then, I had momentum and started on the shed roof over my work area. I will be able to rebuild things and sew again, out of the rain.
so, I have been a little distracted these last two weeks [going on three]
my fingers are stiff and sore
major side bar to the project
had to totally repipe my trailer/coach as the tiolet water bib broke off at the floor. 1974 galvanized pipes...8 days later and a stiff neck and 1500.00 in copper, I have water bouncing out of my kitchen sink with 60 psi. wow.
then, I had momentum and started on the shed roof over my work area. I will be able to rebuild things and sew again, out of the rain.
so, I have been a little distracted these last two weeks [going on three]
my fingers are stiff and sore
Last edited by thummmper; 09-16-2011 at 12:12 PM.
Re: Chrysler 3.5 V6 motor
the park didnt like my shedroof--so i had to take it down-- and a galvanized pipe frame will support a canvas cover I can take down at will.
the front brakes are close to completion-- got ss jacketed flexy lines for the 87 jaguar xj6 4 piston calipers--after looking around, I found these to be a popular solution for many hotrods and other custom projects.
I am checking the trueness/uniformity of my beamer brake weld jig for the right side, now that I have rescued the parts from slow machinists.
I am ready to weldup the right rear side and it didnt look right. the hubs may be canted. more jy parts will tell.
the front brakes are close to completion-- got ss jacketed flexy lines for the 87 jaguar xj6 4 piston calipers--after looking around, I found these to be a popular solution for many hotrods and other custom projects.
I am checking the trueness/uniformity of my beamer brake weld jig for the right side, now that I have rescued the parts from slow machinists.
I am ready to weldup the right rear side and it didnt look right. the hubs may be canted. more jy parts will tell.
Re: Chrysler 3.5 V6 motor
got the spacerdapters from nevada yesterday and they fit wonderfully. they supplied the cs bolts.
the turnaround was reasonable at 10 days from nevada. I mounted this one and the spacing at 19mm thick is good. I'll know better when I set her down.
the turnaround was reasonable at 10 days from nevada. I mounted this one and the spacing at 19mm thick is good. I'll know better when I set her down.
Last edited by thummmper; 11-25-2011 at 11:16 PM.
Re: Chrysler 3.5 V6 motor
December 2011 is build wooden porches [3] month for quick dough. then its back to vanny--
I havent been able to find, after exhaustive searching, a site that focuses in on the resetting of the 3.5 v6 kit in other apps, so I made one. lots of technical stuff for the researcher- come join- [ the stupid site isnt a walk- through for photos]
v6abduction : V6 Abduction
I havent been able to find, after exhaustive searching, a site that focuses in on the resetting of the 3.5 v6 kit in other apps, so I made one. lots of technical stuff for the researcher- come join- [ the stupid site isnt a walk- through for photos]
v6abduction : V6 Abduction
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Re: Chrysler 3.5 V6 motor
I'm amazed everytime I come to this thread. Tis also amaze'n that you've managed to do this build under the conditions you work in. You are truely a back yard mechanic. Hard to image how much easier it would be if you had an air cond. garage with all the goodies. It humbles me see'n what you've accomplished so far. I do have a question. What was the reason for make'n the fuel tank larger. Just for increased range?
Keep up the great work.
Mike.
Keep up the great work.
Mike.
Re: Chrysler 3.5 V6 motor
Thanks mike-- this project started in my super shop in la habra, cal. but after layoffs it ate me alive. Its hard to believe that all my tools fit in the steel box on the right now.
the fuel tank needed the chrysler pump module, which communicates with the pcm. this also cured the oopswagen tank vent fiasco with the little plastic wing tanks in the front wells and all the vapor tubing that leaks. there was also a system used that was intended to seal the penetrations in the oe tank -- by a 3 year old-- they relied on buna rubber grommets. Vw dealers quickly learned not to fill up the tank or it would leak on the showroom floor. super retarded! the plastic coolant tubing cracks and fails around 20 years with high unavailability for replacement, so I redesigned that as well. It costs 100 bucks just to boil oit a used tank for welding prep, and thats a little more than the materials cost for a new, non-exploding tank with 3 more gallons volume, the updated recirc, pump and venting, which also makes my smog ref happy to boot.
the fuel tank needed the chrysler pump module, which communicates with the pcm. this also cured the oopswagen tank vent fiasco with the little plastic wing tanks in the front wells and all the vapor tubing that leaks. there was also a system used that was intended to seal the penetrations in the oe tank -- by a 3 year old-- they relied on buna rubber grommets. Vw dealers quickly learned not to fill up the tank or it would leak on the showroom floor. super retarded! the plastic coolant tubing cracks and fails around 20 years with high unavailability for replacement, so I redesigned that as well. It costs 100 bucks just to boil oit a used tank for welding prep, and thats a little more than the materials cost for a new, non-exploding tank with 3 more gallons volume, the updated recirc, pump and venting, which also makes my smog ref happy to boot.
Re: Chrysler 3.5 V6 motor
somewhere amidst the unmiring of me from carpentry, i verified that my left side beemer rear brake hub alignment jig is accurate, needing no rework, so all I have is the right side to retool and its coming along. I should have that capability by next week. yet another pair of jag front calipers are going to my local machinist for slight mods. I damaged the first pair, and the second pair got drilled too large. third times a charm....I still have 90 custom contoured ballisters to make and install before I can resume fun van stuff.
Re: Chrysler 3.5 V6 motor
i built another locator bridge tool for the right rear trail arm-[ it has been waiting since sept] and established its positioning with another arm I got in november.
and hovered the beamer hub thusly, using the lug plate I cut from a brake drum
and welded it together
and hovered the beamer hub thusly, using the lug plate I cut from a brake drum
and welded it together