Free Sawzall with every purchase for hood clearance!



Disclaimer: Only to be used with no rain in the forcast!

Okay.. just bought this for test fit off ebay.. filter was not as pictured, it's about 2" longer but should still clear in the engine bay. I've noticed several HAI systems and figured it was my turn to play.

Coming in under $50 bucks ain't bad is it? (for Duals..lol )

 

Please tell us the filters will be outside the engine compartment?

Please?

 

Max, Miata-san said :
I think he is serious. ( like he needs more hot air )

OOOOPS !!! There I go hating again, all in jest, MrMiata
I'm sure you will be more than happy with your new HOT air intake

 

Figured I'd let the engine ingest some of the hot air around me (oopss.. that almost sounds like hating back).

Been logging my daily trips to and from work.. wanting to see how temps and cfm are vrs stock with K&N's. If I don't like what I see then they get moved to the front. Hot air rises to the top (Dangit.. Sorry Alaxfire)..
and this configuration sets the filters as far down as they can be.

Footnote:
Looking at the OEM restricted size intake at the grill .. it will be hard to believe this isn't an improvement.
And I've noticed once "heat soaked" my intake temps never drop back to within 20 degrees of ambient.

 

Seriously, you might think about running them all the way down to the plastic belly pan, then possibly fabbing a plastic surround from the belly pan up for each filter after drilling some 1/2" holes in the pan inside the surround. This WOULD give them some cooler air inside the compartment.

oooh oooh - just thought - you could use empty 1 gallon paint cans for the surround with matching 1/2" holes cut in the bottom ...

 

Your engine bay must be different than mine.. I don't think I could force 1 gallon paint cans in there..LOL.

I am thinking "devils horns" and diverter in the engine bay to send cooler air to the filters.

 

Good point, I didn't actually get up and go look. It was just more hot air from me.
Devil horns and diverter sounds like a plan.

 

LOL...

Well that's the game plan anyways. Not like I'm going to be near the National Deficit if it doesn't have any

advantage over stock.

Being a native Texan.. God forbid I get an old hood to cut on though! TMS is this fall...

 

If you find an old hood, I have a brand new SawZall you can borrow .....

 

It would be a new spin on the old "Texas Cadillac" horns..

 

Gather round boys and girls..

Running around with the Torque Pro program.. I've noticed "if your lucky" and don't have to stop you can pretty well stay within 15 degrees of ambient with stock setup and K&N filters. Once you stop for a light or any other reason and heat soak sets in your done. I was doing good if the temps ever got back within 20-25 degrees of ambient.
I've currently only got one 70mm tube with filter on my intake.. waiting on UPS delivery tomorrow.. BUT temps have been running lower. Even after stopping at the store.. and sitting at a red light.. temps were 40 degrees over ambient. 4 miles down the road at 65 MPH temps dropped back to within 10 degrees of ambient.
So hate away.. but this beats stock intake hands down..

 

I performed this same experiment, (with a couple of temperature measurement points-not just the IAT from the ECU) a few years ago.

I found the same. The OEM filterbox is a very efficient heatsink. I posted the results here-somewhere.

 

Read until they bleed, my friend!

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...surements.html

 

Am I mis reading or are you showing the 3" tubes and cone filters as "less efficient"?

[QUOTE=maxcichon;278361]

I dropped the underhood intakes/cone filters like a ...hot rock!

[QUOTE]

 

(A) is the tubes and cones. First column.

No, I dropped them because the IAT's (while cruisin') were > 25 degrees higher than the OEM box (134 vs. 108).

 

Hmm.. unless my IAT sensor is lying to me.. right now running the single tube and cone filter I'm more consistently in the 10-15 degree ambient temp difference .. and noticed when temps go up for light or otherwise.. it cools down a lot faster.
Guess results may vary.. LOL

 

My UltraGuage IAT and the dash panel OAT are always 9-12 degrees apart when crusin'

When stopped, not unusual to see 30-50 degrees more IAT.

I run an old NW CAI with an over sized cone K&N.

 

And this is pretty much what I'm looking at with a $50 investment. Running the stock setup I was lucky to ever get with 25 degrees after a heat soak.

I'm guessing the "path of least resistance" is in play here so I don't expect much if any change when I get the second tube and filter fitted up this evening.

 

With Torque Pro you can also get a reading of how much air is going through the system in g/sec. check Mass Air Flow Rate and Intake Manifold Pressure.

I'm just curious, even if the IAT is the same, is your setup still more efficient?

 

Pull those tubes off your engine cover and out of the radiator support and look at the size of the opening.. then compare that to just 1 3" dia tube. Which Needswing claims as ample for the NA.

Wife is working on taking time.. temp..cfm and rpm into a graph chart for me from the torque logs. I've got several from oem setup with and K&N filters to compare.. and then a few since HAI setup (one tube and cone filter..oem still on passenger side).. Just today road trip home..34 miles..turnpike backed up stop and go.. ambient temp 55 .. end of contruction temps showing 104. Qickly cooled down within 20 degs of ambient.. 10 miles to the house left.. within 10 degrees of ambient the last 3 miles home.

I will say Max was testing at 92 degrees at the time and obviously my testing temps are lower, so I can only surmize the cooler air is going to cool the intake faster, so I do expect the numbers not to be as fast changing. Come summer it may be a different story, but based on what I'm seeing between OEM and this.. gotta think this is going to be better.