What do you think caused this damage?? Squirrel Crusher

 

As I could see, the nut that fixes the flange was out of his location, and caused the damage.
In a 420.000km car, it is "acceptable"

 

The part you want has the number on the part you show, the last numbers are 01 45.

 

Hello,

Thank you, but are you sure?
I went to MB spares dealer, and we were looking the r170 320 spare list and the flange was something like A211xxxxx. The salesperson told me those number was not a reference.

 

What number does your broken part show?

 

Something like...
MB logo 15 P 01 45 FA
After check the VIN and the 2004 manual, I should buy this one:
05099266AA

 

That is the Chrysler part number, buy it and you will get the Mercedes part in a bag with the Mercedes part number A211xxxxxc covered with the Chrysler part number label. It will cost much more after Chrysler marks up the price.
Get the Mercedes part if you can figure it out properly.

 

Yez, I know this car is 90% MB, also this piece has the MB logo
The cost of this flange in MB is about 120$. I called Lancia-Chrysler dealer, and they said me it would took 3 weeks in arrive, because it comes from USA(lol)

 

Amazing.
If the part it contacts is damaged the new part will possibly not fit or maybe it will get damaged again. Maybe you should change both parts.

 

Wow, I am surprised the nutt came loose.

Grats on your 420,000 km

Hiw is the splines on the tail shaft, I hope with some work with a file on the splines and a new seal you can slide the new prop on.

 

Hello,
Really, the car is not mine and I received it as a gift when it came broken. The car repair store said it was a clutch failure and budget about 1500€ for repair it, so the owner after this 420.000Km got another car and give me the Xfire.All that km have been made on highway, so the mecanic parts are in a very good condition

The tail shaft looks quite good, It hasnīt damage on the splines. My worry is about the nut, I will tight to the torque (180Nm) and use loctite 243 to prevent another failure.

 

Glad the tail shaft is ok, was wondering by the splines on the 3 arm prop being messed up on both ends.

Before you put the prop back on, can you do me a favor and take a few pics of the tail shaft and splines .

When I was working on my single piece driveshaft I had some leads for yokes to bolt on, just never took off my props, just made some adapters to bolt on the props, and got a aluminum driveshaft with slip, cut down, rewelded and balanced.

Rare to have a nutt from a prop or yoke come loose, usually it is a pain to get it off.

 

Hello,
I didnīt plan disassembly the rear flange, so I canīt see the splines on it (I need a long 32-34 key). Here I give you some pics, I hope you can see it, here Iīve seen youīre talking about balanced driveshaft but I didnīt make any mark to the coupler (bad done?)

 

Ty, don't take off the rear if you don't have to, so you don't have to get mess with the crush washer.
I just mentioned rebalancing the driveshaft since I completely changed mine out, I got rid of the two piece driveshaft, front and rear flex discs and the ce ter carrier bearing and put in a single piece aluminum with a slip and 1310 joints..
I was going to bolt on yokes right on the output shaft and pinion, but would have to cut off the pilots, not a big deal, ut then wouldn't be able to go back to original driveshaft if I wanted to, and making it to where it would be easy for anyone to change if they wanted to.
Deep throat yokes clear the pinion but cost 3x more.

Since it is all out, good time to change the carrier bearing and flex discs, then be good to go for a while.
And since you are changing everything out I wouldn't worry about marking driveshaft before disassembly.