It's all in the parts my friend, as most HID kits on the market are crap. On the other hand, my car puts more light on the road now than most new vehicles LOL

The LED assemblies should work for you without any issues, mine have been working for over 2 years now.

 

Couple of questions...


I have the 6K led parking lights and my Oracle Halos match them perfectly. No blue but a nice bright white light...even the 6k Sylvania leds do not appear to have any blue in them.


I have 55 watt HIDs for the fogs and lows. I am trying to get a clean white light without any blue and very little yellow if possible. I have been trying different HIDs lights ( I have a lot of them from other cars) but it is a pain and time consuming.


I also have shadows from the anode on my low beams. I read that the Morimoto resolved this by reversing the position of the wire. However the 35 series Morimotos bulbs I have are like any other HID bulb. The picture for their newer H7 XB series seem like they are identical in style to the 35 series with the anode in the same position. Are the pictures wrong or did they really resolve this issue? The dark spot from the anode wire is very noticeable and annoying. I do not have this issue with the same bulbs in my other aftermarket car headlights but on the Crossfire it is very evident. Did the XB series really fix this problem?


Next question...I am running 55 watts on the HIDs. According to them (Morimotot) it lowers the color by 1000K compared to the same bulb running at 35 watts. Does anyone have Morinmot H7 6500K low beams installed at 55 watts? Is it pure white or does it have a blue tint? I may have to buy 6500 and 5500 to compare but they are not cheap bulk pairs.


Thanks

 

I solved the shadow issue by cutting new notches into the XB35 5500K bulbs. The new notch is the complete mirror image of the original notch, which still sits the bulb in the clip holder properly without issues.

Image shows my HIDs after the modification.

 

Are using using the bulbs with 35W or 55W ballasts for your low beam?


I'll look at the bulbs tonight but I thought they had a protruding tab on the bottom that locks them into their seating position placing the anode on the top casting the shadow on the bottom. Are yours locked into that reversed position or is the spring tension just holding them against the mating surface.


Also are you using the Morimoto ballasts too?


Thanks

 

I am using a full XB Morimoto 35watt H7 kit, as it says in my signature too.
XB35 bulbs and ballasts in 5500K. I custom cut new tabs in the opposite side of the bulb bases from the original factory notch cut in them already.

 

Cut where I placed the red lines, making sure it lines up with the factory notch on the other side of the base.

Bulb base is made out of an aluminum mixed metal.

 

I ordered XB bulbs to use with my cheap China ballasts. I ordered the 6500K for the fog and lows since the site shows a 1000k loss when using 55 watt ballasts. Hopefully they will be white no blue and no yellow.


Here is what I am concerned about. I am getting ready to cut the base so I can put the lows in upside down to place the anode on top to get rid of the shadows. Did you have any alignment issues with the bulbs when you reversed them? I noticed they have high raised spots (3 of them) on the bulb and when they are reversed I do not see how the geometry will be the same without angling the lens slightly. Did you realign the headlights when done to compensate or bend the new tab that was formed slightly? I wish I still had my lights out to see how they mate with the aluminum projection surface.


I also can't believe they don't have an option to order them this way from the start.

 

Those raised bumps all sit flash against the holding bracket. Reversing their polar position doesn't nothing to alignment from what I've seen on mine. Though I'm not so sure how nicely those cheap ballasts will play with the xb bulbs. The cheap ones are nowhere near actual 50 watts of output power when measured, and hidplanet had tested many of them to prove so. They averaged 29 to 38 watts. The TRS ballasts actually measure out at a solid 48/50 while in use.

 

Well that didn't go well. I put in the TRS fog bulbs and one low beam bulb (cut it to flip it) to test and replace the Ebay ones thinking I might get more light and a closer match. NONE worked properly. All three of them were flickering every now and then with the engine on or off. Even after a few minutes I still could see flickering. Wasted my time....yanked them all out and put the cheap Ebay ones back in...flickering gone!!


I was thinking of buying the whole TRS kit for the lows but I don't know if I want to spend that kind of money and take the chance. The fact that their bulbs are flickering and the ebay cheapos are not does not leave me with a high level of confidence in the TRS products.


At $150 a kit (least amount) it is a gamble. They also list an anti-flicker option??? At $150 I still have to spend another $15 to guarantee they won't flicker? That is like buying an expensive watch and paying an additional surcharge if I want it to tell time correctly!

 

You'll need the canbus harnesses for it to not flicker. Though don't expect the ebay ballasts to work with the Morimoto bulbs. That's just silly to assume they would lol

 

Are the bulbs for the turn signals the same for front and back? Also what type of bulb is used for that little light that only comes on in panic mode inside the headlight.

 

What in the WORLD are you talking about? If it only comes on under a panic stop, it's loose/bad contact.

"Eyebrow" light. T10 fits.

Like these:



This is just an example, there are a million of them!

 

Max, most people from Dracula, GA are in panic mode most of the time.
( zip 30019 is Dacula, GA )

 

He!!, it's right next to Auburn! He's got real problems, there.....

 

The link for the taillights on eBay have ended

 

Updated the link.

 

Typed "chrylser crossfire" to double check and ebay link says it isn't compatible with our car - this is for the tail lights. should i go ahead and order

 

They are compatible, it's what I use lol

 

Ok gp, I bought the H7 trs kit for both high and low beams several years ago. That is the kit without the wiring harness and relays. Never have I had any problems with the lights flickering. I started out with the el-cheapo ebay kits and learned my lesson quickly. The ebay kits are a waste of time and money. Use a sharp set of side cutters to notch the bulbs for indexing the low beam bulbs in the housing.

 

I must just live a charmed life.. 3 years and 60K on a non Bosch CPS.. 3 years on a "cheap Ebay kit" on my coupe.. and a year in the wife's car. "BEST" in lighting.. probably not.. "respectable upgrade to stock?".. by all means. And for the price difference.. I can replace them 4 more times..

Just food for thought..