While'st using the ole "search" function, trying to edumacate myself, I came acrost a conversation in "wheels,'tires etc" about camber and found a link to this shop www.speedybnz.com They make custom camber arms.

Upon hard cornering, our cars push the front end right off the ole race line.
Might the "adjustable" rear camber arm from these guys help solve that problem?

I haven't lowered my car and still run 18's up front and 19's in back.

Maybe there's a better option or something to do first to try and solve the pushing?

It would also be nice if I could re-adjust the settings back to -0+ for my daily driving...asking too much?

I understand my Hoosier A6's prefer some neg camber so maybe these adjustable camber arms might solve both problems?...pushing and camber?

Edit: after more reading (and I suspect much more to come) it looks like the KMAC might be the way to go. It also looks like the factory camber settings are already on the minus side so maybe it needs to be less negative

 

You can dial out most of the push with the Koni's alone. You will need negative camber up front no matter what, I have -2.05 on one side and 2.29 on the other. In the rear I'm at
-2 on both sides but on our cars rear camber is scary. The toe is real important. In the rear I have some toe out and on the front 0 toe. I was running toe out on the front but I like it better where it is now. I installed the adjustable camber arms in the rear and the immediate result was a severe lack of traction, especially coming off the turns. The lack of a limited slip makes it hard to get on the gas. Now I have a rear strut bar and it has helped more than I could have imagined. If you get the rear adjustable camber bars be aware that they may creak and groan. Mine do. (I don't have speedybenz's) Also mine are much heavier than the stock pieces. If I were you, I'd experiment with the shock settings. Try going softer on front (I know that sounds wrong) and harder on the rear. When I was mostly stock, thats how the car liked it best. A rear strut bar is a revelation. I never expected it to help but with my collection of parts it made a substantial difference. (Mine was made by a guy on the MB forums)

In summation without knowing all you have done, I would leave the rear alone until you have more suspension changes. If a strut bar becomes available, consider it. The front camber kit I have is with the Mercedes camber bolts. They don't give as much adjustment as the Kmac kit but it's inexpensive. On our cars you can not be on the brakes turning in. You must finish braking a touch early (speaking from my limited experience) My car prefers to be under power in the corners so I tend to brake early and enter the corner on the gas a little. Good luck. (You do have adjustable shocks on the front, right?)

Les

 

I would like to know about the strut bar, photo and or details.

I have reduced my rear camber to 1.2 degrees on the rear to reduce tire destruction from the 2+ I had before, seems much better. I also switch off the yaw sensor on the track.

Just cant bigger than 245/40/18s on front. Have same on rear for rotation benefits.

Woody

 

I'll upload photos to photobucket this afternoon. Right now I'll late for the salt mines.

I hope the link works.

http://s98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...r/Strut%20bar/

Les

 

Link works, thanks for the pics

Ok, well I think I've got a better starting point now. Koni's, some type of camber adjuster, and rear sway bar at some point. Thanks
And as far as adjustable shocks up front, they're just the stock srt6 shocks all the way around.

 

I'll be bold and tell you to get adjustable KYB's or Koni's first. You can get a lot of the understeer out with them. It will take some trial and error and perhaps changing your driving style but they really help. The negative camber in the front will help your front tires last a bit longer. Mine died at 2000 miles. (ouch) You really don't need to do anything to the back. The negative camber in the rear will help a little in the corners but also makes it harder to get on the gas early so unless you can get -3 or more front camber, rear camber won't do what you hope it will. I had the car real happy and balanced with the front camber bolts, shocks and alignment. (stock rear settings) Then I got R compound tires which changed the car a lot. They don't communicate when they're reaching the limit, scary. Then I lowered the car and it was garbage, total crap. Slower than stock. I was cussing the Eibach's like you have no idea. Then I got the rear strut bar and played with the shock settings and tire pressures and now the car is real fast in the twisty stuff. I mean .... scary fast. Faster than I dare. So now I'm looking for more power. If you already have A6's its going to be harder to know what changes are doing, positive or negative. I'll mention that I have more grip than brakes at the moment which I like. I use the Porterfield R4S pads with stainless lines and racing fluid. The pads don't feel good on the street but work to my satisfaction on the track. For tires I use Michelin Pilot Sport Cups. I brake real late but because we have more tire on the rear than the front, I find it's imperative to be done slowing before turn in. My car likes to be on the gas in the corner. Touch the brakes in the corner and the front will slide. Now that your totally confused, shocks, front camber, alignment for the track, and experiment with the shock settings. I may be full of it because I'm relatively new at this stuff, but these are my observations from the last year and a half racing the SRT-6. (Solo 1 and every single local track day) My wife made sure I made one change at a time which was frustrating but educational.

Les

 

Thanks for sharing what you've been learning in your past year and a half of racing.

After adding DCAI, 178 pully and a Eurocharged tune a few weeks ago, I know that the new big problem area will be getting through the turns. I ran on dot R's last year but that big front end still pushed.

So I'll begin by looking into the Koni's and probably order the Chrysler camber bolts and see what's what before spending $$$ on the Kmac's.

 

I have the rear KMAC Camber Kit installed and I think this would be a better product.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...mber-arms.html

**EDIT**

With the TVT camber arms, I would think you could easily "mark" them for both street and track alignment for easy adjustment on track days without having to climb back on the alignment rack each time.

 

Thanks Brian
I'll follow this conversation and see where it goes, definately like the cheaper cost as well as the possibility to "mark" the settings.

 

These are only for the rear. With these you can remove negative rear camber from lowered cars. You can also use them to put some negative camber in but I'm not sure how much. On the camber arms I have, almost all the adjustment is the other way (to get rid of unwanted negative camber). Be sure to ask how much negative camber they will permit.
They look much nicer than what I have, by the way.

Les

 

I adjusted the rear to get about -.6 degrees on the rear wheels to gain traction by having the whole width of the tire on the road, The inner edge was only hitting before with over -2 degreees camber. I compared the specs with the corvette and gt mustang to get a starting point.

I see the strut bar and wonder what it connects to ?? The shock tower tops?

Iam using 18 to allow tires to rotate for wear balancing of the costly slicks in autocrossing. Really want to get BIGGER front tires. Ran a daytona with 275's all way round and it was amazing in the turns, front held like crazy. Ive done everything I can think of to get bigger front wheels up front.

Dont want big tires on small rims, they cup too much.

Enjoy, Woody

 

The strut bar has brackets that go over each shock rod and the stock nut goes holds it in place. The bar itself is rather flimsy with an adjustable center piece that threads into the right and left sections. You can pull the shocks together or push them apart. I felt like I wasted my money until the track day. It makes a positive difference. I'm still running -2 camber in the rear with -.02 of toe. I have another track day on a small twisty track this Sunday. I'll let you know how it goes. On the front I have 0 toe and -2 on one side and -2.25 on the other.

Les