I have an SRT6 with about 50,000 miles on it. I recently started having some electrical issues. I first noticed that at an idle all lights flicker a little bit. Then the radio started turning off on its own. If you press the button it turns back on again. But then for no apparent reason it turns off again. My wife noticed that sometimes when the power windows are cycled it causes the radio to shut off. A couple of times recently at an idle in traffic it has just stalled. Today I was on my way home from work after the radio turned off a couple of times by itself while going down the freeway at speed the car chugged once and the traction control light went off and so did the radio. I started playing with the power window buttons to see if it had an influence on this and when the window was completely closed the radio would shut off. I could hit the window button again and the radio would turn on again. I did this several times and it acted just like I was hitting the power button on the radio. I shut everything electrical down that I could just hoping to get home from work. The car was fine for 15 minutes or so. As I exited the freeway the car chugged once again, traction control light went off and the car completed died and coasted to the side of the road. No lights, no power. I turned the ignition key off, rotated it back to the start position, everthing powered up, the car started immediately and I drove a couple mile home without any more incident. It almost seems like something electrical is grounding out. I have inspected everything visible and don't see any issues. I just thought I would put this out there to see if anyone else has experienced this before or had any suggestions. I sure would hate to go to the dealership with something like this. Please help me!!

 

How old is your battery and is it any good?
These cars do funny things when the battery is weak.

 

I agree. I vote "Replace the Battery" and get back to us.

I did NOT say "test the battery" - I don't care HOW old it is, replace the battery and get back to us.

You MIGHT start inspecting the connections in the black box next to the battery, (the little junciton box, not the Control Module box) - but I'm with 100/80 above - sounds like the infamous "My car is doin weird stuff and my battery is only 6 years old" complaint.

 

Thanks guys,
I did try playing around with all the connections in the junction box to see if I could duplicate the issue but there doesn't seem to be anything going on in the junction box contributing to the problem. The battery may be the first attempt at solving the issue. Although it has shown no signs of failure. it always cranks over hard and strong. Even after the car died on the expressway it cranked hard and strong when I re-started it. I know I've had motorcycles that would do some really wierd stuff when the battery went but, they usually showed some signs of a weak or dead battery.I'm busy for the next few days so i probably won't get to address the battery until early next week but I will give you an update after that fix. Thanks

 

Have you done the re-soldering thingie? That solved my car from shutting down on the high-way.

 

What is the re-soldering thingie???

 

This https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...available.html

 

Update:
I did some more research and it seemed that my symptoms related to a lot of the bad CPS stories. Since it's cheaper than a new battery and they seem to go bad quite often I replaced the CPS, crossed my fingers and drove the car to work the next day. It seemed fine but I did notice that at an idle the instrument lights were flickering a bit so I thought just to be safe maybe I'd better replace the battery also. I drive right through the heart of downtown Detroit every day and don't really want to wind up on the side of the road somewhere. My radar detector has a feature that registers the cars voltage and when I backed in the garage that evening I noticed it said "Low Battery". I picked up a battery at Walmart that night and dropped it in. No more instrument light flicker and it has been a couple of days now and the car seems fine. I do still have one symtom remaining, I'm getting a occasional temperature light that appears and will then go off again but it doesn't seem to agree with what the gage is reading. I'm not sure if maybe this is a sending unit going or something????
Thanks again guys for all the input I received while trying to solve this issue.

 

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-no-start.html

I believe this problem associated with the rcm is caused by temps playing havoc with the solder points involved. I tried to resolder mine but it just looked bad, accoeding to the experts I would send yours to get replaced and have the horn of all time mod done to it as well.

Or call a priest to cast out your gremlins

 

I checked out the RCM initially when this problem first started and it all looks good. Nothing like the pictures of examples posted of bad solder points. I have to say I don't believe this is causing my temperature light to come on. Yesterday it came on when I started the car in 40 degree temps and then stayed on for only 5 minutes and shut off.

 

Exactly WHICH light is coming on? There is a "Coolant Indicator Light", it is item 3 on page 101 of my owner's manual. It looks like a radiator about half-full of coolant.

This light indicates high coolant temperature, sure - but your GAUGE will show it at the same time. IF your gauge does not indicate a problem, then the message is probably one or more of these:

1) The fan motor is not drawing current (and probably not turning) even tho the Fan Control Module(FCM) has been told to run the fan.
2) The ECM has lost contact with the FCM. If this happens and the FCM is actually working, it will go into "Emergency Mode" and run the fan at high speed, you'll hear it!)
3) The coolant level sensor is indicating low coolant (which means you are low on coolant OR the sensor is bad).
4) Perhaps other things I am unfamiliar with!

 

Flickering lights can also be a sign of worn alterator brushes, very visible at idle. May not be the problem.

Dave
dtinker

 

Which one is it pizzaguy?
Answer, #3. The gage shows coolant temperature.

 

REPLACE the BATTERY! PERIOD... CPS won't cause all you have explained....

 

Change the battery, but also check the alternator. Get the car in the dark, lookat the dash lights at idle. If they flicker, replace the alternator.
Dave
dtinker