I disconnected the battery for 2 days, turned key to on/run for two days, turned off and reconnected. I'll try doing it for 10 minutes though!

 

Did I miss that in your post? I'd say you more than covered it then.. But hey one more time is free to try.. LOL.

 

Turns out the battery had a bad cell. It's been replaced but still same no start symptoms. Any chance this could be a faulty sprint booster?? I tried what you said mrmiata and same thing. Thanks.

 

It is almost 100% certain the SKREEM is bad, unless you have been working in the dash and have yanked the wires of the black, circular RFID antenna that surrounds the ignition switch.

 

Yeah, I removed the sprint booster and same issue. Going to figure out towing to dealer now. Thanks everyone.

 

I am going through a simular thing with my Coupe. First of all I did a major service back in July which included fuel filter & pump replacement & from day one (with new pump fitted) it started making a whinning noise but the car drove perfectly so didn't worry to much. Jump forward to just over a week ago, I start the car up but with in 2 seconds it conks out & would not fire up again. It would turn over & everything else worked so we quickly realised to check out the RCM etc & found it had blown the fuel pump fuse. Replaced it & all was fine for another 6 days then from cold start up did exactly the same thing as before! I have recieved a new fuel pump because according to the supplier they shouldn't make any noise & certanly not like how I describe. Fitting new pump over the weekend but not convinced this is where the problem lies. Could this be a case of none OEM parts causing me this problem, I am not so sure.

 

Dealer says SKREEM and RCM are bad. They quoted me 950 for the SKREEM and 550 for the RCM. I told them the RCM is new and to replace the SKREEM and call me back!

 

Just gotta love them.. I've seen posts of about 600 on the Skreem out the door..

 

I love when they don't know what the real issue is, and they state 2 parts. Like they both failed at the same time.
Also, just because the RCM is new doesn't mean it can't still have those faulty solder joints!

 

I'm sorry I didn't see this post earlier. Your description is consistent with all other skreem module failures that are posted. One crank, two crank, and third crank you're out. Well it doesn't really crank a third time. Disconnect the battery for a period of time and then same-same.
I had my skreem module replaced in April at a Chrysler Dealership by a certified XF tech -$190.00 for the module (the dealership had to order it due to it being VIN specific) and was quoted 2 hours labor by the XF tech to remove the instrument panel and R&R the skreem. Total cost $425.00 OTD. They needed a week to get the skreem in and needed both keys. Chrysler requires the dealership to send the old module back to them. Had the car towed on a flatbed and dropped off when they opened in the morning and picked it up that afternoon. I had the work done at a dealership in Anchorage Alaska, your quote for $950.00 might need some clarification by the service manager.

 

Now there is a dealer to stick with and support!

 

Just to follow up and end this topic, I paid 911 dollars out the door for SKREEM to be "refurbished" by the manufacturer. It took five business days for the dealer to remove, send it in, and have it returned. That's the story they gave me at least. My car starts and runs great now. Thanks all.

 

Are these cars still worth alot of money over in the States then? I mean that with all due respect because over here they are peanuts to buy but the parts is where they hit you. I must admit that if I had to spend out 900 dollars which is probably about £600, I would probably be looking at trading it in.

 

How can you trade in a car that doesn't start or run, though? It's practically worthless without the repair, but runs perfectly afterwards. I think one difference too is that I love the car and 900 dollars isn't much to get it running. It's the only repair I ever had done on the car that I couldn't do myself for < $150. I think that's pretty good for 10 years.

 

Let's see.. 900 to fix a car you know the history of.. or sell for maybe 1500 bucks and sign up for a monthly payment for the next 60 months.. or buy a used car you know nothing about and make payments for what 48 months.. and fix God knows what along with that payment.. Example.. I purchased a 2006 Avalanche.. cash purchase .. drove perfectly.. 6 months later 1600 for a new transmission.. See how that works?

I'll take that 900 hit and continue to enjoy the car..

 

Fair points raised.....



Insurance job perhaps?