Hey guys. I drive a 2005 srt6 auto with 65k under the hood. Recently I've been having issues and for the life of me can't seem to hunt the culprit down

Symptoms are car will start and run like a beast cold and after warmed up. But if I park and say run into the store and back out upon starting my engine starts up fine but then acts as if it's choking. I have the tiniest amount of throttle response and pedal goes dead after that. Car barely stays running and is hardly drive able unless you creep it along. I also notice a lean smell from the exhaust. If I let my car sit and become cold it will usually crank back up and run normal for a day or so. If I manually press my throttle body while symptoms are present it catches it's breath idles high. But still I have no response from my gas pedal. I have changed coil packs spark plugs and wires. I have changed my cps. Completely cleaned my throttle body. I habe checked for vacume leaks. The front 02 sensor were changed 8 months ago and the rears get swapped this week. Any advice would surely be appreciated. It seems I can't get it to throw a a code even after letting it stumble and sputter for 20 min tryin to get it home

 

Check fuel pressure. This sounds very typical to a failing fuel pump, lose tolerances when warm. If you fill up with a fresh tank of gas, it may get better for a few minutes. If so, that is more evidence, the cold fuel cools the pump.

 

We originally thought that but I ran a bottle of cataclean out of hopes it would catch something and ran fine until fuel up and started up wonky at the pump. Is it still possible it's a fuel pump?

 

Also thank you for the speedy reply♡ I love my car but it has me thrown for a loop at this point

 

Only Once Has The Problem Occurred While I Was Actually Driving I Was Sitting With My Girlfriend In Front Of A Buddies Waiting On Him To Come Out. Maybe for 5 minutes. It started acting up and then caught itself with in 10 seconds. And once leaving work before I got out of the parkin lot. Luckily my dad lives a couple blocks away

 

Those are the exact symptoms I had on my SRT. The car only had 13,000 miles on it then. Replaced the CPS, no help. Sent my RCM to tighed1 for repair, reinstalled it and problem solved for over a year now.

 

Another one that me and my father have looked at but he wasn't able to see any damage. His eyes are old too. We are going to look again soon. How much was the repair?

 

I think he is still charging $25. Here is a clip and the thread.


https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-no-start.html


Still fixin' them.
Send your RCM and $25 (PayPal to (tighed1 at Hotmail.com) or cash is cool) to:

I'll inspect, redo bad solder joints, perform the Me So Horny mod (horn works w/o key) and replace the Air Pump relay (and the Fuel Pump relay if needed). I will then test your RCM in one of my cars. Then I will mail back the RCM to you via USPS Priority Mail (2-3 day). In most cases I get the RCM back in the mail the day after I receive it so yer looking at about a week total. If you want the package insured please include an additional $6. FYI, In the couple/few years that I have been doing this only one was lost in the mail.
Please email your address to me also.

DJ

 

You guys are the absolute best. I've been scouring the forum for weeks it seems tryin to hunt this issue but makes since that the last time I was having issues (cps) I checks the rcm and it seemed to be in working order. I guess things have changed and will yank it out tonight hopefully. I seriously can't than you enough. These are the coolest cars given a lil love they can go so far♡ I will be reporting back with conclusions to all this. I hope it's as simple as rcm!! On the bright side with the new coil packs she's purring like a kitten when she does run lmao

 

UPDATE:
we have pulled out the rcm, it didn't look split but by all means had weak joints. My dad has since beefed them up. And upon reinstall my car has fired up fine. Cleared the codes reset the throttle and I pray that was it. Will update in 60 miles or if another problem arises. Again thank all of you so much♡

 

^^^ You have to use a strong magnifying glass to inspect the solder joints, and while you are at it, inspect all the relay contacts for excessive pitting also.
In a few rare instances, a relay coil has shown to have an intermittent open condition.

 

I beleive it was pitted. The joints looked super skimpy. My dad doesn't think so but again his older eyes I could barely see the pitting. In any case the car has acted like a charm since the repair. Will continue to update but I believe I'm symptom free

 

In an earlier post you said that you did not get a fault code and now you say you cleared the fault codes, which is correct?
If a code was set what was it?

 

Until last night I had no code. I should've ran it before I worked my rcm but I disconnected my battery before I started n then repaired solder points therefore I may never know what the code that got set was unless it's stored somehow

 

Disconnecting the battery does not reset the code if I recall correctly, disconnecting the battery actually sets new codes which are to do with the pollution system, and they can only be reset by driving the car for some distance under various conditions. You would not pass any pollution test until that is done. The pollution codes can not be read on some readers and do not set the CE light.
Run a check on the code(s) it should still be there.

 

At least I live in Texas where wedon't do smog test and I will today and see if anything is stored in my computers memory as of now though I am symptom free. Idling much better and no weird exhaust smells.