pizzaguy, with the engine running there is continuous 13.5 volts to the left side limit switch. Upon completion of it opening, there is close to 0 volts. Closing, it immediately goes back to 13.5 volts. They're simply on/off switches. That is unless they're tied into the BCM to activate the spoiler at speed.

I've tested it twice and am sure of these figures. I used needles in each of the left side limit switch wires.

The raised plastic edges on the large gear are of course staggered from side-to-side. I'm unable to see but I assume the right side is on a raised section when down.

Now do you feel a regular old 10 or 20 amp double throw/double switch will work?

Another question: on the schematic you included, for the motor (bottom left) it refers to them as being Rear Spoiler Driver up, the other side down. What is a 'Driver' in BCM code?

 

pizzaguy, with the engine running there is continuous 13.5 volts to the left side limit switch. Upon completion of it opening, there is close to 0 volts. Closing, it immediately goes back to 13.5 volts. They're simply on/off switches. That is unless they're tied into the BCM to activate the spoiler at speed.

Sounds right. They close, that is, they ground the sense going to the BCM when 'limit' is reached.

Now do you feel a regular old 10 or 20 amp double throw/double switch will work?

Sure, it will work. What I am saying is that the limit switches in the original Crossfire design will not pass 20 amps of current and will not work in the little diagram you provided. Again: the limit switches in the original design are WORTHLESS to you unless you build a microcontroller and use them in the fashion the original design uses them.

Another question: on the schematic you included, for the motor (bottom left) it refers to them as being Rear Spoiler Driver up, the other side down. What is a 'Driver' in BCM code?

That is a convoluted way of saying it. That is, the manual uses convoluted terminology, typical in the automotive world. What it all means is this:

Pins 14 and 15 provide 12 volts positive and ground. It is impossible to know what logic they use but the fact is, the spoiler motor is a simple DC motor that reverses direction when you reverse the polarity of the applied power.

MY Definition of a "Driver" is when you "drive" it with 12 volts positive, so the top half below is what I would expect. BUT they may think of a "Driver" as the applied ground, so the bottom may apply. You can only test it and see:

 

sprite63, I really apologize for putting my ideas before you've received an answer to your limit switch question.

Not the best answer, but I'd say hook it all up and see what happens. I'd mentioned that when I first hooked up the wires to the motor, I had them reversed. The motor sort of bumped and I quickly removed one of the wires.

I'm well aware power anything on a car shouldn't be assembled by trial and error, but perhaps in this case, that might be the best way to start - but always be prepared to cut the power. Many years ago I installed power windows in my '75 Alfetta GT. There were a lot of moving to Plan B's before it all came together - and fortunately I didn't burn anything out.

I don't mean to talk down to you but I'll just add this if it will help: Do use either momentary double pole double throw - or - single pole double throw. I don't mean to talk down to you but the momentary part is that the rocker or toggle switch has springs behind each position so that it reverts to the center once released. Single pole double throw is having one contact top and bottom and one in the middle. The double is having two sets of 3 contacts.

 

Maybe I'm too simple in my electronics thinking.. but couldn't the limit switch be interfaced with a relay? And "personally" testing would be done with an independent battery supply if this were me.. Them German Electronics get even.. LOL.

 

Good point regarding the battery situation.

 

Well, if the switches were normally closed and opened at limit - then yea, a latching relay with the limit switch in the coil's loop would do it. But the Crossfire's OEM limit switches are OPEN until the limit is reached and close at limit.

Hey........... if you used a conventional relay and made it latching using a pass transistor, a switch transistor and two resistors, you could energize the relay with the up/down switch - and unbias the transistor with the limit switch. Total parts count of four transistors, eight resistors, two relays.

 

When someone says I don't mean to talk down to you is mostly said when someone knows they are talking down to someone.
I might remind you that you have asked some pretty dumb questions here lately and not one person said anything like that to you. Some people know more about somethings than others but they refrain from being elitist in their knowledge. I think a better phrasing of the reply would have worked quite well.

 

??? OK, I admit its very early and I am very sleepy BUT, this diagram, right side of DPDT switch, in either position, is the 12v going to ground after either switch is closed (down/up)? In other words, that whole right side of the DPDT concerns me... ???




.

 

Okay another crude one, but yes, there is a problem - except on the left, down side.

The gray + wire activates the up side and the black stops it. Unfortunately on the way down I need for the black wire to switch places.

Id sure like to know how the original switch with two wires handles this.

I doubt much if what I'm about to suggest even exists. That being a rotary switch set up in the order of function. Somewhere the juice for the motor needs to be factored in. But rotating the switch from the static position to the right activates the gray/black. Turn switch from static to the left pair and it goes down.

It would seem to me that the motor gets its reversal info from the limit switches...but sprite63's set-up only uses the two motor contacts.

I'll certainly bow out of this thread if it is felt that I'm hindering this discussion/thread.

 

Admittedly a total novice when it comes to "lectical" stuff. That said my understanding is that the XF limit switches are mechanical in that at some point they are activated by physical contact with something. On the other hand the window switch diagram I posted appears to be activated by sensing excessive (higher than designed?) voltage/amps and shuts off power. Please set me straight here.

 

Nothing to set straight, you are correct on both points.