Same issues as others NO START
I have a 2006 Crossfire Roadster with a manual and 41k on it. Took it out of storage connected the battery fired right up drove it about 10 miles to the gas station then started it and parked it in the garage and that is where she sits. Two cranks starts then kills and starter won't engage multiple times when I take the neg off to reset. I have replaced the battery since it was original, both key fobs still work, soldered the 3 spots on the RCM and the alarm still activates with the fobs so think the SKREEM is working. Oh and I did push it forward a few feet and same result. What would you guys recommend for my next go around? Thanks!!
Last edited by csvir; May 18, 2016 at 02:45 PM.
Two cranks starts then kills
In other words, get a bit more descriptive and wordy, you have us guessing here....
Sorry I'm guessing myself! Once I reconnect the negative on the battery it will start then dies in about 2 seconds and will start the second time and same result. After the two times the starter will not engage until I pull the negative from the battery and resets. The reason I don't think it is the SKREEM is that both keys will activate the alarm and lock and unlock the doors and the trunk. Please let me know more questions you might have.
I have a 2006 Crossfire Roadster with a manual and 41k on it. Took it out of storage connected the battery fired right up drove it about 10 miles to the gas station then started it and parked it in the garage and that is where she sits. Two cranks starts then kills and starter won't engage multiple times when I take the neg off to reset. I have replaced the battery since it was original, both key fobs still work, soldered the 3 spots on the RCM and the alarm still activates with the fobs so think the SKREEM is working. Oh and I did push it forward a few feet and same result. What would you guys recommend for my next go around? Thanks!!
Well, Im NOT sure but I think it is a SKREEM. I'll page Greg for ya.......
Have to agree with Mark.. and rumor has it DON'T do the battery thing 10 times.. AKA 30 attempts and fails at starting.. the ECU is reported to pull a mission impossible.. IE.. self destruct. At this point.. I'd say disconnect battery for a couple hours.. with it still loose go through the motions of starting it.. fully discharges everything.. then give it another try.. If it hits then dies.. you don't need to give it "another" chance to start and die.
And just to tag another base here.. no fob case swap.. or dropped fob that came apart.. or anything along that line right? Extra key to try the start with?
And just to tag another base here.. no fob case swap.. or dropped fob that came apart.. or anything along that line right? Extra key to try the start with?
Last edited by Mrmiata; May 23, 2016 at 08:17 PM.
GOOD POINT, he said both fobs lock and unlock, but if he has not tried to START the car with both fobs, then do it, sir! You might have a bad/missing RFID chip in one fob (like if you changed cases,etc.)
Just locking/unlocking hte car does NOT test the RFID chip in the key. The lock/unlock is a function of the battery operated transmitter in the key. Starting the car is a function of the RFID chip in the key.
Just locking/unlocking hte car does NOT test the RFID chip in the key. The lock/unlock is a function of the battery operated transmitter in the key. Starting the car is a function of the RFID chip in the key.
To my knowledge any other issue does not require a "battery reset".. my CPS failed and I cranked on it for 20 minutes in about 4 minute intervals.. no battery cable touched.. I don't think a lack of fuel or the relay failure alters this.
Have to agree with Mark.. and rumor has it DON'T do the battery thing 10 times.. AKA 30 attempts and fails at starting.. the ECU is reported to pull a mission impossible.. IE.. self destruct. At this point.. I'd say disconnect battery for a couple hours.. with it still loose go through the motions of starting it.. fully discharges everything.. then give it another try.. If it hits then dies.. you don't need to give it "another" chance to start and die.
And just to tag another base here.. no fob case swap.. or dropped fob that came apart.. or anything along that line right? Extra key to try the start with?
And just to tag another base here.. no fob case swap.. or dropped fob that came apart.. or anything along that line right? Extra key to try the start with?
Well that eliminates they key being a problem.. and yes.. 30 failed attempts is the reported number.
Originally Posted by zip439
Simple SKREEM test: Lock your doors from outside the vehicle with the FOB. Then look inside at the Tow-Away Alarm Switch. Is it flashing? If not, then you have a SKREEM problem. If it does flash, then the SKREEM module should be OK.
CSVIR - your symptoms describe a malfunctioning skreem module. It can only be diagnosed correctly with a DRB III scan tool that typically only authorized Chrysler dealerships have. There appears some threads that others have been able to do the R&R themselves most have had a dealership do the replacement. The skreem is VIN specific to you car. Search this forum for skeem module failures and then begin to look in your area for a dealership that has experience working on Crossfires and also has the DRM III diagnostic tool and a tech that knows how to use it. JMHO
Keep us posted
If not email me at
tighed1@hotmail.com
Info for RCM Repair
Send your RCM and $27 to:
DJ TIGHE
3601 Pinnacle Ct
Sierra Vista, AZ 85650
I'll inspect, redo bad solder joints, perform the Me So Horny mod (horn works w/o key) and replace the Air Pump relay (and the Fuel Pump relay if needed). I will then test your RCM in one of my cars. Then I will mail back the RCM to you via USPS Priority Mail (2-3 day). In most cases I get the RCM back in the mail the day after I receive it so yer looking at about a week total. If you want the package insured please include an additional $6. FYI, In the few years that I have been doing this have lost 2 in the mail (one was to Canada).
Please email your address to me also.
Leave all fuses and plastic cover on RCM.
DJ
Hi guys, don't mean to hijack this thread but I too am having issues with starting my 2005 SRT-6. Just found water in the trunk and plan on fixing the gasket but its hard to go get parts when your car won't start
The symptoms are:
1. car will not lock with fob and key will not go into door lock.
2. lights will flash when lock button is pushed on fob.
3. top will not go down when button is pushed.
4. After drying out trunk, car would start and run but then threw a CEL (but still ran until today).
5. radio, lights etc work when key is inserted, windows will go down but not up.
6. when key is inserted into the ignition and turned, you hear clicking but it will not turn.
Any help would be much appreciated!!!
Bill
1. car will not lock with fob and key will not go into door lock.
2. lights will flash when lock button is pushed on fob.
3. top will not go down when button is pushed.
4. After drying out trunk, car would start and run but then threw a CEL (but still ran until today).
5. radio, lights etc work when key is inserted, windows will go down but not up.
6. when key is inserted into the ignition and turned, you hear clicking but it will not turn.
Any help would be much appreciated!!!
Bill
Last edited by ZappaIsAlive; May 24, 2016 at 01:29 PM.
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