Just out of curiosity is this a coupe or Roadster ? If it's a coupe have you checked the pneumatic pump and security module in the trunk for water damage? Just trying to cover all possible bases 😉

 

That "start" is a cough of a start.. It fires for 1/2 a second then dies..

 

I apologize for the confusion, but now I'm more confused. The engine turns over sounding like a full start and then immediately dies. Same thing on second attempt and then nothing on third crank except obvious full power, lights, dash etc. I pulled the RCM and re-soldered the connections as directed in the video and no change. Are we all on the same page still with the SKREEM?

 

2004 Coupe. I have no idea what a pneumatic pump is. Sorry for my lack of knowledge. Maybe I should clarify, I am a single woman and I bought this car because its cute and fast.

 

Yes. This is an accurate description.

 

Shyloe....nothing to apologize for about being a woman. I bought my first one (N/A roadster) because it was cool looking. Bought it over the internet and didn't know how fast it was until after I flew to PA and paid for it. Mechanics are certainly not my strong point and with that comes problems verbalizing mechanical things. Hang in there!! Good group of mechanical people here that love to help!

 

Thank you for the encouragement. I can get almost anything done with a little common sense and of course, google! However with the way dealers and mechanics react when I bring in this car I have been forced to learn more than I ever wanted to about auto mechanics. Even still, I am far from handling this situation and greatly appreciate the advise and support from all of you. It is really hard to find anyone that can (competently) work on this car in my area so I am really relying on the expertise I found here at least for proper diagnosis.
I am pretty sure in this case the skreem module is the culprit. I was hoping this was not the case. Although it breaks my heart, rather than pay to have my car towed 25 miles home, rent a car for several weeks, purchase a new skreem and figure out how to install it, I need to make the practice choice. In this case, let the dealer handle all that and get a different car. The crossfire has been amazing in every way but this is the second time it has left me without wheels for weeks. I'll miss her but I think that is the right choice

 

I'm sorry to hear your trading it in. Unfortunately, with no support from any major dealers, your decision , has happened to others before. Its people on the forum that keep DIYers , plugging right along. Some even look for these cars that others have ,gotten frustrated with or given up on. Hope you find something you enjoy.

 

You might look at the Northwest Crossfire Forum. Maybe someone is near you and could help you out or even be interested in buying your baby. Good luck!!

 

Is there anyway I can be sure it is the SKREEM that is causing my issue? I did re-solder the connections on the RCM and that didnt help. Turns out getting a different vehicle is not an option so I am back to getting this fixed ASAP. I just want to make sure I don't spend $300.00 and wait for this part and find out it was wrong. Also, if I decide I cannot put it in myself, can anyone tell me what I can expect a shop to charge me to put in the replacement?

 

Your looking at 3 to 3.5 hours @ $100 to $125 an hour labor. This an our love of this car is why we are on this forum. To help each other diagnosis problems if they arise. Find a shop that works (independently) on MB's and other imports. They should be able to get you in an out.

 

I just wanted you all to know since I feel like we are in the craziness together.....I'm about to order my replacement SKREEM right now!! I will have my car towed home tomorrow and start taking it apart so it's ready when the part arrives. I'm going to do the labor myself (WITH your help of course). All that's left is figure out what I'm going to drive while I'm having all this fun.
Any final words of wisdom or encoragem?

you are all so great
Thank you!

 

Yes ,download a copy of the service manual so you will have it handy.

 

Do a search on this sight also. There are step by step instructions on how to replace it. Even if you have a shop do it, I would provide them with the instructions. It could save a lot of time and avoid problems.

 

So I received my new SKREEM module and replaced it, got everything back together and now when I start it the motor churns but it doesn't fire up. This is not at all like a problem I had prior to replacing the skreem module so I feel like the skreem module is working. Does anyone know what my new problem might be?

 

First thing I would check is if the fuel pump is running and you have pressure at the test port.
If you have fuel pressure, then
pull a wire off one of the spark plugs and hook it to a plug held against the valve cover to see if you have ignition.
If not, I would replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor.
Could also be a problem with soldering or a relay in the RCM.
So many choices ! How to decide ???????

 

Congratulations on your skreem replacement!!! (something I hope I never have to do, even w/average+ shade tree experience, lol).
Ditto ala_fire: Crankshaft Position Sensor or Relay Control Module (aka: computer control module). (CAUTION: checking for spark can be SHOCKING; Hi-voltage)

Do Not Despair! Each is a relatively easy & low $ fix! (& so common) Read (& you tube) all you can here on CPS, without going cross-eyed, lol. Hint, you may avoid damage to the connector clip by removing the hold down bolt & CPS before removing the clip. A little masking tape in your socket may help grip & hold the bolt. Install new part & then plug connector on top securely. (Bosch CPS, from Needswings?)
As to the RCM; pm: tighed 1 and send yours to him for complete and low $ repair (including relays & quick turnaround), BTW: I think that guy deserves a medal!!! Needswings Too!!! (email: tighed1@hotmail.com)

Shyloe: you are almost there!!!

 

I have been knocking out each of these repairs one by one. So far since my trouble began in October I have replaced the battery (under the hood and in my key FOB), re-soldered the RCM, replaced the SKREEM and sent my RCM to Tighed1 for test and repair. I got my RCM back and no change in the current no-start symptom. The best way to describe the current no start is that the engine cranks but there is no spark to fire it all the way up, it just keeps going wha wha wha wha wha wha. I did replace the CKP Sensor about 6 months ago and it seemed to be fine until now. I will admit I purchased the cheapest one I could find so maybe that's the problem. Replace the CKP sensor is the next task. I am wondering if I should just do both the CKP sensor and the CMP sensor at the same time?

 

Hi Shyloe

I've had a similar problem before, it might just be a bad connection on the CPS. The connector to the CPS gets brittle after a while (from all the heat) and the contacts within it can move or break off when you take it on and off the CPS. It could have easily been damaged (or just making contact) when you replaced the CPS 6 months ago. I wouldn't like to see you replace the CPS and still not have it work because the connector is bad. I think if the CPS was bad it would more likely start but stop running when it heats up.

 

Plus 1, CL770. Needing a quick fix (dark parking lot), installed a non oem CKP & broke retaining clip on connector. Worked for a few days, then failed. Do not know if connector loosened or CKP @ fault, but promptly obtained a Bosch part & secured the connector. No problem since. Carefully examine CKP connector & the pins in the CKP, (get the Bosch part online, for best price; Not Dealer).