Hello,

I have a 2005 crossfire roadster I am working on and it will not turn over. A bit of background info:

Car was given to me because the dealer (Chrysler) who had it for ~9 months could not get the parts to fix it.
Included with the car were a new pulse module and heater control valve (dealership had ordered but not installed).
I believe the dealer had ordered a SKREEM they could not get in.
Car was not completely reassembled when I received it. I have since put it back together along with replacing the above mentioned parts.
The dash was also partially disassembled but appears to have everything connected and working.
I have checked all the fuses.
I did complete the solder repair on the RCM.
The battery is good and I have power.

Please note that after the battery is disconnected and reconnected, it does not turn over (which does not match the symptoms for a SKREEM issue).

In a previous thread, it was mentioned to check the relays were working, so I pulled the RCM and checked that the relays. Two interior relays (closest to the large fuse) close when the key is in the "ON" position. It should be noted that the interior relay closest to large fuse will open back up after a second or two. Is this what should be expected? Is there a troubleshooting guide I should be referencing to help me?

Thanks in Advance,

Illini99

 

Welcome,

First, how many miles? There are many here that have way more knowledge than a dealership. The always cause more damage than good. It does not sound like the screem. The first thing I would do is send the RCM to DJ Tighe for a complete rebuild. It is only about $50.00 plus shipping. Do a search at the top of this page for RCM and you will find his contact info. If it does turn out to be the screem, send it to SOS Diagnostics and have it repaired. They have info on their site. Be thankful you got it out of the dealer. If you ever need work done, use an independent Mercedes or european repair shop. There cars are Mercedes SLK 320s mechanicly.

 

It has 40,XXX miles. Also, the dealership had left the battery connected that whole time it was and it was dead when I got it. I have read that the battery draining while in the car can cause issues. I did do the solder repair to the RCM. Are there other common issues with the RCM?

I was hoping to troubleshoot this issue before spending money, but I am not sure where to go from here.

 

I have it running now. Many thanks to DJ Tighe. I sent the RCM to him for repair and he replaced several of the relays and re-soldered it. When I reinstalled the repaired RCM, the car still would not start. I had pulled the battery when I took out the RCM and used jumper cables from the battery to the battery cables. I thought this might be an issue, so I put the battery on a trickle charger and the next evening installed the battery correctly and it started. My sons and I were very excited. It had been a better than 9 months since it had started.

Any advice on what work should be done on a car that has been sitting this long would be appreciated. We plan to change the oil and plugs. Not sure if anything else will be needed.

Also, I can't believe the dealership thought this was a SKREEM issue. That would have been an expensive fix that did not solve the problem.

Thanks,
Illini99

 

Our cars are to the point that they need fluids: Transmission, coolant, differential, brake, clutch and even power steering fluid. My SE has 54,000 on it now and it has had every fluid changed within the last four years.
It's almost time to bleed the brakes again.

Also, the plugs last and last in these cars. It would seem that you need plugs AND plug wires around 80,000. Not sure I'd do plugs right now if I were you.

 

Thanks PG. A quick question for those who have dealt with the alarm siren, can I just disconnect the siren and the car will still run OK?

 

Yes, just remove the cowl and unplug it. I would put tape on the plug to protect it in case you decide to replace it someday.

 

Thanks Zeracer for the quick answer. Another issue I am having is that the driving lights and marker lights will not shut off. I have the light switch in the off position and the headlights, taillights and turn signals work correctly.

 

Looking for some advise on the issue with the driving/marker lights staying on. I bought a new switch and still the same issue. I followed the wire from the upper outside lights in the headlight assembly (they are on also) until it went into a larger bundle of wires and did not find any issues with that wiring. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks in Advance,
Illini99

 

First, just to be sure, you have the light switch at the 12-oclock position (Just to be clear). Second, check the rear hatch lower bay under the rug and Styrofoam for water/moisture. The central locking module has a function for the lamps/alarm and when it gets wet all types of stuff happens. IF ANY water damaged that module (even if already dried up), you may be searching for problems for many tries/fails. If stored outside, you have a chance of finding water if you slip some (few sheets) paper between the foam and the metal sides (below the hatch rug). If the car is stored in a garage, it makes sense there may be prior water damage IF you didn't detect any water on the paper. I read a few problems about this a long time ago and proactively bored a hole in the two rubber plugs under the car rear that leads to the hatch area but this doesn't help anything if there is water damage there. IF you don't find water on the paper testing, you might have to remove the trim from both sides of the hatch and the lower rear of the hatch area. Taking out the foam section on the right side, there are two modules located at the right fender well area. Check them carefully for any water damage. It is a lot of work to get into that area if you remove those trim panels. I have heard of some just carefully cutting out the right foam section but the best is to remove the trim and just take it out (to check/inspect for any water intrusion/damage). Others may suggest the lamp control, I see you acquired one already that didn't help, but getting parts without doing some cost free steps is entirely up to you. The only thing I had to pay for removing all the trim (for access) is the MB type clips that are available pretty inexpensively. Good luck, OH, have you downloaded the service manual yet? That might help in troubleshooting or access to how to take the areas apart (that you decide on),


.

 

Thanks Ghost. We took apart the trunk this afternoon and it has clearly had water (it looks like a lot of water) in it at some point in time. The central locking module had a waterline on it about an inch up on one end. I suspect this is the problem. Would this also cause issues with the convertible top not working?

Thanks,
Illini99

 

To be honest, there are so many interactions between the top module, body module, ECU and security system - it is hard to say. The handshakes over the CAN BUS get pretty involved.

I'd replace your water damaged module and see what you have. Good news: the module in the trunk is not 'programmed' to the car, you can yank one from any car.

 

Glad you found the problem that many have had with this car leaking water into that cavity. JUST MAKE SURE YOU OPEN BOTH RUBBER PLUGS after you get another module (if there is no hope for it). Some members were able to clean it up/out but if there is too much damage on the inside you should just replace it. ONE other concern, watch out for the connector to the module. Water wicks up inside the wiring and ruins both the connector and wiring inside if it was high enough. A close inspection and visible noticing of where the water was/to might indicate if it was able to wick up into the connector. May I ask you to post some pictures of the module after you carefully open it up? Good luck in fixing this, it might cost quite a few bucks for a replacement (which is why you should closely inspect the insides of the module to see if it just got wet or has been wet for a while). Also, make sure that second module is OK, you might want to open it up also to see if any damage is present.


.

 

Car is now running and the lights do not stay on after replacing the central locking pump/module. We took it out this afternoon after getting some plates for it. The top still does not work, and the BAS/ESP light came on for a while, as well as the flashing fuel light. I am trying to run out the old gas in the car before adding any more, but we still have 3/8 of a tank. Both lights shut off after we shut the car off and restarted it. Is this a common issue?

Thanks,
Illini99

 

It is common if the CLPM has been wet, which is more prevalent on SRT6's than NA's, due to the wing attachment.