Hi!

I have an intermittent issue with my 2007 Crossfire, it has a manual transmission with ~74k miles.

The car will have a bunch of dash lights come on (see attached picture for details), the spoiler will go up without me being able to lower it back down, the spoiler button will also blink on and off.

The car will start and drive just fine, rpm gauge works fine, gas gauge seems fine, engine temp seems fine.

The window washing light is always on so idk if that is part of all the lights coming on or not and I believe the red light with person and seatbelt with the circle in the face might be the airbag light? It's usually always on also
Edit: I did a bad job and didn't put my seatbelt on when I took the picture that light goes out when it's on, also want to confirm that the brake light stays on even when the brake is not pulled.

I checked for engine codes and came back with nothing and I also disconnected the battery and let it sit for awhile and reconnected and it did not help.

I plan on pulling the RCM to inspect fuses/relays and touch up the solder joints when I am able (between houses right now and my stuff is at the other house).

Tried searching around for similar issues and found this forum post. The original poster never confirmed anybody's suggestions.
The user direwolf said in the linked post "No Speedo and Dash lit like a Christmas tree? Been there. It was the ABS module. 2¢". I'm not sure how to diagnose that the ABS is/isn't working, if someone could point me in the right direction?

Does anyone know of anything that might cause these symptoms? If more information is need please let me know what I could provide.

Thanks!

 

.


Check some posts about the brake light switch, also if your battery is failing that manifests itself with all types of system quirks. If the battery is older than say 4-5 years it probably needs replacing anyway. . Other than that I have no suggestions. Good luck!


.

 

I will look into that. My break lights come on when I hit them. Can this still be an issue if the break lights are working?

As for the battery, it's not very old and has a good charge. I charged it up a few days ago to make sure that wasn't an issue. Also tested the internal resistance of the battery by putting a load on it and the voltage didn't drop enough to suggest internal resistance was bad.

Edit: Checked battery and it's from 2019.

Thanks for the suggestion!

 

I got my RCM out today and looked it over. It appears to be in need of a solder reflow on a few different parts. I don't have my equipment right now to do it unfortunately but I will do it soon.

I also found that the copper track for the F1 fuse was pushed out. Could have been from me checking the fuses before taking the cover off to look at it. I can't know for sure.
F1 fuse being for the Traction Control possibly the issue but it worked fine for along time before opening or checking the fuses so It probably just happened from me checking them.

To my eyes the contacts of the relays all seem to not have any visible issues. I have a microscope I can look closer at the contacts at a later date.

I did notice that 3 of the connection pins were slightly brown colored but this could be normal. Maybe someone that has seen a few of these can comment on that?

There is also flux residue on the solder joints for the horn relay. Maybe from a previous repair?

Attached pictures at full scale so maybe they can be seen better. Hopefully they aren't to big!

 

I'm not even going to waste time reading this thread. If the speedometer is dead, along with all the other issues, I can tell you what is wrong: The Traction control relay's output is missing from the RCM.

It's the traction control fuse, or the relay contacts or the solder joints, period. Now, if the car is an automatic and I'm right, it won't come out of park without the special tool, but if it's a manual, then you can drive the car, but you have no antilock brakes or speedometer.

You can simulate this failure by pulling the traction control fuse and you will see what I'm getting at (directed towards everyone BUT Exoduss).

 

Ok, done editing my post - I mis-typed a few things....

 

Well I pulled my RCM and looked it over.

Checked all fuses and they are good. Three of the pins for the connectors were slightly brown and worried me until I figured out that they were just not connected to anything.

I found that the copper track for the F1 fuse (traction control) was pushed out making poor connection with the fuse. Unfortunately this was probably caused by me pulling and reinstalling the fuses to check them before taking it out of its housing.
After pushing the track back onto the fuse and reinstalling it I still have the same issues.

The board could use a solder reflow for sure and that is where I will be starting next. There was also evidence of flux on the horn relay area. Maybe previous doing, don't think it would come from the factory that way.

I couldn't see any visible issues with the relays. Will investigate further after I get the broken solder joints sorted.

Curious is there an Ohm range I could test the brake light switch for?

Thanks for the help

 

.


Clarification, I missed the reference to the speedometer not working (mentioned in the TITLE of the post). I did not miss the referenced post having like symptoms in the second to last paragraph. If the 'meat' (body) of the OP had mentioned his speedo not working, I would not have replied with either the brake switch or battery. Hope you get the issue solved Exoddus!


.

 

I agree with Mark, the RCM needs overhauling, especially the traction control relay which needs replacing.

 

Ok this is the third time posting this over the last couple days. I keep getting a moderator has to approve this message I guess because of the pictures.

I pulled the RCM and had a look at it. The fuses are all good. I pulled and checked them before taking the housing off to look at the relays and that must have caused one of the tracks of the copper to push down when I reinserted the F1 fuse because I put it back together and checked and it didn't fix my issue.

There are a few broken solder joints that I will be reflowing soon when I get to my soldering equipment hopefully fixing the issue.

All of the relays appear to be in good order, I couldn't see any pitting on the contacts with any of them. But if reflowing the solder joints doesn't fix my issue I will test this better. Maybe swap two of the relays.

Noted that there was flux on the back side of the horn relay from maybe a previous repair. Three of the connector pins were also a light brownish color and worried me for a minute until I figured out that they were not connected to anything in the connector.

Unfortunely I did forget to mention the speedometer problem in the body of my OP. Sorry about that.

 

Ok this is the fourth time posting this over the last couple days. I keep getting a moderator has to approve this message I guess because of the 4 pictures I was trying to attach to the post. I give up so here it is with no pictures.

I pulled the RCM and had a look at it. The fuses are all good. I pulled and checked them before taking the housing off to look at the relays and that must have caused one of the tracks of the copper to push down when I reinserted the F1 fuse because I put it back together and checked and it didn't fix my issue.

There are a few broken solder joints that I will be reflowing soon when I get to my soldering equipment hopefully fixing the issue.

All of the relays appear to be in good order, I couldn't see any pitting on the contacts with any of them. But if reflowing the solder joints doesn't fix my issue I will test this better. Maybe swap two of the relays.

Noted that there was flux on the back side of the horn relay from maybe a previous repair. Three of the connector pins were also a light brownish color and worried me for a minute until I figured out that they were not connected to anything in the connector.

Unfortunely I did forget to mention the speedometer problem in the body of my OP. Sorry about that.

 

Looking things over often reveals the issue. If looking things over does not reveal the issue, then it's time to get your voltmeter out and verify what you have at the connectors.
To do this, I often use a very sharp meter probe and press into the wires of the connectors, to verify I have output. A relay, a solder connection, contacts - all can LOOK good, but still be open.

The service manual (as poorly written as it is) will tell you what each pin of each connector is for.

All of your posts show up fine, including those with photos.

 

Wow I swear I can't see the posts that I made with pictures other than my OP. Maybe you and Valk can see them because you are Admin's/Mods? Or can everyone see them but me ha? My post count is currently 3 posts in my user profile and after this message will be 4 I'm guessing. If they all showed up my post count would be 8 after this post. Makes me feel crazy... Maybe my user account has some weird permission set or something who knows.

I will look into that I have some needle point leads at my other house.

Thanks for your help!

Edit: This is what I see for my thread if you are curious. I don't see any of the posts with pictures. https://i.imgur.com/a5mcWvs.jpeg

 

RCM needs resolder (you know this). But if the ABS/Dash lights and no Speedo persist: Clean battery ground to frame > Inspect and reseat fuses > Diag/Replace Wheel speed sensors > ABS Module.
This is a great video to understand/diag wheel speed sensors: This video explains why the Right Rear Wheel Sensor is the first to check/replace:
In my case. replacing all the wheel sensors did not correct the issue (which surprised me) and it finally was the ABS module itself. But you have to deal with the flowchart steps.
(ps.. its not the brake switch. when your brake switch goes (like mine eventually did) your brake lights are on all the time. thats it. ).

 

[QUOTE=direwolf

(ps.. its not the brake switch. when your brake switch goes (like mine eventually did) your brake lights are on all the time. thats it. ).[/QUOTE]

Not necessarily. The wing up with a warning light on can be caused by the brake light switch. However, a bad switch may not cause the rear brake lights to be on all the time. I had those symptoms, wing up with warning light, and the cruise control did not work, but my brake lights reacted normally. Replacing the brake light switch corrected the problem.
PS good video.

 

Awesome I will look into those wheel speed sensors if it's not my relay. And will check out the brake light switch. Does anyone know what a good resistance reading on the switch would be with what pins?

I had just a minute to check out my RCM and I reflowed the parts of the board that needed it and that didn't fix the issue.

Was looking at the wiring diagram from a 2004 crossfire manual and it seems the Engine Control Relay and the Traction System Relay get power from the same 2D pin and go straight to ground.

I turned the ignition on while being able to look at the relays and the engine control relay did come on but the traction system relay did not.

Next time I get to mess with it I will check the resistance of the coils on the relays to see what they are and perhaps inject power to the coil to see if it activates if the coil isn't OL.

Note: I did manually activate the traction relay when starting the car and the lights on the dash did go out but the spoiler still wouldn't go down.

Does anyone happen to have a copy of the 2007 crossfire workshop manual?

Thanks for all the help!

 

I just had the EXACT same situation/symptoms with mine about a month ago. I resoldered the pins on the RCM with no luck. All the relays were actuating at apparently the proper times.

So, per the instructions in this thread: [ https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-no-start.html ], I sent my RCM to DJ Tighe.

He reworked my RCM and found a bad traction control relay, which he replaced. Got the RCM back and my car has been fine since. From the day I sent it to the day I got it back was about a week.

 

Since you can pull the RCM and work on it and if the Traction Control Relay may be causing this problem have you taken that relay apart and looked for any burning at the points? Here's a video on taking the individual relays apart and polishing the points with a little emery cloth if there is a little burning on them...