Cranks well - no start. Will start perfectly with fuel into induction
No sound at pump and putting 12v from power pack onto the pump- nothing, seems dead -
These worked fine - Opened the RCM, turn the key to the ON position. For 2 seconds the 3 middle relays should close. After 2 seconds the fuel relay will open, leaving the other 2 closed. Also getting battery voltage between pins 3 & 5 on relay
However no voltage at the pump terminals. Fuses all seem to be ok.
Car had been sitting for 6 months, just put new battery in, had the passenger footwell water issue that corroded pins in the amp unit etc.

Question is there any wiring loom connections in that area from there to the pump that could be affecting the 'no power' to the pump or suggestions?
Thanks

 

wiring diagrams can be had here for free download (if you haven't already) Download
Be certain relay contacts are clean; check grounds. There are fuses on the RCM and in the under hood box; have you checked both places?
Check continuity with ohm meter between RCM wiring and pump. Rodents chew wires in a single night.
I believe pump only runs a few seconds and then shuts down unless car starts; check fuel pressure at rail fitting on engine.

 

Many thanks for the reply, will have a look at these next. Fuses all appear good, both in the fusebox and in the RMC. Motors only done 40K, inside the RCM is spotless, have re done the solder etc.
No pressure at the schrader valve - no sign of rodents Yes the pump should run for 2/3 seconds but didn't, the relay closed a few secs as it should and gave out 12.8 V when I tested. So I did the same test on the + / - supply at the pump, showed nothing. Sort of accepted the pump is possibly shot, more surprised with the lack of V at the pump terminal even when primed for those 2/3 seconds?
Will run a separate temp wire from relay to pump end of loom and re-investigate etc. Cheers Mike

 

mikec212, I believe you will not find +12 volts on the pump UNLESS the RCM relay is CLOSED. If it is open, you'll not see anything.


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Yes I'm aware of that - I did say I got battery voltage when the fuel relay closed as it should for the 2/3 seconds - but no voltage for the 2/3 seconds at the pump end.

 

Sorry, I missed that part. Sleep deprivation is NOT FUN! Hope you find the culprit soon.


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So continuity all good + & earth - 12v at the pump cables for the 2/3 seconds as required - must have had a bad connection when last did this test. Anyway new pump and filter ordered and all should be good to go.
Thanks Mike

 

mikes212, in previous post you said zero pressure in the fuel rail. That should not happen when the system is running correctly. After you shut the engine off a check value will hold pressure in the fuel rail. There has been some discussion as to the check value being in the filter or the pump ( I forgot what the finally conclusion), anyways at your first start up after installation of your new filter and pump expect hesitation until the rail is up to full pressure, about 55~60 lbs, after that you should be back to normal. You can always check pressure on the rail at the schrader type value located on the front right side of the rail.

 

The check valve is in the filter, it maintains fuel pressure at the injectors.

 

thanks all - will find out at the weekend hopefully when parts arrive, new pump and filter, . Cars not done any miles for 10 years apart from a few start ups every 6 months or so!!
Pretty confident will be all sorted then.
Cheers
Mike