Sensor readings appear to be operating properly, although I have not had the scan tool on with live data while it is acting up. I pulled an intake today after work for $35 at my pull a part yard and gave it a thorough cleaning. So that will be going on tomorrow along with new gaskets. I am also pulling and inspecting the spark plugs and checking the gap.

Also I was looking at my receipt from the shop and they recorded the codes that they pulled, which were different from what my scan tool had pulled.

P0133-81, P0153-82, P0137-67, P0137-195.
I can find the primary part of the codes, but never seen the dash and extra digits.... Anybody have any insight into this?

 

Mr. Svtmerc,

did you happen too see where the shop mechanic connected the smoke machine? I want too look for a vacuum leak on my 05 limited roadster, but I'm not sure where to introduce the smoke.

sorry I don't have any suggestions for your situation.


thanks much
mdkeehn13

 

No, I have no idea where it was hooked up. But Sealing around the brake booster hose did nothing, and installing another intake manifold has resulted in zero change as well. I am at a complete loss on this turd. Im about to just light it on fire so its no longer a problem.

 

thanks svtmerc.

But don't give up. !!!!
have you talked with pizzaguy, mccubim, Hayden xfclifford one80. I'm sure I'm missing some experts but they know EVERYTHING

 

oh ya and Brian Hoffman

 

I messaged Brian.... haven't heard back though.

 

Hi Svtmerc,
Since the suspicion is a vacuum leak, have you tried hooking a vacuum gauge to one of the lines and observing vacuum as it runs? If it randomly fluctuates, or doesn't change as a function of RPM, then it's a leak. If it stays steady at a given speed and the vacuum increases as a function of RPM (highest vacuum (most negative psi) at high rpm, lowest vacuum at idle), then it's something else. (Maybe the live data feature of a scan tool has vacuum, but I would check against a mechanical sensor). Just a thought since the spray around everything is really only a one sided test - if something happens due to the spray, then it's confirmed. But if nothing happens, then you just may not of found the right spot, or the leak is small. BTW, when you were spraying around, did you do it at idle, or at something like 3000 RPM? You have a better chance of finding something at higher RPMs.
-Jerry

 

I had sprayed all over with ether and not come across anything I could notice. I watched the live data of the MAP sensor and haven't seen any oddities. Albeit I have been unable to observe data as it was acting up though.
After installing the intake yesterday it stalled in my driveway at idle in park twice even.

 

if that occurred with a cold engine then you might suspect the auxiliary air system is not functioning properly. Open Loop. Keep a eye on the MAP and MAF relationship while running.
Are you certain the evaporative purge solenoid and it's vacuum lines are ok?
If all else fails, it gets you back to the O2 sensors. The codes given by the shop are there for a reason.

 

The secondary air system appears to be operating. I know the blower kicked on and i know the air valves work, i sucked on the vacuum end and plugged it on both and confirmed that the valves both operate correctly. I cannot confirm much about the evap though. Not sure how to go about testing that.

 

Normally the vap system will set DTC of their own. But give it a test yourself by disconnecting the vacuum lines at the valve and do a suck/pressure test of your own. Check the valve itself as it can leak internally.

In a earlier post you asked about the suffix numbers on the DTC. They came about in 2013 with enhanced info. Thing is I'm not sure if our older cars using CANBUS will give the correct suffix numbers. ASK YOUR FRIEND AT THE SHOP IF THOSE SUFFIX NUMBERS CAN BE RELIED ON IN OUR OLDER CARS AND WHAT THEY MEAN. Sorry I can't interpret the numbers shown in your post as they do not fit the info I have.

 

hey, guess I should have mentioned these great guys whole name so you could find them.
and they are great posting on the FB CROSSFIRE TECH PAGES.
eric hayden
bob mccubbin
the others I can't remember THIER whole name. And there are several that take THIER time to help.

also do you have access to a OBDII
SCANNER THAT IS CROSSFIRE CAPABLE?
I have a XTOOL D7 and it works really well on my XF

 

Have you tried removing the oil cap when it is running and seeing if runs way worse or if it runs the same? I think that will help confirm whether or not you have a vacuum leak.

 

So I disconnected the EVAP line from the solenoid on the engine side and tried to suck and blow.... nothing.
I hotwired a cordless drill battery to it and physically heard it operate. Then I tried to suck and got a mouth full of liquid gas!
I can only assume this is not normal since it is supposed to carry vapors.
Which brings to mind on 2 separate occasions I had a small puddle of gas under my car after it sitting overnight, but the tech checked my fuel lines and never seen any signs of leakage.

 

You just may have found your problem. Bad EVAP systems can give O2 sensor codes. Right you are! That line running to the rear of the car should be open so you can blow through it or suck from it. You may get some taste of gas, but it is only vapor NOT GASOLINE. Your charcoal filter canister is full of gas for some reason. It seems from your testing the purge valve is working, but perhaps the shut off valve on top the canister is not. If you take the cover off the right rear where the fuel pump and filter are you will see the canister mounted against the cars body. You remove it by sliding it to the left. When you replaced the filter and pump I hope you got the discharge lines in the correct place. Discharrge from the pump goes to the perimeter of the filter, and discharge from the perimeter of the filter goes to the engine. At least that is the way it works on a Mercedes filter. The ports should be marked. This is also the reason why you should not push fuel into the tank; When the nozzle shuts off, pull it out and hang it it up. Do not force more fuel into the tank.
The shut off (vent valve) valve is removable and easy to test. Some say you can dry and reuse a canister, but don't know if the charcoal will do an efficient job after that.
Strange you didn't get some PO4?? DTC, but those codes you did get was a clue.

 

I have gotten a P0466 code on occasion but with the other codes as well, after clearing it wouldn't return every time the p2096 and p2099.

 

I did disconnect the solenoid this morning and we'll see how the drive home is tonight.

 

I tried finding those codes in the Crossfire service manual, but they are not there. The 2 indicates a manufacture specific code, but nothing in the service manuals. Have you tried scans as both Mercedes R170 ( 2003 SLK 320) and a Chrysler Crossfire. Curious what your scan does when the model is different.
Code P0466 doesn't show up either, but P0446 refers to problem with the canister shut off valve, or the purge valve stuck open. you tested the purge valve and it was working ok, so that would indicate the shut off valve at the canister.

 

Here are them as they appeared on my scan tool.
And you were correct, the P0446 iP0446t was up, the 466 was either a typo or dyslexia.... lol.

But my drive home after having the purge valve disconnected was uneventful, so that was a positive mark so far. I only had a evap circuit open code and misfire cylinder 2 code... I noticed bank 1 o2 seems low to be a bit low on voltage... im guessing i need to pull the cylinder 2 spark plugs and look at them. Hopefully I'm finally getting somewhere!

 

Definitely positive steps in the right direction; May your drive today be uneventful!