Okay that makes sense. I just have to drill out the pin. I called the locksmith...he is on the way --- hopefully he can drill it out because I have had no luck at all.

 

You dont have to do all of that at the same time.

First you drill, then after you're done drilling. You remove the assembly. Not remove the assembly as you're drilling. Hope that makes sense.

 

And I drill until when? Until the pin falls out? until it disappears? until it's flat?
Does it matter if I accidently drill into the metal around the pin by mistake.

 

I sent this in a PM as well. It shouldn't degrade the integrity of the metal tube if you enlarged the hole a little bit by accident. Where are you located? If you're close to Seattle, WA I could help in person.

I'm assuming that you have loosened the bolt on the strap clamp that is to the right of the pin. The pin is harden and free spinning. So if you don't put enough pressure on it, it will just spin with the drill bit. You have to put a bit more pressure than you would if you were drilling into wood. After drilling for a little bit, grab the assembly and try turning it downwards. the key hole towards the floor. If it turns then it's enough drilling. If not drill a bit more and try turning the whole assembly again.

 

That was so helpful. How exactly would I turn the keyhole to the floor? When I do that..it seems like the top dash blocks it. I have unscrewed the 1 screw but it still stops it from turning down. Also I have noticed that I can verrrrrryyyy slightly press the pin in just a bit but I guess not enough for it to come out. When I am ready to pull it out...do I turn it forward or backwards? I understand I pull to the right but which way do i turn it?

 

looking in from the passenger side, turn to the left/counter-clockwise. You should be able to lift up the top dash panel a bit to give it room.

 

Okay. I got it. It's just the drilling that's killing me. Maybe I just need a small drill bit. I am in Los Angeles by the way.

 

Yea, that pin has to go in so you can twist and pull the whole assembly outta there.

It seems to me I just pushed the pin in, or it went in as I turned the key.... but either way, if the key won't turn, they say you gotta drill it down until you can get the assembly out.


AND KNOW THIS, I had an AWFUL time getting it outta there! I remember sitting in the driver's seat and, using vice grips, twisting and pulling on the damn thing. By kinda pulling the assembly down towards the floor a slight bit, and pulling it out and turning it ---- all at the same time, it suddenly came out.

Putting it back in was easier than I expected. Somehow.

YOu are gonna feel great when it's done. And from what I have gathered - once you get thru this, it won't ever happen again.

 

I cant see your pictures to your tutorial......hmm are they still up??

 

Check my signature for the link to my pdf tutorial

 

Just wondering if you got it fixed.

 

Thank goodness this information is here in detail!!! My 6 yr old convertible has had a sticky key problem for the last two years and has now completely seized up. Managed to get it towed back to the house so I could look up the forum.

Ok, so tomorrow (Monday) I will be conducting open Crossfire surgery. At least I'll save myself the trouble of being robbed (again) by the bloody European car mechanics here.

Will post feedback on how it goes.

Brizbaby

 

Yep, happened that way to me too. BTW, I had to use a Dremel Tool to grid out the button holding the ignition in place, but once that is done, you are home free.

 

Righto. The saga so far...

Tried drilling out the pin with a 1/4 drill bit. No luck.

Went to Bunnings and bought a 10 piece grinder bit pack for the drill.

I have now ground down the two coarse grinder bits trying to reduce the locking pin. At one point I thought I'd up the speed on the drill and have more effect - nup. Just grinds the bits down faster. I will keep perservering but I am now going back to a super sharpened 1/4 drill bit.

Pray for me.

 

Going to Bunnings now to buy a bloody Dremel and 500 grinding bits.

Does the flexible hand piece for the Dremel make a difference? It costs $60 here so I don't want to buy it if the hand set alone will work.

Thanks,

Brizbaby

 

Keep at it.

I tried the dremel first with the grinding stones and it did nothing. I was able to do it with the 1/4" drill bit.

Too bad you guys aren't closer, I would be willing to help in person.

 

YESSSS!!!!!

Finally, the dremel thing with one of the grinding bits chomped enough of the pin off for me to spin it and pull the assembly out!! Well, hubbie pulled it out with a bit more muscle than I have.

Can't believe how quickly we then removed the other pin and spring, and put the whole thing back together again. Car started first go! I drove her straight into the garage as she's been sitting in the driveway since Saturday and she's never been out in the weather that long before.

Now I have a dremel for any other fixes and a whole lot of experience in stripping down the drivers side panels. I had to reverse all of the photos given my baby is a right hand drive, but it was so simple that I am now convinced I will do the rest of the maintenance and repairs the girls need in future.

Our eternal thanks to all on the Forum. and yes Rekcah, it would be great if you or other Forum members were closer, but you wouldn't like our wet weather at the moment!

Brizbaby

 

congrats on getting the job done.

It rains 90% of the year here in Seattle.

 

I would appreciate some help on how I can get a copy (Print it out) of the Stiky Ignition fix. I was a member of this forum in 2005 but had to re register to get back in and this is my first post. My 2004 Crossfire ignition is about to leave me in a parking lot somewhere and I need the fix but the post i see has no pictures. -- Any help is appreciated. -- Thanks Paul (PENXFIRE)

 

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post504963