Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
I guess I stand corrected... Selbyl
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Andersen AFB, Guam
Age: 22
Posts: 279
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I remember it happened to me, I went to the hardware store and got a titanium drill bit. Haven't had the problem since.
I guess I stand corrected... Selbyl
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Andersen AFB, Guam
Age: 22
Posts: 279
User Gallery
I remember it happened to me, I went to the hardware store and got a titanium drill bit. Haven't had the problem since.
The **** you can learn on this forum and to think we lived quite comfortably without knowing this stuff before.
I think someone else said they used a carbide drill on the pin.
That's what he said alright but drills are not made from titanium, they are high speed steel drills that are plated with titanium nitride. So he used a steel drill plated with titanium nitride (TiN), these are the gold colored drills you find lately.
The **** you can learn on this forum and to think we lived quite comfortably without knowing this stuff before.
I think someone else said they used a carbide drill on the pin.
The **** you can learn on this forum and to think we lived quite comfortably without knowing this stuff before.
I think someone else said they used a carbide drill on the pin.
Knowledge is power.. embrace and welcome it..
Hello, i am brand new to this forum. I have only had my 04' crossfire for six days, and i already have the sticky key problem. As said i would sit there for like 15 mins to try and get it to start, then it finally will. But now i think it is totally locked. So i came here, downloaded the PDF, and got to work. Since my key wont turn i was wondering if i have to drill or push the pin in, i have pictures for reference. Thanks!
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If the key doesn't turn you have to drill. If this just happened try to get it to turn a few more times before you get the dremel/drill out as it is much easier if you don't have to kill the pin. Chances are the previous owner ignored the signs that it was gonna fail and now you're stuck with the ugly job
Drill the pin so you can remove the whole thing from the car. Once it is out you just center punch the little door and remove the stuck locking pin/spring. Put it back in the car, turn key and drive away. You do not have to do anything with the tumblers.
Thanks to u all !
Yes, the best thing to use is a dremel tool !
For me the drill sucked . the pin kept moving.
AFter i took out the cylinder and took out the spring and the the other part that needs to be remove.
IT FINALLY TURNED!!
Problem fixed !
Make sure everyone follows the steps in the pdf !
Also very key important !
Make sure u connect the halo ring the one that surrounds the key hole
THE CAR WILL NOT TURN! IF NOT CONNECTED!
THAT CABLE HAS TO DO WITH YOUR ALARM SYSTEM, I THINK LOL
Y IM BRINGING THIS UP IS BECAUSE IT HAPPEN TO ME AFTER ALL THE DRILLING AND FORCING IT FELL OFF.
A
IT IS BEHIND THE CLUSTER SO JUST REMOVE THE 4 SCREWS TWIST TO ONE SIDE ; TAKE A LOOK AND ULL SEE A BLACK BOX WITH A CABLE IN IT. NEXT TO IT THERES WHERE THAT CABLE BELONGS
FOLLOW THE SPES ! IT WORKS ! THANK YOU ALL!
ANY QUESTIONS SEND ME PM!
Yes, the best thing to use is a dremel tool !
For me the drill sucked . the pin kept moving.
AFter i took out the cylinder and took out the spring and the the other part that needs to be remove.
IT FINALLY TURNED!!
Problem fixed !
Make sure everyone follows the steps in the pdf !
Also very key important !
Make sure u connect the halo ring the one that surrounds the key hole
THE CAR WILL NOT TURN! IF NOT CONNECTED!
THAT CABLE HAS TO DO WITH YOUR ALARM SYSTEM, I THINK LOL
Y IM BRINGING THIS UP IS BECAUSE IT HAPPEN TO ME AFTER ALL THE DRILLING AND FORCING IT FELL OFF.
A
IT IS BEHIND THE CLUSTER SO JUST REMOVE THE 4 SCREWS TWIST TO ONE SIDE ; TAKE A LOOK AND ULL SEE A BLACK BOX WITH A CABLE IN IT. NEXT TO IT THERES WHERE THAT CABLE BELONGS
FOLLOW THE SPES ! IT WORKS ! THANK YOU ALL!
ANY QUESTIONS SEND ME PM!
Use a dremel tool with a grinding stone.
trust me youll be done in a minute!
personally the drill dint work for me the pin kept moving.
then take it out.
remove the pin like instructed in the PDF !
stick your key in it !
BAM! it works sounds a little hard but be patience take one step at a time.
youll be ok!
follow the steps in the pdf.
use a dremel!
what your doing is grinding it down enough kinda even so it can come off. then u take of the spring and the other small object like instructed in the PDF!
use a dremel!
what your doing is grinding it down enough kinda even so it can come off. then u take of the spring and the other small object like instructed in the PDF!
That part has 2 springs that can be taken off.
I actually took of the top part of the dashboard .
But it was hard to put back on.
Did u remove the screw. the one u remove with a 10 mm socket
the one thats wrapped around the switch?
like it says on the pdf ? that would give u some space also
I actually took of the top part of the dashboard .
But it was hard to put back on.
Did u remove the screw. the one u remove with a 10 mm socket
the one thats wrapped around the switch?
like it says on the pdf ? that would give u some space also
Best way is to telescope the wheel all the way back and then it is easy to see the spring loaded door that is blocking your view. You can carefully slide it back up towards the steering wheel and tape it there so it doesn't get in the way. It is very fragile though so be careful, mine completely fell out but I just said f it as I was frustrated enough at that point. Basically it is only there to hide the ugly column when the wheel is telescoped out, if you have it pushed all the way in normally you won't be able to tell its gone
No, the BEST way is to fix it BEFORE it jams up!
I WISH we could get the word out to people to warn them of what HELL they are in for if they wait for the key to act up!
If you don't wait, it's a not-bad-and-almost-fun fix! Hell, even *I* fixed mine!
(Yes, I am the poorest excuse for a "shade tree mechanic" you will ever meet!)
I WISH we could get the word out to people to warn them of what HELL they are in for if they wait for the key to act up!
If you don't wait, it's a not-bad-and-almost-fun fix! Hell, even *I* fixed mine!
Hi, everybody.
I had this problem on my Mercedes I made evrything on hard way, because my key was totaly stuck :
I drilled the pin,
remove the ignition part
after that I removed that spring and big pin uhder that metal lid
But my key still didn't turn at all
Can somebody help me pleasse.
May be I must order new Ignition part, I don't know what to do.
Thank you !
I had this problem on my Mercedes I made evrything on hard way, because my key was totaly stuck :
I drilled the pin,
remove the ignition part
after that I removed that spring and big pin uhder that metal lid
But my key still didn't turn at all
Can somebody help me pleasse.
May be I must order new Ignition part, I don't know what to do.
Thank you !
Hi, everybody.
I had this problem on my Mercedes I made evrything on hard way, because my key was totaly stuck :
I drilled the pin,
remove the ignition part
after that I removed that spring and big pin uhder that metal lid
But my key still didn't turn at all
Can somebody help me pleasse.
May be I must order new Ignition part, I don't know what to do.
Thank you !
I had this problem on my Mercedes I made evrything on hard way, because my key was totaly stuck :
I drilled the pin,
remove the ignition part
after that I removed that spring and big pin uhder that metal lid
But my key still didn't turn at all
Can somebody help me pleasse.
May be I must order new Ignition part, I don't know what to do.
Thank you !
Be prepared to cut your old part to remove a plastic switch. This was a pin and if you force the plastic switch you will break it.. Mercedes engineers deserve a nobel for this stupid design.
This is the first time on this forum. Hopefully it can provide me with valuable information.
I just paid $2100 to have the ignition drilled out and two new keys made by the dealer. I now have a new problem. The hydraulic actuator which locks the doors and trunk has shorted out and wires show signs of corrosion due to leakage thru convertible window. Dealer wants $7000 to replace the harness and $1100 for hydraulic unit.
Where is hydraulic unit located on the right side of the truck space & has anyone had this problem? Looking for help on getting it fixed. Will look for unit and harness from junk yard as possible solution.
I just paid $2100 to have the ignition drilled out and two new keys made by the dealer. I now have a new problem. The hydraulic actuator which locks the doors and trunk has shorted out and wires show signs of corrosion due to leakage thru convertible window. Dealer wants $7000 to replace the harness and $1100 for hydraulic unit.
Where is hydraulic unit located on the right side of the truck space & has anyone had this problem? Looking for help on getting it fixed. Will look for unit and harness from junk yard as possible solution.
wow! on the key.
mine cost me "0",, did it myself ,going by this thread.
as for the hyd.system, I don't have convertible so I can't help.
maybe do a search and/or set up a separate thd. for the hyd system jim
mine cost me "0",, did it myself ,going by this thread.
as for the hyd.system, I don't have convertible so I can't help.
maybe do a search and/or set up a separate thd. for the hyd system jim
This is the first time on this forum. Hopefully it can provide me with valuable information.
I just paid $2100 to have the ignition drilled out and two new keys made by the dealer. I now have a new problem. The hydraulic actuator which locks the doors and trunk has shorted out and wires show signs of corrosion due to leakage thru convertible window. Dealer wants $7000 to replace the harness and $1100 for hydraulic unit.
Where is hydraulic unit located on the right side of the truck space & has anyone had this problem? Looking for help on getting it fixed. Will look for unit and harness from junk yard as possible solution.
I just paid $2100 to have the ignition drilled out and two new keys made by the dealer. I now have a new problem. The hydraulic actuator which locks the doors and trunk has shorted out and wires show signs of corrosion due to leakage thru convertible window. Dealer wants $7000 to replace the harness and $1100 for hydraulic unit.
Where is hydraulic unit located on the right side of the truck space & has anyone had this problem? Looking for help on getting it fixed. Will look for unit and harness from junk yard as possible solution.
Riptooth should be Rippedoff.
The lock issue is a common one and is caused when water leaks into the well where the pneumatic (not hydraulic) unit is located as you have found.
The unit can be obtained from a wrecker and is not necessarily from a Crossfire.
Use the part number (click) to get a new one, eBay may be a source as well. Do not buy the Chrysler part new, it will be a Mercedes part and you will pay dearly for Chrysler part number label on it. Obviously the wires may be damaged, but only the terminals are normally replaced. See the fix here. (click)
After soaking you for the ignition the dealer figures he has a live one and will soak you for more than the worth of the car in a couple of installments.
Last edited by onehundred80; Jul 20, 2013 at 12:19 PM.



