Got it! Thanks! I think I'm the 3rd owner of my car. Is there any way I can tell if the fix has been done on my car?

 

Remove fuse box cover, driver's side of dash (you must open the car door to see it).
Does the inside of the cover say "Sticky key"? If so, it was done. If not, get to it BEFORE it locks up.

 

UPDATE
NEWEST PDF FILE AS OF JUNE 1 , 2013
The new PDF is version 5

MODERATOR NOTE:
See post 1128 for V6 of the PDF - DO NOT USE OR DOWNLOAD V5![/QUOTE]

Surely the Mod can straighten these last two lines out as well as the edited date to make it a little clearer.

The PDF should be on the first page, in this instance the first post was written by someone other than the writer of the PDF who gets little acknowledgement for his work.

The link to the obsolete version #5 is on this page but the current PDF version is in post #1128, confusing.

 

Dave,

It's fixed. See post 1!

 

Great job.

 

I just wanted to add something here. I found this thread extremely helpful, but… I did the fix first and it not fix the sticky key issue. I then replaced the whole locking mechanism. This still did not fix. I then started inspecting the key cylinder itself and noticed the wafers were not retracting 100%. A couple would stick out just a “hair”. I purchased a new cylinder and had a locksmith match the new cylinder to my existing keys (I did not want multiple keys). This fixed my issue. The symptom was identical to that described in this thread but another cause is possible. When you have things apart check the cylinder and make sure all the wafers retract completely just to be sure.

 

Yours is about only the 3rd I have heard of since 2013.

 

Awesome Video on fixing this on YouTube posted by Paul! (Search Crossfire sticky key and it will show up). Just preformed the fix on my newly acquired 2004 crossfire. Couple of notes, my 2004 has a telescoping steering wheel and the locking pin that needs depressed to slide the ignition to the right for removal was not visible. However, I was able to take a wide standard screwdriver and place it between the plastic steering column housing and that metal band with the bolt on the bottom that gets loosened a bit and twist it to push the plastic back a bit to find it but it was right there. Then I just took a tiny screwdriver and slipped it up there to depress the pin while pulling the ignition to the right… No need to remove the steering column housing and such to get to it. If you have this housing the first thing you’ll say when you look for it is “OH ____!” But it is right there just to the left of where that piece of plastic is hiding it. One of the things that took me a while to figure out was getting the tumbler and lock back in the ignition with the key in the #2 position. I kept popping it all in and could get the locking ring on flush but the key wouldn't turn. I could put the cylinder/tumbler in the ignition with the locking ring off and the key would turn fine but not with the locking ring on. I then finally realized that in order for the key to turn you have to twist the locking ring back into it's initial position. It will slide on with the one flat side of the locking ring in the 7 o'clock position but you can't turn the key until you twist the locking ring so the flat side is back at the 12 o'clock position. This certainly fixed my issue which was having to work quite a bit to get the key to turn to the #2, further positions. As others have said… IT MOST LIKELY IS NOT THE CYLINDER/TUMBLER... With the key inserted my cylinder/tumbler was perfectly round with no wafers extended at all so one could squirt all the WD 40 and whatever else in there through the key hole, pound on it all day, and it would accomplish absolutely nothing. Do this fix before your key sticks to the point you can't get it into the #2 position as once that happens it's a bigger PITA having to drill out that pin. Also, don't pay a fortune to have a dealer replace your ignition with a new one as you’ll just have the same problem in no time again. The design is defective and can only be fixed by eliminating the problem in the design.

 

You are one of the last of hundreds, thousands?, who have done this fix, you seem to have had more trouble doing it than most. The PDF on the fix is very easy to follow.

 

They did change the design after 2004 - 2005 model years and never go to a chrysler dealer for anything as they will just make things worse.

 

If it ain't broke, I'm not one to try and fix it. It broke @ 17 years of age, so I fixed it. Took me 3 hours in and out.

 

After an epic struggle, my ignition key assembly is sitting on the kitchen counter (no wife)
Had to grind down the release lock pin.
The key was stuck in 0 or 1 position,
I could not remove the black key tumbler

The key is now out and I can rotate the tumbler to all positions.
Should not the key spring back to run after going to start and releasing the key?

Before re-installing the key assembly, I would like to do a "is every thing working OK"
Could someone be kind enough to refer me to a post number the includes a check list.
Do I have to worry about the locking pin that I ground down?

TY Rupert

 

Went through the whole tutorial and put the car back together and now the key turns but the car doesn't start. Initially it started and then turn itself off in a few seconds. Now it just doesn't start at all. Any ideas?

 

I see this is your first post. I don't have many posts here but you need to share with those who really know these cars what your problems were that led you to believe the Sticky Key Fix was the answer to your problem. The Sticky Key fix will fix a sticky or stuck key and nothing more. If you had starting issues that weren't related to a stuck or sticky key you fixed one known problem these cars have but you may not have fixed the primary problem that was causing your no-start issues. What was going on with the car that caused you to think the Sticky Key fix would remedy it? The more info you provide the more people here who are way more knowledgeable than I am may be able to diagnose your problem. When you did the sticky key fix were you sure to put that wired transponder/code reading ring back around the ignition that you had to pull and let dangle to take ignition out?

 

I did have the sticky key problem and the tutorial fixed that. But apparently, after I fixed that, the care started for ten seconds and then turned itself off.
After three tried it wouldn't start at all. We were dumbfounded because the key now turned. I called my brother and he said it was a safety or alarm issue
with Chryslers and he said to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and the key will reset. We tried that and it started right up! Thanks for your help!

 

That's great to know.

 

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Hello OneHundred80,

That is a great, well documented procedure to fix the sticky key problem. I just bought a 2004 Crossfire with only 79K miles in beautiful condition. It has the same key sticking problems. I was wondering what happens to the pin, is it removed? Don’t want to worry it might somehow get jammed up while driving and lock up the steering.
many thanks for the procedure and your possible response. Lloyd (aka Heloguy)

 

Take out the pin and spring, toss them away, put the cover back on and you are done

 

Great! So that means when the key is removed I can turn the steering wheel and it will not try to lock? (If so - then it’s perfect)