N/A 74mm Throttle Body Upgrade Guide
Hello fellow x fire ers.when i reused the stock elbow it was recommended to sand down the inside two fin looking ridges.to be honest i ended up using a silicone 90 degree elbow right off the larger trottle body,as well as mounting the filters ,or filter ,on the front side of the radiator with a k&n waterproof bag like cover.I noticed the new trottle body added as much or more power than the entire cold air set up.guess thats why it is highly recommended to do both. !! !!whatever!! !! you do do ,if you have thoughts of removing the intake manifold be careful,i have heard of several problems getting them to seal correctly,for youre own sake leave the extent of upgrades no futher past the tb.bye
when i changed my tb the idle was rough for bout 150 miles till the computer readjusted to the change in afr.you will not get a chk engine code,just the engine readjusting for couple hundred miles. i know this was posted late but ill let it run since this is a very common issue.bye
Changed my throttle body and maf a week ago.
Around 450 miles and I still have rough idle, sluggish low rpm, and rough lower rpm under 1,500 rpm.
Shouldn't the computer have readjusted by now?
Waited to change oil till after I changed the throttle body and good thing I did when I got it changed Wednesday there was a faint gas smell in the oil.
When I installed the new oring, I coated oring lightly with Permatex blue when I installed. It will keep the oring in place till the throttle body is instaled, instead of the trial and error method.
Around 450 miles and I still have rough idle, sluggish low rpm, and rough lower rpm under 1,500 rpm.
Shouldn't the computer have readjusted by now?
Waited to change oil till after I changed the throttle body and good thing I did when I got it changed Wednesday there was a faint gas smell in the oil.
When I installed the new oring, I coated oring lightly with Permatex blue when I installed. It will keep the oring in place till the throttle body is instaled, instead of the trial and error method.
No, I installed the new oring when I installed the throttle body.
Just posting a easy way to hold the oring in place, instead of trying to set it in place without anything and running the chance of it popping out of place installing the throttle body.
Just put a dab on your finger and coat the oring lightly before installing it, and there will not be any problems with the oring.
Just posting a easy way to hold the oring in place, instead of trying to set it in place without anything and running the chance of it popping out of place installing the throttle body.
Just put a dab on your finger and coat the oring lightly before installing it, and there will not be any problems with the oring.
Changed my throttle body and maf a week ago.
Around 450 miles and I still have rough idle, sluggish low rpm, and rough lower rpm under 1,500 rpm.
Shouldn't the computer have readjusted by now?
Waited to change oil till after I changed the throttle body and good thing I did when I got it changed Wednesday there was a faint gas smell in the oil.
When I installed the new oring, I coated oring lightly with Permatex blue when I installed. It will keep the oring in place till the throttle body is instaled, instead of the trial and error method.
Around 450 miles and I still have rough idle, sluggish low rpm, and rough lower rpm under 1,500 rpm.
Shouldn't the computer have readjusted by now?
Waited to change oil till after I changed the throttle body and good thing I did when I got it changed Wednesday there was a faint gas smell in the oil.
When I installed the new oring, I coated oring lightly with Permatex blue when I installed. It will keep the oring in place till the throttle body is instaled, instead of the trial and error method.
I would not recommend using any sealant on the O-ring, O-rings seal by getting deformed due to the pressure pushing it into a corner, sealants can make the O-ring unable to move in some areas and leak. Any sealant on the butting faces could allow air to leak inthe areas lacking sealant.
My old NA ran like a charm with the new MAF and TB from the start, others had problems.
Just a very little on oring, enough to hold it in place. Not a hefty bead all around.
Just a small amount on finger rubed on oring to make it sticky.
Done this many many times on various projects with 0 problem.
Didn't you 180 change the tb only and not the larger maf housing?
Yes I know oil can have a smell to it after long.
But this seemed more then usual.
My problem is not the seal, just improper air fuel ratio, at lower rpm.
Just a small amount on finger rubed on oring to make it sticky.
Done this many many times on various projects with 0 problem.
Didn't you 180 change the tb only and not the larger maf housing?
Yes I know oil can have a smell to it after long.
But this seemed more then usual.
My problem is not the seal, just improper air fuel ratio, at lower rpm.
No, figured a few hundred miles it would be calculated by ecu.
But might have to.
But might have to.
Just a very little on oring, enough to hold it in place. Not a hefty bead all around.
Just a small amount on finger rubed on oring to make it sticky.
Done this many many times on various projects with 0 problem.
Didn't you 180 change the tb only and not the larger maf housing?
Yes I know oil can have a smell to it after long.
But this seemed more then usual.
My problem is not the seal, just improper air fuel ratio, at lower rpm.
Just a small amount on finger rubed on oring to make it sticky.
Done this many many times on various projects with 0 problem.
Didn't you 180 change the tb only and not the larger maf housing?
Yes I know oil can have a smell to it after long.
But this seemed more then usual.
My problem is not the seal, just improper air fuel ratio, at lower rpm.
See here;
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-version-2.pdf
My problem is not the seal, just improper air fuel ratio, at lower rpm.
Sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere to me. Or a torn gasket on the MAF to air box or TB to MAF.
Last edited by onehundred80; Sep 25, 2015 at 07:58 PM.
I thought vacuum also, but can't find any leak or bad connection.
Do not have the surge like it is getting to much air, just rough if I have a low rpm engine load at low speed.
Do not have the surge like it is getting to much air, just rough if I have a low rpm engine load at low speed.
Changed my throttle body and maf a week ago.
Around 450 miles and I still have rough idle, sluggish low rpm, and rough lower rpm under 1,500 rpm.
Shouldn't the computer have readjusted by now?
Waited to change oil till after I changed the throttle body and good thing I did when I got it changed Wednesday there was a faint gas smell in the oil.
When I installed the new oring, I coated oring lightly with Permatex blue when I installed. It will keep the oring in place till the throttle body is instaled, instead of the trial and error method.
Around 450 miles and I still have rough idle, sluggish low rpm, and rough lower rpm under 1,500 rpm.
Shouldn't the computer have readjusted by now?
Waited to change oil till after I changed the throttle body and good thing I did when I got it changed Wednesday there was a faint gas smell in the oil.
When I installed the new oring, I coated oring lightly with Permatex blue when I installed. It will keep the oring in place till the throttle body is instaled, instead of the trial and error method.
Wrong, use the old MAF sensor.
My old post I mention above even says that, Rekahs old post says that, how did you miss that?
My old post I mention above even says that, Rekahs old post says that, how did you miss that?
Last edited by onehundred80; Sep 26, 2015 at 08:55 AM.
And will have sensor read it is not getting as much air when it is actually getting more.
Speedy, if you think about it, when you install a NW CAI, you reuse the OEM sensor also.
We are talking a whole bunch more airflow !
We are talking a whole bunch more airflow !
Yep. Use the 68mm MAF.


