There have been NO reported problems regarding a 74mm TB and a NeedsWings 3" CAI, so I cannot see where the 74mm housing could cause any problems.
I myself have been running a 74 with NW CAI with EC tune for over 5 years now, no issues.

( 74 mm = 2.91339 Inches )

 

Kamilspider, you are thinking along the correct path, but what we do is change both the throttle body and the MAF housing to 74mm AND use the original MAF sensor. The ECU will figure it all out as it is programmed from the factory to work correctly. You will need security torx socket to remove and reinstall the MAF sensor. There has been no reported exhaust temperature problems to the best of my knowledge. As George said we also do the cold air intake along with the 74mm switch to help keep intake air temperature at ambient as the original air filters on top of the engine get too warm from engine heat.

 

The NeedWings cold air intake is not really required, I used the Mercedes engine cover and all was hunky dory. The tune was from EC and all was well.
See how to's attached. CLICK and CLICK

 

180 question: with your setup what is the temperature of the intake air? I have a single Needswings CAI, using an Ultragauge and at cruising speed my intake temperature is about 3 or 4 degrees F above ambient, but it does increase while at a signal light. Have you measured yours?

 

I used a small flat screwdriver and it worked, Beaner told me it would work and he was correct again. Just be careful you do not stab yourself while doing it though. The screws are not too tight.

 

I know that we only put old MAF sensor to new bigger 74mm MAF housing.
Normaly old MAF sensor is designed to 68mm diameter. Physically fit to bigger 74mm. But if we put it to 74mm diameter I think that he give not correct infos to ECU.
I not know how explain it. ECU not know that we change diameter. Old MAF sensor/ECU think that measure air flow in 68mm all the time.

 

I agree Steve, but ONLY if the ambient is below 50 F.
When it gets HOT ( 80 - 95 F ), I see up to 25 F higher IAT than ambient while cruising.
When I go up a hill, the IAT drops 2 or 3 degrees due to the increased airflow, but it also increases when I go down a hill.

 

I never measured my temp, I just did the mod because I felt like it. I was not into it to get lots of power, just the look.

For more power I got an SRT pure and simple, I doubt a few extra horses on the NA over what I did is hardly noticeable at normal driving. Some engines are just better than others anyway.

I never could see the benefits in a $400+ intake anyway, call me cheap. The SRT had a SCAI when I purchased it, it sure helps you hear the SC.

 

Agreed, but I did see a slight increase in MPG, which is always a good thing.

BTW, I also wrapped my CAI in an aftermarket jacket, don't bother because it makes little, if any difference in IAT's.

 

I know what you mean, the engine is getting more air that the maf sensor is saying it is getting.
I ran mine for quite awhile with the 74mm sensor installed, honestly I do not remember if I changed it to the 68mm sensor in the 74mm housing or left the 74mm sensor in the 74mm housing, I will check on that later.


Huh, I got less mpg

 

Remember, all the sensors work in conjunction to regulate the F/A mixture. When you focus on just one sensor, the discussion gets out of context. More air, then the ECU through its other sensors, increases fuel to match for increased power and economy.

.

 

It's all done with mirrors anyway. Just keep your mirrors clean.

 

Actually smoke and mirrors.

 

Today I change throttle body for 74mm.
I think that 68 and 74mm throttle bodys are very simillar, probably electronic is the same, only differences are bigger whole and bigger metal circle (sorry for my english).
After mod I feel nothing for +.
RPM limiter on neutral gear now is about 4 500. Before was 4 000-4 200 but I not remember exactly. How many RPMs you have?
This modification is very simple.

 

RPMs before shift ,should be 5800, on a automatic.

 

I have manual.
When I unplug abs/esp pump RPMs are about 6 000 and make nice sound wu-tu-tu-tu normaly this sound not exist.

 

The 1500 extra RPMs is great, its the no brakes or power steering ,that's a draw back.

 

No, only abs/esp, speedometer and spoiler not work. Breakes, RPMs and rest are OK

 

I see this thread has been left barren for some time, but I have multiple questions about this modification. Ive run the part numbers and done research and I know I have the right part and I'm convinced that my installation process was correct. Im 17 years old and have mechanical experience, but this baffles me. I installed the 74mm TB and performed the throttle reset procedure, (key on, hold pedal for five secs, wait 2 mins) and once I started the car, the RPMs just bounced up and down at idle. It did this multiple times after multiple throttle reset procedures. I disconnected the battery for 20 minutes to reset the computer and try again, but nothing changed. Im wondering if the upgraded MAF and/or MAF housing is needed in order to make this work. I checked all of the vacuum lines and everything was connected properly. Am I doing something wrong? Please, if anyone is still out there, I am in desperate need. Thanks!

Red 2004 N/A Xfire 6 speed 17,000 miles.

 

I got the 74mm TB and the bigger MAF. That might be what's needed. If you get the new MAF, you will need to use the old sensor so that you don't have any more problems.

Also, HOW THE HECK DO YOU HAVE A 2004 WITH 17000 MILES?