Heater blower resistor
Has anyone replaced the heater blower resistor in the UK and if you have can you tell me where you bought it from please.
The fan works fine but only blows out ambient air no hot air.
Regards
Elena
The fan works fine but only blows out ambient air no hot air.
Regards
Elena
The resistor is what varies the speed of the fan. What are the symptoms?
Thanks for replying so quickly, the fan operates as it should, it speeds up and slows down when I alter the fan speed but it doesn't blow hot air when I change the dials showing the blue dots to the red dots, cheers
Elena
Than
Last edited by onehundred80; Oct 8, 2013 at 11:29 AM.
Then I would say that it is the heater control the unit with the red and blue dotted dials or the heater valves under the hood near the battery. These are the two silver cylinders about 2" high side by side. Maybe Graphite Ghost will add his ideas as he has worked on this problem.
Regards
Elena
It looks like the passenger will be warm as that one works okay just the drivers seat doesn't work at all. I haven't sorted the heating problem out yet but GraphiteGhost is helping. I have just checked to see if there is power going to the heater valves as he requested and there isn't so I will let him know and see where we go from there.
I have just reproofed the roof and made my headlights a little nicer to look at using the Turtle Wax headlight lens restorer; it looked just as bad until I used the lens sealing wipe. Wish I had taken before and after photos.
Sorry I have rambled on a bit, hope all is well with you and your crossfire.
Kind regards
Elena
Elena, those heater control valves are a regular fault, you've probably already been told this trick but the first thing is to give them a tap as they often stick and a few taps with a spanner will often free them without actually removing or undoing anything.
Thanks I like the sound of cheap fixes, I will let you know if it's a success. But just to make sure I am hitting the right bit the valves are two silver cylinders close to each other and there isn't anything else that looks like them under the bonnet?
Kind regards
Elena
Last edited by ElenaB; Oct 16, 2013 at 12:38 AM.
Hi Ken and PCT
Thanks I like the sound of cheap fixes, I will let you know if it's a success. But just to make sure I am hitting the right bit the valves are two silver cylinders close to each other and there isn't anything else that looks like them under the bonnet?
Kind regards
Elena
Thanks I like the sound of cheap fixes, I will let you know if it's a success. But just to make sure I am hitting the right bit the valves are two silver cylinders close to each other and there isn't anything else that looks like them under the bonnet?
Kind regards
Elena
I doubt if they are stuck, what are the chances of the two sticking at the same time anyway, pretty slim.
How did you determine that there was no power?
True, but i'm not sure if there is a common component attached to the two chambers which sticks, my advice is based on my own experiences with my other car a Mercedes E320 with the same dual zone control valve and a knock on those cars often free's them.
Hi
I did tap the valves but still no heat. The valves started to get hot but no heat from the vents. I think I tapped them hard enough, is there anything else I can try?
Regards
Elena
I did tap the valves but still no heat. The valves started to get hot but no heat from the vents. I think I tapped them hard enough, is there anything else I can try?
Regards
Elena
Hopefully someone else will come along with some ideas.
Nothing else that springs to mind, it sounds like the control valves are receiving hot coolant if they feel warm, but the hot coolant isn't getting from there to the heater matrix for some reason so either they are stuck closed or there is a fault elsewhere.
Hopefully someone else will come along with some ideas.
Hopefully someone else will come along with some ideas.
The valves pulsate I hear and the the frequency of the pulsations control the flow of coolant and hence the heat. The two valves operate independently of one another and thus the so called zone heat controls, driver and passenger.
Frankly I would check to see if there is power to the solenoids as a first step.
Check fuse #15, in the under hood fuse panel.
Last edited by onehundred80; Oct 19, 2013 at 04:51 PM.
I think the valves control the coolant exit from the heater core not into it. Obviously if the flow is non existent then no heat will be felt.
The valves pulsate I hear and the the frequency of the pulsations control the flow of coolant and hence the heat. The two valves operate independently of one another and thus the so called zone heat controls, driver and passenger.
Frankly I would check to see if there is power to the solenoids as a first step.
Check fuse #15, in the under hood fuse panel.
The valves pulsate I hear and the the frequency of the pulsations control the flow of coolant and hence the heat. The two valves operate independently of one another and thus the so called zone heat controls, driver and passenger.
Frankly I would check to see if there is power to the solenoids as a first step.
Check fuse #15, in the under hood fuse panel.
Thanks for everyones advice, cheers
Okay I now have heat, the valves were working fine. I had a blockage or air lock in the single hose coming from the valves. My friendly mechanic (one of my brothers best mates, very handy) fixed it for me, yeah. Now just the drivers heated seat to sort
Thanks for everyones advice, cheers
Thanks for everyones advice, cheers
Assuming the light is coming on when you press the switch it is almost certainly the element in the seat itself, the wires break over time due to the repetitive flexing caused literally by repeated bums hitting the seat.
there is a repair kit available and if you search on here you'll find a 'how to' guide on doing the fix but its something I personally don't want to attempt on mine as it involves taking the seat apart and using knives and glue, and more importantly getting it all back together again looking right.
Here's the info if you fancy a go.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...structions.pdf
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...kit-repair.pdf
Last edited by pct; Nov 3, 2013 at 09:36 AM.
glad you got the heating sorted, failure of the heated seat (usually driver side) is another common problem, my drivers seat hasn't worked since I bought the car.
Assuming the light is coming on when you press the switch it is almost certainly the element in the seat itself, the wires break over time due to the repetitive flexing caused literally by repeated bums hitting the seat.
there is a repair kit available and if you search on here you'll find a 'how to' guide on doing the fix but its something I personally don't want to attempt on mine as it involves taking the seat apart and using knives and glue, and more importantly getting it all back together again looking right.
Here's the info if you fancy a go.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...structions.pdf
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...kit-repair.pdf
Assuming the light is coming on when you press the switch it is almost certainly the element in the seat itself, the wires break over time due to the repetitive flexing caused literally by repeated bums hitting the seat.
there is a repair kit available and if you search on here you'll find a 'how to' guide on doing the fix but its something I personally don't want to attempt on mine as it involves taking the seat apart and using knives and glue, and more importantly getting it all back together again looking right.
Here's the info if you fancy a go.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...structions.pdf
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...kit-repair.pdf
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