Ok, I make a living fixing electronic and some electro-mechanical assemblies. I do my own oil changes and many repairs on the lawn eqiupment at home, etc.

I remember a friend up north would do a brake job on his car himself several times a year - he was a rural letter carrier and went thru brakes kinda quickly.

So, is it reasonable to expect that I can change my brake pads myself? Should I even consider trying this or are there pitfalls I should be afraid of? And if so, just how different is this car from, say, my Ford Van or pickup - can the guys at the local shop handle the XF or should I look at going to a MB specialist?

 

andrew did a great write up on changing your own brake pads, I think it is called Brake replacement???, he used the Rotex brake pads in his write up, and also has the tools listed that you will need, Good Luck.

 

Here is the link i found to it www.crossfireforum.org/forum/470528-post17.html, hope this helps. I plan on doing mine soon, had the wheels off cleaning them the other day and looked the calipers over, seems pretty straight forward.

 

Thanks. Looks like I am quite capable - and hate to take the car to any shop for any reason. (Am I hopelessly **** or what?)

I have a 7mm allen wrench, and a 17mm socket - but what's a 7mm allen socket? I guess I'll take a wheel off tonight and look it over.


Not to make up my mind what pads to get....

 

Hey pizzaguy

Definitely use an anti-squeal lube on the pad backing even if the pads have a shim. Also caliper grease on the slides. Some pad sets have this grease in the box. If not, it's a good idea to get it.

Also, when you push the piston back into the caliper, remember that fluid is traveling "backwards" in the system---so go slowly. When I had my repair shop, some guys would do this too fast and blow-out a master cylinder. The ABS system takes most the back pressure now, but it's still a good idea to GO SLOWLY.

While you have everything apart, a can of brake clean to spray down all the parts before reinstall is also a good move---then apply the greases above.

One more---the brake fluid---important. If it is black and not a light yellow, you need to have it flushed and here is why---"Brake fluid attracts moisture, and this moisture can rust the insides of the brake system. This moisture was not that big of deal 10 years ago, but on ABS brake systems of today, the rust and other debris that accumulates in the fluid can do lots of internal damage, and can be very costly. Brake fluid can also break down over time from excess heat that is created from within the brake system."

When I had my repair shop, some thought I was full of it, but this is true. Also water can compress more than brake fluid, especially degraded brake fluid, so your stopping distance is increased. Not by much, but I would tell my customers that I was doing a brake job for THREE FEET. That is the distance from not hitting the bumper and not hitting the BACK SEAT of the car in front of you!!! In a panic stop, THREE FEET is a HUGE difference.

 

!BqPhv7QBGk~$(KGrHqYH-CQEu2UK2)nfBLu5pszLpg~~_35.jpgThis is what an Allen Head Socket is, most tool places (Sears and such) will have them.

 

TORX

 

 

Actually, I Highly recommend that you open the bleeder valve on the calipers, before you squeeze the pistons back into the caliper body, and drain that used brake fluid out of the system.

The reason why is because the moisture and debris that the fluid collects can and will cause damage to the ABS modulator if it reaches it, and trust me, it will.

You are so much better of setting your risk to 0 for getting contamination into the ABS unit.

BC.

 

At the pressures we are talking about water or oil does not compress. The amount of water that is absorbed by the brake fluid is quite minimal, 5 to 6% and is handled by the corrosion inhibitors in the oil. This water content would not be visible, visible water is a serious contamination and will be the result of water entering the reservoir, not good.
Brake oil with a high water content seemingly does compress a little but I doubt anyone would notice except in a laboratory.
However the oil should be changed, depending on driving style, time etc. When rotors are changed would be a good time to change the oil.
After all an ounce of protection is worth a pound of cure.

 

All brake fluid is HYGROscopic. Even the synthetic DOT % silicon formulas. For those not in the know, hygroscopic means it attracts water, moisture. If you're doing your brakes, a brake fluid flush would be good to do @ the same time while the wheels are off. Another thing to know is that brake fluid will eat up paint. So if it gets on a painted surface for like 3 to 5 seconds DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT take a towel and try to wipe it off. In that short amount of time you will wipe away the paint. Have a bottle of regular water handy and just pour it on the affected surface. The hygroscopic nature of the brake fluid will attract itself to the water giving you time to BLOT the area with a soft cloth. Hopefully saving your paint.

If you haven't done brakes before, lift the car up off the ground totally, the two jack pads near the front wheels and you can raise the rear easily enough by jacking up the differential. Do one side at a time, left and right not one axle at a time. That way you can use what's already there in place to check your work. I'll tell you this though, don't be intimidated by a brake job, we get paid 4 hours flat rate for a 4 wheel brake job and taking our time, we can get both axles done in about an hour 10 or an hour 20.

Brake jobs are considered "Gravy train on biscuit wheels"

 

i have done numerous crossfire and slk brake jobs. this is a 2 on a scale of 10 if you have a few handy items
1. PATIENTCE!!!!! the torx bolts are not visible and can be a pain . take your time
2. motive ind. power bleeder.(50$ from jegs) this handy tool will ensure all the air in the system is gone and allows you to see the fluid moving thru the system
3. 1/2 gal jug and clear line. this allows the fluid to stay off the floor and you will know when the clean fluid is passing thru
4. this is a great time to replace the oem rubber lines with braided lines. cheap to do and looks and works great
let me know if you have any questions during the install

 

And if you're gonna do the braided lines, be sue to soak the caliper in a tub of alcohol to get the brake dust off & out. Paint those calipers while you're at it...

 

thats what i did. be careful with the wear sensor bolt. strips easy!

 

The idea of dealing with the brake fluid is starting to make me timid about this... keep it coming, guys. I'm ordering the pads either today or monday... it'll be a few days, I'm sure, before they get here and I have to either be brave or pay someone to do it.

HATE to pay someone, no one is more careful with my car than I am... just wondering about my skill level, but I know I have a good bunch behind me here! (And it's never a waste of time to learn something.)

 

this is an easy diy. just take your time, do 1 caliper at a time (use the other for reference) just my .02 but the powerbleeder takes all the fear of air in the lines out of the equation. simple to do and rewarding knowing you did it and it was done right