how do you verify the nuetral state les? i was going to measure my setup in oem form before lowering . would that work?

 

No tension on the links with the car on the ground. I don't have ramps so I may have to disconnect the links at the top, lower and crawl under the car to look. Measuring should be close enough but I want to be positive of my "starting point."

Les

 

I measured the position of the sway bar mounting bolt at the top of the factory sway bar link to the floor and got 16" and then took out both sway bar links and measured from sway bar mount to the floor again and got 15". That would be with the sway bar just hanging with no loads on it. Yes, I had to crawl under the car to take the measurements. And the links are just inside the wheel line so my measurement was at an angle. But since I took both measurements the same it should be good.
The length of the factory sway bar link when measured from center to center of the mounting bolt holes is 7.8". When I installed my new links I set them to 6 7/8" to achieve the 'neutral' position of the sway bar. Once the new links are installed they will be super easy to adjust. Take off the wheel, loosen the jam nuts, adjust the link and tighten the jam nuts, replace the wheel.
By the way, one FULL turn/revolution of the link will make 0.105"(1/10") change.

I have also added the installation instructions to the FIRST post in this thread..

 

Very nice. I will be ordering a set of adjustable camber arms as well as a set of sway bar links when I am ready for the DIY lowering mod. Great write up and feedback, thanks to all!

Has anyone that has done the DIY lowering needed adjustable camber bolts/plates for the front? If so which ones were used, K-Mac's or the adjustable bolt?

Also the upper rubber grommet on the shock needs to be thinned if cutting the stock springs right?

 

You will probably need to get the adjusment bolts or the Kmac kit for the front after lowering... the bolts are 'adjustment' bolts, not 'adjustable' bolts. They are a fixed amount of a couple of tenths of a degree. If you can afford them, get the Kmac kit. It has poly bushings and eccentric bolts that give you plenty of adjustment. Getting the old bushing out is a PITA according to everyone that has done this. But the change is worth it.

And yes, you should cut the bumpers in the back for lowering so you dont bottom out on the stop. Trimming the front is optional. My Eibach spring kit said to trim the rear bumpers but not the front. Some members have trimmed both.

 

Ordered!

I will keep you guys posted on how they fair at the Dragon, my girlfriend kindly requested I do anything to lessen the harshness of the 7+ hour ride, so I obliged with more aftermarket goodies.

Think she will believe that the CF hood was purchased to make the ride more comfortable for her?

 

Mine CF hood makes mine ride better.....at least I smile more when I look at it...

Lighter too so better gas mileage to add to the benefits...

 

Mike, read your PM's?

 

Installing the ecentric bolts was my next project. Looks like I'll be taking it to the mechanic to get them done! So much for trying to save some money!!

 

Hey Mike, I have some questions regarding this set up and how it may or may not apply when using KW-V2 coilovers. I just had the KW-V2's put on by a professional suspension shop. Contrary to popular notions, the ride isn't stiff. The set up is keeping a slight rake on the SRT6, with a 1 finger wheel gap at the front and a 1.8 finger gap at the rear, which translates (using stock wheels/tires) to about 5/8" in front and 1 1/8" in the back. The shop said that after the settling time for the springs, it will drop another 3mm front and back. At which time I go back for an alignment. The V2 rebound settings are about 3 clicks softer than the recommended settings since I wanted a more "comfortable" ride, no harsher than stock. Since I have V3's on my other car, after the break-in period, I had to have them soften it a click or two. So, with the SRT6, after break-in, it should be just-right and need no adjustments for rebound. The ride is TOTALLY awesome right now, way easier on my ****/back than stock, and it take bumps with ease even lowered. Cornering is much improved over stock, and even has a bit less tram-lining in the front. But, as you mentioned above, I notice some serious camber going on due to the lowering. And, like you mentioned, the sway bar might be having a constant-load on it. I am wondering if the adjustable end links might help out even more with the rear end, and whether the stock camber arms will have enough adjustability to have a bit of negative camber, but not an exaggerated amount that will wear out my rather expensive tires quickly. The installer from Sonic Motor Sports in Mt. View, CA did a great job, didn't have to cut, drill or shave anything, and there is no "contact noise" of the sway bar and camber arm, even when I lay into a bump and corner hard. No banging on anything. The ride is great, honestly. But, if the sway bar end links would take off that preload, I am wondering if it would handle even better with those links. I can post some pictures of the non-aligned rear end situation if need be. Would like your opinion though. Will be taking it back for alignment in another 500 miles or so.

 

I have the K&W's on my car and my first impression with the links was WOW! Today I'm supposed to be at the race track but because of a wheel bearing fiasco, I'm spending the day prepping the car for tomorrow. It's a 2 day event, paid in full in advance.

My final measurement on the adjustable links for my car is 7 1/4". Let's see how it goes tomorrow at the track.

Les

 

Hey Les, I just measured my links (stock) and they came out at about 7 inches as well. Maybe you are lowered a bit more than me. Voice up how you like the K-W's and what set up you use for rear camber. I will take some pictures and post up what mine look like. Seems to fit OK as-is with the stocks at my current ride height. Rear tires are wearing on the inside though.

 

Well, here's the pics.... Comments anyone?

Camber



Wheel gap ( 1 5/8 inches... flash washed out dark/light)

SAM_0781.jpg

sway link length - numbers washed out by flash.. about 7" center to center

SAM_0782.jpg

better picture showing numbers on paper ruler used to get inside the wheel area.

SAM_0783.jpg

 

How is the install on these? I got the kit and it looks great. Glancing at the instructions it looks like a bit of a PITA to install but I have not climbed under the car or spent any real time with the directions.

 

I had a pro-shop do it. Sonic Motorsports in Mt. View, CA. They do all ends of the spectrum from Lamborghinis, BMWs, MBZ, and they do a stupendous job on suspensions. They even custom make their own stuff for perfect fitment. I don't go anywhere else. They have these V2's dialed in so well, I love taking bumps and corners.... and even bumps while IN corners. SRT-6 doesn't jounce, ride comfort is much better than stock, and it's lowered about 1.25 inches. (.9 to 2.0 drop) is what the KW-V2s will go. Highly recommended. If you put a lot of miles on your ride, and those miles are over uneven roads, it's worth the cost. I just need to keep my rear tires from wearing too prematurely. The difference currently on the outside of the tire to the inside is about 3 or 4/32nds, so it IS noticeable.

 

Jeremy, the sway bar link install is VERY easy. Plenty of room once you jack it up and take the wheels off. It only takes about 15 mins per side.

Cudaman, the factory camber struts/arms are NOT adjustable. To fix your negative camber you need to get a set of adjustable camber arms or the Kmac kit for the rear.
I measured the factory sway bar links off the car and from center to center of the top and bottom mounting holes they are ~7.8". I adjusted my links to 6 7/8" and installed. I chose this number as I measured the top mounting hole to the ground with the factory links at 16" and with no links installed the sway bar was at 15". I will be interested in seeing how Les does with his set at 7 1/4". Once installed you can adjust them to a different length very easily.

 

Mike, I just got back from my track day and had a personal best by more than 2/10ths of a second. (108.2) When I first went out the car scared me a little because it rolled a bit more than usual and felt different. After adjusting tire pressures I got more comfortable and starting pushing to see what would happen. I like these links but need to experiment with the bar tighter and looser. My first thought is to tighten them because that's what I'm used to. My car was optimized for a tight bar and I left the alignment as it was.
I'm pleased. It means more work to figure out what combination of bar tension and alignment works best but more speed is obviously to be had. I began the day with 3/4 tank of gas, full size battery and no octane booster. My previous best time was with the reserve light on, octane booster in the tank and a 14 lb. battery.
I believe I would have seen a 107.xx if I could have done more consecutive laps. Unfortunately, my car is running hot at the track and I'm just getting into a groove when I have to back off or overheat. Mike, these links are a winner. Now I have some homework to do to get the most out of them. And as stated previously, your car will positively ride much better if your car is lowered by returning the bar to a neutral position with these links.

Les

 

Great feedback Les, thanks for the update. I will be investing in a set along with a pair of adjustable camber arms. It's great to hear some real world experience using the car and your mods to their full potential.

Do you think tightening up the compression rate on your variants will decrease the body roll you feel now with the sway bar link length corrected?

MikeR, thanks for the new options again

 

Les, glad to hear that the links worked so well at the track. Congratulations on the new PB..

 

I set my shocks to full hard on the track. The shocks don't affect body roll. They change the rate of weight transfer and roll. Roll is controlled by the springs first and roll bar second. I like my car to stop shifting weight as fast as possible. It makes it easier for me to predict how far I can push. These links are a tuning tool for me and it won't take too many track days to figure out how to go even faster with them. I had the rear break away getting on the gas several times but it was predictable, gradual and correctable without major inputs. I hope to find some pictures from Sunday of my car in a corner.

The additional roll I felt wasn't much. Taking some stress off the bar resulted in the bar reaching full effectiveness at a higher roll angle. Now I'm going to tighten it back up a hair to see if I can keep the kinder, gentler ride but have the bar working sooner. To sum up, I went from the bar being too tight to too loose for track usage. I didn't take my tools to the track to resist temptation to change the links adjustment before a full test. I'll adjust before the next track day.

Let me point out that on the street all my track observations won't count for much. I never come close to the cornering or braking forces that I reach at the track. I believe these links are going to get good feedback from everyone.

Les