I'm sure most of you know that anytime you replace, repair or disassemble a suspension component, in most cases, a wheel alignment is in order. In my case, since I dropped, recambered and converted to a full rear heim suspension links and still am experimenting with different alignment settings, I would have needed 1/2 dozen wheel alighments!

So I devised a cheap, yet accurate way of performing a wheel alignment using a state of the art technology: The Lazer!

It takes one man, about an hour to do the toe, camber and parallel adjustment, assuming you already have the components to do these adjustments on your Crossie

 

I gotta say - I'm impressed. I mean, all you need is an accurate way to determine how the rim is sitting.
Oh, if I could play around with my own settings... then run 2 1/2 hours up to the Dragon and play around... this would be COOL!!!
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Wait a minute - you are in CANADA? You SURE you haven't been watching too much of this guy?

 

I am impressed, however, never having done anything with wheel alignment, ( like pizza ) I don't comprehend the technology.
Could you please provide a step-by-step of how to actually implement this fantastic tool ?

 

I have been showing how to measure the camber with a simple level on a flat surface. You just need to measure the tilt of the wheel from vertical and measure the difference. Using a Sine table you can see the exact angle of the camber ( + or - ). See my postings

Toe in / out measurments are as simple as using a stick with a nail in it to measure the width of the tires TRACK at the front of the wheels and then measure the width of the rear TRACK. The nail allow you to hook the 6' long stick into the tread on the other tire while you read the width of the track. I use a piece of pvc and a taped on tape measure.

Example: 41.5" in front TRACK, rear of tires 41.75", would give you a toe IN of 0.25 inches. You should measure the toe as high up the tire as is possible, ideal would be 1/2 the height of the tire. But the body work limits the height so you need to get a feel of the toe, its not exact but good enough for everyday suspension component alignment, liike checking after you pop the rear out.

Enjoy Woody

FYI:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...archid=1656397

 

tools needed:

Lazer projector($20 at Canadian tire)
Straight edge mount(4" aluminium channel 20" long)
7' long ruler(I used a 1 1/2 s/s angle

Make a base line on one end of the ruler and cut a piece of angle with a slot which will serve as the marker at the measuring end of the ruler. the ruler should be 12" up from the ground using a foot stool or the like.

The following is for a rear tow adjustment:

Set the ruler directly in front of the front licence plate, up 12" off the ground. At this point you can measure the distance between the rear wheel center and the ruler(aprox. 11'). Now take a second measurement from the rear wheel center, towards the back of the car. This is where you will position the ruler for the rear measurement comparaison. Starting with the LR wheel, aim the lazer forward and level, and align with the base line on the ruler(It saves time if you have a buddy moving the ruler for you). Once that is done move to the RR wheel and aim the lazer forward and level. Clamp on the marker where the beam is projecting(see pics on first post). It's now time to move the ruler to the back of the car, at the 11' mark previously determined! Still at the RR wheel, turn the lazer around, projecting to the base line on the ruler. Move back to the LR wheel and aim the Lazer rearward to find how accurate your tow is.

Parallel adjustment is a rear wheel tow adjustment. Have you ever seen a car going down the road sideways(crab steer)? Now that you know your rear tow is correct, it's time to determine if the rear wheels are going straight down the road. Starting at the LR wheel, aim the lazer forward and level. Using a measuring tape horizontally to the center cap of the front wheel, note where the lazer lines up on your tape. Perform the same measurement on the other side. Both measurements must be the same. A heim joint toe link set up makes this task a breeze!

The pic below shows the vertical beam projected on the garage door in the background. This is a real easy way of figuring out your camber angle.

It helps if you have a strength in geometry or have a carpenter background

Oh, BTW, as far as accuracy of measurement, it's not just good enough, it's bang on everytime!