Is there a countersunk screw that has to be removed before pulling the top hat off? A drop of rust remover on the hub/drum joint left for an hour and gentle taps around the drop often loosens the rusty bond.

 

Onehundred80, I removed the screw that was attached to the rotor using a T-10 Torx bit after removing the caliper and 16mm bolts, sprayed and let sit, hammered to my hearts content but no-go. Still stuck, so saw some folks that used the 3 Jaw Puller on MB YouTube Video with moderate success. The reason that I asked is if anyone had used it or is it recommended.

Ala_xfire, thanks for the diagram will try that this weekend.

 

I had to ask about the screw as you never know.
I have heard of one drastic way to loosen the drum, I do not recommend it by but .....
Loosen the studs to just finger tight and have a drive around the block, the corners exert pressure on the drum.

 

That's original, might even work !

 

Scary to even think about it. Last I remember in my youth worked on a friend's car thought I had tighten the studs long story short he was driving and the wheel came loose in front of all things a funeral shop.

 

Well, an update for the last two weeks it has been raining (FL) so had not had a chance yet to get back to the from driver's or rear rotors to get them off. Had sprayed the front with decent amount of rust penetrate but did not come off. Got a 4lb and 10lb engineering hammer and will try again once the weather cooperates

 

Engineers do not use hammers, they use their brains and calculators.
When that fails they then use hammers in heavier and heavier weights to get the job done.

 

Is that why my engineering friend tossed out his calculus book out the window in college because he was too stressed to think

 

There was a really nice note about removing the rotors somewhere on the forums...
I tried it and it was really easy and mine were on solid for 14 years and the center was really rusted and they would not come off even with banging....here is the easy way..

doesn't work for the back but them come off hitting them with a mallet and using a piece of wood.

Front removals
remove the caliper mounting bracket
Get two long bolts slightly smaller than the bracket hole diameter - about 3 inches long.
Get two nuts and a large flat washer for each bolt. Place bolt through caliper mounting bracket from center of car. Place washer and screw first nut on....it will be the brace on the outside edge of the caliper bracket. Screw second nut on bolt - it will put pressure on the rotor itself.

Thread the bolt all the way thru the first nut until it touches the rotor. Head of bolt should just touch the rotor and first nut and washer should hold it tight in place against the rotor. now turn the second nut out towards the rotor. Do both nuts on both bolts evenly. Spray oil on center rotor hub. Turn nuts slowly and give it time....the rotor will pop right off suddenly. Works every time. Mine took a lot of force on the nut to pop them but they did pop off! MUCH better than using a mallet or hammer or the parts.

Easier than you think...you'll get the idea once you start doing this....does not mark or hurt the rotor either.

 

Do you know what size/type bolts you used gp1200x? I do appreciate the reponse.

 

Maybe this is a dumb question on the rear rotors but would having the car in park while on jack stands keep the rotor on the rear from coming loose or could it be the e-brake that needs adjusting downward to release the rear when I put it in neutral?

 

The brake shoes on the rear would expand out against the rear rotor and prevent it from coming off if you had the ebrake applied. The ebrake should not be applied when removing the rear disks.
With a lot of wear on the rear brake ebrake shoes there could be a lip worn on the rotor which would prevent the rotor coming off, the car would have had to have been driven with the ebrake slightly on many times for this to be the case so I doubt it. The rotor would be wobbly in this case. Rust could also form a lip. The ebrake shoes are like the old brakes prior to disk brakes on the Crossfire and the shoes can be adjusted down to clear the lip.
The ebrake shoes on the Crossfire are self adjusting for wear in a similar fashion to the early drum and shoe brakes of old.
Some cars move the pads on the rotors to provide the ebraking.
Rust on the hubs can lock the rotors on to the hubs, careful tapping can loosen them, a little rust remover can help.

 

onehundred80, thanks for the response no not driven with ebrake on at all, so yes may just be rusted on. Have not tried the engineering hammers yet as it has rained alot in south florida. Xfire has about 71,000 miles.