A potential nightmare averted… thank you Crossfire Forum! Crankshaft Position Sensor
Thanks for posting. Is the Bosch part the one with the 1 lock tab or the 2 lock tabs. thanks
Last edited by autumnmass; Jan 5, 2013 at 11:13 AM.
autumnmass, This is what I put in the search box in Amazon.
Bosch 0261210170 Crank Position Sensor
Bosch 0261210170 Crank Position Sensor
My 04 na xfire was dying on regular basis for 3-4 days when I finally parked it. Did research on this forum and took the plunge changing out the crankshaft position sensor today after verifying the the k12 relay was good.
Went to 7 auto parts stores here in denver, they all had the part but by different names then I had read about in this thread. Ended up at Advanced Auto Parts where they had a BDW cps, they brought out the box and it said SMP Intermotor genuine import parts. Did some quick research at the counter and found out the SMP is the parent company of BDW. Bought the part for $52 out the door.
Installation took about 1.5 hours as I never really worked on the car before, took my sweet time. I went out and bought a 12 pt 1/4 socket for this job, when that didnt work I just tried (like a couple people in this thread) a regular 6pt 1/4 socket which worked flawlessly. My regular 6 pt socket fit much better then my 12pt or 9pt.
ONLY PROBLEM was when I was removing the clip from the sensor I broke the clip so it doesnt snap in. I took it for a 10 minute ride with no issues but still am a little weary of the connector staying on.
Also is there supposed to be an inlet for the ram air (correct name?) pieces that come from under the motor cover on both sides coming from the grille? Mine only had one on the right side looking at the vehicle?
Thanks guys....And EXCELLENT job with the DIY instructions
Went to 7 auto parts stores here in denver, they all had the part but by different names then I had read about in this thread. Ended up at Advanced Auto Parts where they had a BDW cps, they brought out the box and it said SMP Intermotor genuine import parts. Did some quick research at the counter and found out the SMP is the parent company of BDW. Bought the part for $52 out the door.
Installation took about 1.5 hours as I never really worked on the car before, took my sweet time. I went out and bought a 12 pt 1/4 socket for this job, when that didnt work I just tried (like a couple people in this thread) a regular 6pt 1/4 socket which worked flawlessly. My regular 6 pt socket fit much better then my 12pt or 9pt.
ONLY PROBLEM was when I was removing the clip from the sensor I broke the clip so it doesnt snap in. I took it for a 10 minute ride with no issues but still am a little weary of the connector staying on.
Also is there supposed to be an inlet for the ram air (correct name?) pieces that come from under the motor cover on both sides coming from the grille? Mine only had one on the right side looking at the vehicle?
Thanks guys....And EXCELLENT job with the DIY instructions
There should be one on each side for the stock airbox. If you're missing one you'll be gulping in some hot under-hood air which isn't great. Won't cause damage but cold air is much better.
Well it happened. After 114008 mile on my XF, my car stalled three times in heavy traffic today. After the engine cooled down I could start the engine right up and be on my way until traffic slowed down again and again then I called for a tow. Anyhow, the symptoms mrobinso mentioned are exactly what I experienced. When my XF and I rolled up to my house (on the back of a flat bed) I plug my ODB tool in and discovered the P0335 code. I will order the part tomorrow and I must say I am feeling confident my stalling problem will be solved after reading this thread. You know...its funny now, because I thought this was going to be a HUGE Nightmare to repair but I am actually smiling and giggling because it's going to be OK.
I'll sleep good night mrobinso and XF forum!
Problem solved:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post732123
Problem solved:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post732123
Last edited by Rico69; Mar 30, 2013 at 01:24 AM.
I installed my CPS a couple months ago and my stalling problem is in the past!!!
This forum is a GOLDMINE of info
THANK YOU!
Jeff
This forum is a GOLDMINE of info
THANK YOU!
Jeff
This forum is great! I have referred to it a few times concerning my 04 Crossfire which has 74k + miles - most recently my car stalled out in the middle of Houston rush our traffic, without any warning, twice! NOT FUN! Both times I was in stop-and-go traffic when I would come to a stop and notice my car became completely silent and all the lights on the dash were lit up. Luckily, I would take the key out of the ignition, turn the AC and radio off, put the key back in and it would turn right back on and seem to run fine. I did notice it seemed to be idling very low... Anyway. I came to this forum for answers and after reading several comments decided it was time to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor, which cost me less than $60 and my mechanic had it installed in about 20 min. Haven't had any issue since I had it replaced 2 days ago. Yay!
Now for very annoying issue - How the hell can I deactivate the stupid seatbelt warning sound??? Is there some fuse I can unplug?
I love my car, the only issue that has ever made me second guess my decision to purchase is the seatbelt warning sound, it drives me crazy!
Now for very annoying issue - How the hell can I deactivate the stupid seatbelt warning sound??? Is there some fuse I can unplug?
I love my car, the only issue that has ever made me second guess my decision to purchase is the seatbelt warning sound, it drives me crazy!
This forum is great! I have referred to it a few times concerning my 04 Crossfire which has 74k + miles - most recently my car stalled out in the middle of Houston rush our traffic, without any warning, twice! NOT FUN! Both times I was in stop-and-go traffic when I would come to a stop and notice my car became completely silent and all the lights on the dash were lit up. Luckily, I would take the key out of the ignition, turn the AC and radio off, put the key back in and it would turn right back on and seem to run fine. I did notice it seemed to be idling very low... Anyway. I came to this forum for answers and after reading several comments decided it was time to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor, which cost me less than $60 and my mechanic had it installed in about 20 min. Haven't had any issue since I had it replaced 2 days ago. Yay!
Now for very annoying issue - How the hell can I deactivate the stupid seatbelt warning sound??? Is there some fuse I can unplug?
I love my car, the only issue that has ever made me second guess my decision to purchase is the seatbelt warning sound, it drives me crazy!
Now for very annoying issue - How the hell can I deactivate the stupid seatbelt warning sound??? Is there some fuse I can unplug?
I love my car, the only issue that has ever made me second guess my decision to purchase is the seatbelt warning sound, it drives me crazy!
Read this thread and you will be in business
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...any-wires.html
Another way to make it stop is to buckle up ... hehe
RL
Last edited by RL67037; Sep 12, 2013 at 12:49 PM.
Dollface,
Changing the Crank Sensor was a good move, with 74k miles
it was time for it to be replaced. But your symptoms sound
more like a RCM ( Relay Control Module) problem. Or
have you already replaced it? Car turns off.. either at a stop
or while moving, lights on dash stay on.. will start right back up when you turn it on again. In my opinion that sounds more like a RCM starting to die on
you .. If you already replaced it then the crank sensor should probably fix your problem .. if it continues to do it .. then the RCM will be to blame! There is a post here on the forum about that problem give it a search .. From experience I can say that a bad Crank Sensor will not allow the engine to start right back up again it will just turn over a few times and eventually might turn back on and in most cases it will also turn your check engine light on
I think your RCM is about to go out .. If you're here in Houston I can send you a # of the Mercedes Dealer Parts representative in Austin where I got mine at least 80$ cheaper than any Mercedes dealer here in Houston. If I recall the Local Mercedes dealers were asking about 210$ for the part and I called Austin and got it for 140$ .. The part is really simple to replace, probably as simple as replacing a light bulb in your home.
PS. The seat belt question was already answered by RL67037 .. follow the link he posted to deactivate the chime, but remember that if you ever pull fuse 35 from the fuse box in the engine .. It will reset the chime deactivation and you will have to do it again, no biggie just an FYI
Take care!
Changing the Crank Sensor was a good move, with 74k miles
it was time for it to be replaced. But your symptoms sound
more like a RCM ( Relay Control Module) problem. Or
have you already replaced it? Car turns off.. either at a stop
or while moving, lights on dash stay on.. will start right back up when you turn it on again. In my opinion that sounds more like a RCM starting to die on
you .. If you already replaced it then the crank sensor should probably fix your problem .. if it continues to do it .. then the RCM will be to blame! There is a post here on the forum about that problem give it a search .. From experience I can say that a bad Crank Sensor will not allow the engine to start right back up again it will just turn over a few times and eventually might turn back on and in most cases it will also turn your check engine light on
I think your RCM is about to go out .. If you're here in Houston I can send you a # of the Mercedes Dealer Parts representative in Austin where I got mine at least 80$ cheaper than any Mercedes dealer here in Houston. If I recall the Local Mercedes dealers were asking about 210$ for the part and I called Austin and got it for 140$ .. The part is really simple to replace, probably as simple as replacing a light bulb in your home.
PS. The seat belt question was already answered by RL67037 .. follow the link he posted to deactivate the chime, but remember that if you ever pull fuse 35 from the fuse box in the engine .. It will reset the chime deactivation and you will have to do it again, no biggie just an FYI
Take care!
Thanks for the replies. I will def be trying the seatbelt 'thing' tonight!
~ Benzfire, I'll take your advice and go ahead and replace the RCM. If it doesn't need it just yet I'm sure it will in the near future. I work for an exotic and classic car dealership here in Houston so I already get the parts for cost, and if I say 'please' my mechanics in the back do the labor for free
Doesn't get any cheaper than that!
While I'm here posting again... Any easy fix for the cup holder that is stuck open/up?
~ Benzfire, I'll take your advice and go ahead and replace the RCM. If it doesn't need it just yet I'm sure it will in the near future. I work for an exotic and classic car dealership here in Houston so I already get the parts for cost, and if I say 'please' my mechanics in the back do the labor for free
While I'm here posting again... Any easy fix for the cup holder that is stuck open/up?
Thanks for the replies. I will def be trying the seatbelt 'thing' tonight!
~ Benzfire, I'll take your advice and go ahead and replace the RCM. If it doesn't need it just yet I'm sure it will in the near future. I work for an exotic and classic car dealership here in Houston so I already get the parts for cost, and if I say 'please' my mechanics in the back do the labor for free
Doesn't get any cheaper than that!
While I'm here posting again... Any easy fix for the cup holder that is stuck open/up?
~ Benzfire, I'll take your advice and go ahead and replace the RCM. If it doesn't need it just yet I'm sure it will in the near future. I work for an exotic and classic car dealership here in Houston so I already get the parts for cost, and if I say 'please' my mechanics in the back do the labor for free
While I'm here posting again... Any easy fix for the cup holder that is stuck open/up?
Well then you're set! As far as parts go ... On the other hand to charge someone for replacing the RCM on the xfire would be criminal .. lol .. it's far too easy.. Exotic car dealership? I can only think of 3 here in town .. Cup holder staying up? When I removed my whole interior panels for paiting to white on black.. I recall the cup holder has a spring mechanism that holds it down when you close it .. It might be busted, get your mechanic buddies to take off the middle console and inspect it.. don't forget to say please!
I've ripped this car apart from top to bottom and the cup holder is probably the must useless thing on this car .. Did you get a spare tire for it yet? I didn't see myself getting towed for 200$ for every flat tire .. Went on ebay, got original 19" rim for 140$ then put a used mid life 40 dollar tire on it .. yeah I might be left with limited space in the trunk area but beats paying or waiting on a tow truck for a simple tire issue.
Let us know if your problem engine wise was solved!
Let us know if your problem engine wise was solved!
As RL67037 says ..
You can also repair it .. I thought about repairing mine
when it went out .. But that's just like putting duck tape
on a busted garden hose .. yeah .. it'll solve your problem
and stop your leak.. but it's always in the back of your mind
that you "fixed it" .. I like to take good care of my cars full on .. when it comes down to critical 100% essential parts that make
the engine run like it should like in this case the RCM.. I don't even mess with trying to repair them... I'll buy the part new .. if it's something simple non essential I will repair it .. It comes down to everyone's personal choice and situation.
PS: I did however repair my old RCM AFTER I installed the NEW one .. Just because I was bored on a rainy day .. The old repaired one is collecting dust somewhere in the attic.. that was 3 years ago .. Haven't had a problem with the new one since..
You can also repair it .. I thought about repairing mine
when it went out .. But that's just like putting duck tape
on a busted garden hose .. yeah .. it'll solve your problem
and stop your leak.. but it's always in the back of your mind
that you "fixed it" .. I like to take good care of my cars full on .. when it comes down to critical 100% essential parts that make
the engine run like it should like in this case the RCM.. I don't even mess with trying to repair them... I'll buy the part new .. if it's something simple non essential I will repair it .. It comes down to everyone's personal choice and situation.
PS: I did however repair my old RCM AFTER I installed the NEW one .. Just because I was bored on a rainy day .. The old repaired one is collecting dust somewhere in the attic.. that was 3 years ago .. Haven't had a problem with the new one since..
Last edited by BenzFire; Sep 12, 2013 at 04:23 PM.
A factory new RCM for our cars ( if there is such a thing anymore ) will be just like the one that came in your car when it was new.
Over the years and heat/cool cycles under the hood, along with mechanical stress, the wave soldered factory boards
will most likely develop the cold/cracked solder joints.
I am of the mind that a 'repaired' one , done properly, is probably MORE reliable than a factory issue one, since it has extra solder on the critical joints.
And then, I could always be wrong.
Over the years and heat/cool cycles under the hood, along with mechanical stress, the wave soldered factory boards
will most likely develop the cold/cracked solder joints.
I am of the mind that a 'repaired' one , done properly, is probably MORE reliable than a factory issue one, since it has extra solder on the critical joints.
And then, I could always be wrong.
Actually Ala_xfire about 6 + years ago Mercedes got news
of how faulty their RCM was turning out after a few years
in service particularly the one being used on the SLK320 which is the same one used for the xfire as of that point those RCM's were revised and upgraded and the solder was improved although any part can fail even a "NEW" one .. I'm sure it'll take a good 7 + years by that point most of us wont even own the xfire anymore or at least have another 100 bucks to throw at a new RCM. Just my 2 cents.
of how faulty their RCM was turning out after a few years
in service particularly the one being used on the SLK320 which is the same one used for the xfire as of that point those RCM's were revised and upgraded and the solder was improved although any part can fail even a "NEW" one .. I'm sure it'll take a good 7 + years by that point most of us wont even own the xfire anymore or at least have another 100 bucks to throw at a new RCM. Just my 2 cents.
A factory new RCM for our cars ( if there is such a thing anymore ) will be just like the one that came in your car when it was new.
Over the years and heat/cool cycles under the hood, along with mechanical stress, the wave soldered factory boards
will most likely develop the cold/cracked solder joints.
I am of the mind that a 'repaired' one , done properly, is probably MORE reliable than a factory issue one, since it has extra solder on the critical joints.
And then, I could always be wrong.
Over the years and heat/cool cycles under the hood, along with mechanical stress, the wave soldered factory boards
will most likely develop the cold/cracked solder joints.
I am of the mind that a 'repaired' one , done properly, is probably MORE reliable than a factory issue one, since it has extra solder on the critical joints.
And then, I could always be wrong.
Did you get a spare tire for it yet? I didn't see myself getting towed for 200$ for every flat tire .. Went on ebay, got original 19" rim for 140$ then put a used mid life 40 dollar tire on it .. yeah I might be left with limited space in the trunk area but beats paying or waiting on a tow truck for a simple tire issue.
Let us know how that 19" wheel works out for ya when you blow out a front tire.
Ashonfire ..
Worked perfectly fine for a spare .. matter of fact I worked at a tire shop when I was in High School .. I know my wheels and tires .. But .. the 19" spare is long gone .. I upgraded to 20" wheels all the way around including the spare ..
And if your point was that how can you put a 19" wheel
along side a 18" wheel ... I suggest you read about tire sizing and psi! wouldn't hurt ya!
You're not also wondering how when some people get a blow out you see them driving their cars with a little 15" donut spare when their car is sitting on 17" or 16" are you? lol
Worked perfectly fine for a spare .. matter of fact I worked at a tire shop when I was in High School .. I know my wheels and tires .. But .. the 19" spare is long gone .. I upgraded to 20" wheels all the way around including the spare ..
And if your point was that how can you put a 19" wheel
along side a 18" wheel ... I suggest you read about tire sizing and psi! wouldn't hurt ya!
You're not also wondering how when some people get a blow out you see them driving their cars with a little 15" donut spare when their car is sitting on 17" or 16" are you? lol
Last edited by BenzFire; Sep 12, 2013 at 11:05 PM.
if you are having trouble finding your crank shaft position sensor or how to install it. my video will show you how to do so...


