This is all over the forums, but I can't figure it out.

Background may or may not be useful:
Earlier in the day I was really low on gas idling in the parking lot, and it began to stutter. So i got across the street and put 2 gallons of gas in it. I hate that gas station and was going to drive 2 miles to my favored gas station.

The car was missing hella bad, sounded like a motorcycle and had barely any acceleration. Got to the pump and stalled out but started up again. I put $20 more in it and it ran and drove fine. Got home.

Then I went to Walmart a couple hours later with my brother, and it ran and drove us to Walmart fine. When we got back to the car it wouldn't start, first try the starter made a single click. But I didn't think it was a dead battery, it just worked.... everything lights up fine. tried to turn the key again and i held it longer and I could hear the alarm siren very quietly going off. (I replaced that less than 3 months ago. And when I lock/unlock doors it makes the chirp noise). I asked my brother to push start us, and that worked... so... I got home and took the RCM out and resoldered the 3 pins that are common to fail, but they looked decent. That did not fix my problem. I checked all of my fuses.

Problem: Car does not crank and does not start
I don't think it is the RCM because I re-soldered and also the fan does not come on.
I don't think it is the clutch safety switch, because i can hear the fuel pump as long as I turn the key to start position. (I do not hear the fuel pump without pressing the clutch)

So I am guessing either the SKREEM module, battery, or starter.

Tried:
- Re-soldering RCM
- Checked fuses
- disconnecting battery for 10 minutes
- Tried touching battery cables together with battery disconnected
- Currently taking my battery to Autozone to be tested

I appreciate the help!

 

With the SKREEM , it will try to start 3 times before the engine will not turn over. While at the battery, make sure the cables are clean. Then check the ground cable for corrosion at its grounding point at the fender, also the cable itself. Look at the covering jacket ,make sure corrosion has not made its way up into the cable.

 

Your symptoms, seem to be fuel filter, bad gas, fuel pump. I know you hear it but is the pressure correct. Just my way of thinking .

 

Fuel pump relay is in the RCM

 

I still think it could be the RCM. Could you have damaged the pump with such low fuel level? RCM and pump would be my focus. Can you post a picture of the solder connections and the fuel pump relay contacts?

 

The engine is not cranking at all. I don't think a bad fuel pump will prevent the starter from turning. I could be wrong.

 

I don't think a bad fuel pump will prevent the car from cranking. I had autozone test my battery he said it was good but the cold cranking amps was only like 560 out of 720 or something like that. I'm going to take the starter out and take it to autozone and have them test it. Unless anybody has anything easier to try first. My dad and I jumped the solenoid on the starter, bypassing relays, security, etc.... it didn't even click.

 

Starter problems are rare with this engine. But I don't see how it could NOT be the starter, given your statement above.

 

Taking the starter out now is way too soon in this DX process, and a ton of work. RCM still can be the no crank issue and the most common. Starter not so common. There may be other solder joints bad inside the RCM than just the common 3. I touch up the whole board while it's out. The fuel pump relay can be the rough running part of your symptoms that's why I put those two things together with the RCM and relay contacts.

 

dylan07,
I had tha same problem last summer. I had the Rcm repaired re-installed every thing was fine—— for awhile! Then problems just as you described.
Pizzaguy had the answer. He suggested I replace the crank sensor. Replaced it and all is well!
Ordered part from German Auto Supply
10308Bailey Rd.- Unit 409
Cornelius, NC 28031
(704) 425-2890
Bosh Crank Position Sensor - MB # 003 153 27 28

Firemanken

 

You had a no crank no start problem and replacing the crankshaft sensor fixed it?

Reasons why I think it's the starter is because first, it started by push starting, and the starter didn't do anything when jumping the solenoid to the starter. It should have worked. But because it didn't, I think it rules out the RCM (I could be wrong). I got it out almost. Had to remove the exhaust, I removed it from the manifold. No I need to remove it from the flange by the resonator. Then it's just one more bolt and the wires.


​​​​​​A lot of work if it isn't the problem....

 

 

Hmm, it wont start at all.... even if i wait a day it still doesn't crank...

 

Could you show us a picture of the RCM, closeup of solder joints and relay contacts? I hear your symptoms and think there is some overlap of two or three issues going on.

 

Check for codes. Crank sensor may set a code.

The 3 usual bad pins on the RCM will cause a no crank. If you redid them then that may not be your problem.

A (going) bad fuel relay will make the car run poorly but will not prevent the car from attempting to start.

Bad engine control relay will cause a no start. You said fan didn't spin up so probably not it either. Make sure you turn the key to the ON position and wait about 30 seconds to be sure.

My guess so far, CPS. Check for codes.

 

Alright guys! It ended up being a bad starter! I replaced it (had to remove the exhaust, it was fun) and it works now!!!

 

Amazing the extent of how far company's will go to discourage the DIYer. Glad your up an running..