Seeking help, my 2005 C.F. Convertible was working great until I replaced the top. Now if top is down it will come up just fine. I will latch it shut no beeping. When I try to put it down I undo the latch and both Windows go down and the beeping starts and top will not go and further. I tried to resync top by putting up and down manually 3 times with Car running. I had to pull the #25 fuse to do this. If not I couldn't lift the bow. Any help is appreciated. Thanks Tobin

 

I would check the switch/sensor on the left side panel in the trunk, that needs to be fully engaged, for the top to go down.

 

I second that.
In addition, check the same left bracket (in trunk where divider engages) for cracks. A cracked bracket can prevent the divider from engaging the switch.

 

It is a fundamental clue: your top goes UP but not DOWN? There are TWO sensors that are checked before the top is put down, that are NOT checked when putting the top up.
If your top goes UP but not DOWN, the issue is one of those sensors.

One is the "Divider Sensor" the guys above mentioned.
The other is the "top open" sensor above the passenger's head, on the frame where it articulates.

I talk about this here:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...p-sensors.html
Mostly in post 5, but posts 3 and 4 lead up to it.

 

Wow a lot of well informed members here. I have the day off so I will try your suggestions. Will get back soon with a progress report. Thank for your help.

 

Well it turns out it was the cam switch on the passenger side of the top. I tested both switches the truck and roof. The cam switch seems to be sticking. Had my wife hold the top button down on the console and I took my finger and worked the switch and the top started to cycle. Looks like I am going to replace the switch. Thanks for all your help. Happy New Year's

 

One last question? Where can I find this switch or a part number? Thanks again

 

Your best bet is to clean it with an electrical contact cleaner and hope it keeps working. I am not aware of any place to buy one except maybe Ebay and it may have the same issue.

 

I do have so Electrical cleaner spray. I'll give it a shot.

 

Good people,

I have developed problems with the onvertible top on my '05 Roadster. I followed (even printed the whole thread!) Pizzaguy's convertible top troubleshooting page and followed it. The top seems to close when open, but when closed and I turn the D handle the windows go down and the rear window unlatches from the tonneau cover, but then everything stops.

Following the troubleshooting guide, I first checked and cleaned the divider switch in the trunk. That didn't seem to work so I bypassed it. It worked once after that and I celebrated too soon. I then turned attention to the top open switch (above the passenger's head). I cleaned that switch with electronics cleaner. It switches. Top still doesn't work. I found a replacement top open switch and replaced that little bugger. I finished that today and when I tried to open the top by turning the D handle the windows went down and the rear window popped loose from the tonneau cover and everything stopped again. Meaning -- no change. Top still doesn't work. Not frustrated yet but getting there. To be honest, I didn't notice a difference between the old and new top open switches. They both clicked. Could it be something else?

I am in South Africa. I say that because my XF is my ride to the office and the weather is generally very nice here almost year round (think southern California). I used to use my top daily without any trouble. However, since the problem started, I am stumped. And the worse part is that I don't know it is bad until the back window pops out of the tonneau cover and then everything stops. That means to get it back down, I have to pop the license light, push the little bellows to free the trunk lock and then manually lock the top back into its closed position using that little allen wrench. Just a PIA.

I had installed all new cylinders from Top Hydraulics. Did that last year. Am wondering if one of the Hall Effect sensors could be causing this trouble.

I'd greatly appreciate any advice.

John

 

You are not being clear here. Do you mean the rear window bow unlatches but does not move and the pump stops running or does the pump still run?

If the pump keeps running, your fluid level is low. If the pump stops, we have sensor/cycle trouble.

Get this in your head: If, when putting the top DOWN, the pump runs, then the both of those switches are fine. Go back and read my thread again, I explained this as plainly as I could.

Why not do the electric trunk lock delete and make life easier?
GO HERE and READ THE ENTIRE POST slowly. Do only the electric latch fix, not the emergency release fix:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...g=1#post614955


That is a distinct possibility. I'd suspect the tonneu cover latch sensor, since that's when things stop. But it's hard to say.

 

Thanks, Pizzaguy. Correct. I wasn't clear on this...

You are not being clear here. Do you mean the rear window bow unlatches but does not move and the pump stops running or does the pump still run?

If the pump keeps running, your fluid level is low. If the pump stops, we have sensor/cycle trouble.
++++++++
When I try to open the top by turning the D ring the windows go down, the rear bow unmatched and pops up about an inch and the pump stops running.

I checked the pump level and it is still at its full mark. (As an aside, I changed the fluid with Pentosin when I put in the new cylinders.)

Will try the other bypass procedure you cited and report back. Thanks again. Too nice of a ride to give up on it.

John

 

Please, if you sort this all out, report back so others can learn.

 

That trunklid/deck lid cam delete procedure went well enough. Now I can get into the trunk without popping the license light (always wanted to do that and am glad it is done).

After doing the top reset procedure and leaving the top DOWN/OPEN, when I start the car the convertible top light blinks. It does nothing when I press it.

 

Interestingly, my top seems to be worse off than it was before. When I put the top down manually (either after doing the 3x reset procedure with the engine running) the convertible top light blinks quickly even when the tonneau cover is down and locked. When I turn the key off, the convertible top switch light stays on for about five minutes. When the top is down and I press the blinking convertible top light switch, nothing happens.

When I put the top up manually, the convertible top switch light goes out once I lock it down with the D ring.

With the engine running and I undo the D ring, the windows go down. When I press the convertible top switch the pump activates, the rear bow raises about one inch, the pump stops and the convertible top switch light begins blinking. I used Klaus's procedure to check the tonneau cover switch. That seems fine. All electrical connections seem fine. Am stumped.

Will reread Pizzaguy's long convertible top explanation again. I thought I understood it before. For instance, for the top to go down, the luggage divider switch needs to be activated (or bypassed) and the top open switch needs to be open. Got it.

Then, with the top fully down, it should go up as it doesn't need the top open switch for the tonneau to lift and the top moving up procedure to begin.

I am missing something, just don't know what. Thanks for reading, thinking and lending a thought or two! John

I che

 

I"m super busy, but again: The divider switch in teh trunk and the switch over the passenger head are NOT NEEDED for the top to go up. If the top won't go UP, it's gotta be something else.

ODDDLY, my top has quit working as well. My wing wont move at all, it's stuck up.

So, I have my own fish to fry..................................

 

Good luck with your top and wing fish, Pizzaguy!

I think I may have found the problem -- the rear bow latch microswitch seems to be off. I tested the tonneau switch with a multimeter and it seemed to indicate continuity and not when switched. Not so with the rear bow latch switch. That puppy is dead. Tried several times with the ohm meter and didn't get it to work at all. As I had replaced all of them when I replaced all of the cylinders I didn't expect any of those newer things to die. But I guess everything has its time.

I assume that when the top is DOWN the circuit should be open. But if mine doesn't open, the car probably thinks that the top is down. At least that is all I can figure out. In my mind, it could also explain why the system seems fine when the top is up. The windows go down when I loosen the D handle. And when the rear bow begins lifting the thing stops -- probably because the system is looking for the rear bow latch microswitch to switch when the bow unlatches.

So, I washed the car, detailed it and parked it. Will contact Top Hydraulics and see if they can help me.

This is just my hypothesis as of now. But with the divider switch bypassed, the top open switch confirmed good, the tonneau lock switch confirmed good, all of the Hall Effect sensors in place, and the rear bow lock microswitch confirmed bad, I believe I may have narrowed it down.