I definately did take into consideration of your post.... I just figured to start with the problem being the siren alarm as a ton of people posted about it and it made sense when I was able to pull fuse # 9 and then everything shut off and didn't come back on. It was the same symptons as one would expect when disconnecting that fuse but it was a couple of days later ( today ) when the side marker, tail lights and fog lights randomly came on and would not go away... having that happen I realized it was time to look into this by taking to the dealer.

 

I didn't miss the replies - I've been researching that thread actually that was posted about water in the trunk but I had hoped it wouldn't go that far to be such an issue, it would seem to me like this is a design flaw if it has been going on for 10+ years on the SLK models. Is there a recall on this so it is fixed properly? this can cause the battery to failure and electrical issues that obviously will cost a lot to fix and even then you're not certain if its done totally right because of the design flaw that it can and will eventually gain water back in that area of the fixed SRT spoiler getting leaky and whatnot.

I do have time to tinker around with it but I also don't want to break something in the process and I also need to be able to find a way to shut the alarm and the fog lights and side marker lights so I can work on the car without the alarm turning on since it does have that backup re-chargable battery in it.

Any options there?

Thank you for that information. So my best bet would be depending on the results tomorrow is to get the car back home, find a way to disconnect the battery without having the alarm go crazy ( may be this is WHERE I Should get into the siren alarm area and actually just disconnect it ) and then from there I can work on the car while I wait for the parts to come in while my battery will need to be disconnected in the mean time and then re-connected if I need to drive it and whatnot, also, by doing all this, what would be a way to make drain holes in the area where water has collected so it can spill out in case this area somehow gets water tinkered in there, is there a how to guide on this? I would rather not drill holes in an area where I could splice a wire while doing that, thats a big concern..

 

fastfunfor2 shows how to add the drains in his post #22 with photos.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...you-trunk.html

 

Thank you!

If this is such an on-going issue with Mercedes Benz vehicles and since the SRT6 is going through the same exact thing, isn't there a recall on this issue? I would assume that something like this can do such damage to the electrical system and fry such expensive modules that it could catch on fire back there, its near by the gas tank and such as well.... isn't that a concern for it to be recalled? Since its prone to happen.... only a matter of time, right!????? any body have an idea if there is a recall either on Chryslers side or Mercedes Benz where they would cover the SRT6? any insight would be appreciated. I'm so thankful for the members here and of course the forum.

 

If there was a recall we would have told you, as for a fire none have been reported.
For a recall we would probably have to have a few toasted owners before one occurred.

 

sounds like we just need to make sure we check the gaskets on the spoilers....or is there more to the story?

 

Don't forget the seal around the gas cap door, it can leak there as well.

 

The Central Locking Pump/Security System Module is easy to replace. After you take off the interior of the trunk and remove the Styrofoam insert, it just sits there in a foam cover. Pop off the air hose assembly, disconnect 4 connectors and that's that. 15mins tops.

You might be able to just disconnect the black 18pin connector on the Security System Module to stop the siren from randomly going off. This connector has the siren signal output. I have not tried this. I would but I dont have this problem and it's still raining.

MB's solution is to turn it upside down and put it in a bag.

 

Maybe I should just put mine in a bag BEFORE I have a problem????


Doc, I pulled my wing a while back and re-sealed it and the mount points. I had noticed an occasional drip when I opened the hatch after rain or a wash. I think it was last summer.... it was the seal around the mounting plate that the RTV seal had been too close to the edge and had a small leak... I didnt have any leaks at the wing mounts.... but they got cleaned up good and RTV added to the O rings...

 

Okay, I have an update! you guys were certainly right! Water got into the modules and fried the circults. Was told that the Locking Pump Module is fried ( the tech found the circult board fried ) which is odd because the doors still unlock just fine! is that really bad then?? hmmm, and said that the Alarm Module is fried which is the cause of the erratic behavior of alarm going off and whatnot. They also said the Foam Cover that you put the wires through to house is also bad and needs replaced ( which is like $35 bucks for that and they needed to order it which can take a week to arrive. They did have the Modules though, funny huh?? of course, the expensive stuff....

Heres the estimate:

Replace both Locking Pump Module and the Alarm Module $1,761, includes parts and labor, taxes and supplies fee, oh yeah, that also includes the thick piece of foam in that price.

Okay, THEN, that doesn't include "finding the leaks" which I already read thankfully to our member here: fastfunfor2. Who stated that the leaks are located under the fixed srt wing on those 2 o-rings and of course by the fuel tank as well ( is that a for sure area that NEEDS to be worked on or water just goes through the fender but not actually inside the back trunk area where the modules sit? ), now for them to "figure out where the leaks are and then fix them, that can range from $100 to $300 for that ).

Stealership to the max!

All in all, this can range upwards of $2k to fix AND I'm not guranteed they will place my modules in a bag or flip them upside down! lol.

So this is where I am right now.... I'm planning on taking on this adventure and doing it my self. I will follow the instructions, is there a way to specifically find on eBay sellers selling the Modules for our exact one's that we have?? can someone link me? I tried putting in the parts numbers but no one has them listed as the actual title so I need to cross referrence and see which Mercedes Benz models and years actually used the exact same fitting modules that I will need to buy now.

I'm going to see about having the tech disconnect the modules completely so that I can drive back home without the lights staying on and then I'm going to start finding me the parts I need to replace this my self. I've always been good at working on cars so this should be a fun project, a way to continue the bond with my car, and of course SAVE MONEY!!!

 

The Mercedes central locking module can be had for less than $360 new from Autohauz, not in stock at the moment but ....
Part number is 170 800 08 48 not 17080000848 ( too many 0's)
Get the idea of more than one module out of your mind , there is only one.
I am sure the foam can be dried out, it may take a while.
http://www.everythingbenz.com/z/part...locking-system
http://market.autopartsfair.com/used...t-1601954.html

 

This is fantastic information, thank you so much.

Thank you for the links! I have to ask though, isn't there 2 modules back there though? The Central Locking Pump Module that made my side lights, tail lights and fog lights stay on?? and then theres the Alarm Module that started all the problems from the get-go that made my alarm go off erractially when I thought it was the siren alarm but apparently its the Alarm Module in the trunk? let me know because I thought it was two modules... if not, why would the service advisor say both modules needing replacement? in reality I'm assuming that the Locking Pump Module is actually the entire problem part here this whole time? and of course I will need to take the fixed wing spoiler apart and re-seal those area's and make drain plug(s) at the bottom of the trunk wells, great idea I must say!

 

The alarm goes off because the Locking Pump Module gives the wrong signal or fails to give the correct signal to the security system due to the moisture problems. Wrong signals or not the true signal triggers the alarm which is under the cowl on the firewall.
Seems to me that these cars need a sump pump fitted in the trunk.

 

Makes total sense! wow, thank you.

Okay, so my best bet here is going to be to disconnect the Central Locking Pump Module in the trunk area so that the side marker, fog lights and tail lights don't stay on, and then most likely I will take off fuse # 9 again so that it refrains from the siren alarm going off, or by taking the locking pump module off, will already in essense disarm the alarm as not working at all then since there would be no signal output to it, do I have that right?

I'll have to do these things in the mean time so that I can wait for parts to come in... I also think that the foam insert can just be placed out side to let it air dry out instead of having to pay some $35 bucks to replace, wow what a rip off! we're talking about foam here.

 

Another update for you all:

Went today to pickup my car, spoke with the Certified Crossfire Tech, told him about the forum and that I had a great group of owners here that knew their stuff!

I told the Tech to leave the interior panels apart for me. When I got there, him and I got to talking and I tinkered around down there to check things out in the trunk area. There was roughly 2 inches worth of water in there so I decided it was the right to time to make some drain holes (made two of them) on the right side where the Locking Pump Module sits in the foam casing. and I took the connectors apart on the module and saw where the water corroded apparently one of the connectors out of the four, the mechanic opened up the circult board and I saw some water staining inside with little bit of what appeared to be burn yellow marks from getting fried.

So far I was able to disconnect that module so every thing drives as it should and I was able to leave fuse # 9 in place since the signal won't be operable anymore to that output of the alarm since the module is disconnected. The car can be driven in the mean time and I am now on the look out for a module to buy so I can replace it. I took the foam insert out and will let it dry for a few days and see how that turns out.

My project now is to take the fixed spoiler wing off and re-apply new o-rings. Someone mentioned RTV seal, I know about that stuff. Would it be best to apply that in replacement of the o-rings or would it be best to use BOTH the RTV Seal and the o-rings for maximum protection from water?

Also I plan to plastic wrap the new Module, does Mercedes have a special made bag for the module that I can buy?? please advise. Thanks all, you guys are really rare and I'm SO thankful.

 

As far as I know, there is no "MB" bag. Once you get the leaks fixed, there isn't much of a worry. On the SLK, the leaks are from clogged drains causing the water to back up and leak into the trunk.

 

I see. I'd rather take some kind of precaution though and make some type of bag to put the module in "to be on the safe side" especially after this fiasco!

 

A heavy duty plastic bag will be fine. Use the RTV or a silicone sealant, don't use too much and the O-rings. You can use any suitable O-ring, buying from a dealer will get you the same ones as you can buy, but they will cost more, much more. Just get the correct size.
If you added holes they should not be under the pump unit as the bag may cover and seal them. Others removed the plastic plugs in the well.

 

Excellent information! thank you.

I didn't drill any holes down there, the drain plugs were removed with some needlenose pliers, theres actually some drain plugs in various spots in the trunk well on the right side where the module sits, I got the 2 main ones that sloped down ward in the lowest position where water would most likely sit if it was to be used as a catch trap. In this case, the two drain plugs were removed when there was the 2 inches of water in that trunk well and it certainly moved that water out of the trunk well REAL FAST! if there is one hole that would be underneath where the plastic bag would hold the module inside the foam box, at least I know that if any water would somehow get underneath, it would certainly fly on out quick, then again, if the foam box is in the way making a seal it won't really make a difference then, it still seals that spot out. From what I can see, the angle of the black stereofoam stand that sits below the foam box, the angle of it has a shape in the bottom where it doesn't cover the section of where my holes are placed so it makes those two spots perfect for draining area's. Side by side, at the lowest point of the trunk well for easy water flow to drip out.

 

Yes you should seal up the area around the fuel filler compartment. The rubber gasket that is there is not sufficient enough to keep water out. I've sat in my trunk and watched water leak inside from that area and follow the air hoses and wiring down right to the CLP Module (Central Locking Pump Module).

I've seen a picture of that MB plastic bag awhile back.

quoted from MB forum