Glad to hear you got your paddles in Dave. I never bothered bending the cruise stick back but Latemodel21 makes it sound soo easy, I may as well do it. In my case, it didn't affect functionality but the cruise, when pulled back, does touch the paddle a bit

 

Similar to Latemeodel21, I made a jig using a 2x4 but with a routed channel down it to accept the stalk to fit into and help shape it when pressure is applied to it. Just havent used it yet.

 

while the lever seemed to bend safely without the "routed channel" .... I like this improvement !

I have often used a (V) pulley to act as a mandrel when bending tubing ... this "routed channel" seems like a good way to go for ultimate safety (against compromising the tube while bending).

Nice addition Steve,
Chris

 

I'm thinking of clamping the tube securely in a form so that the inner ends of the stalks see no load due to rocking. Just hold the part with the form in it steady and heat and bend.

Last thing I want is to ruin the Multifunction Switch and/or Cruise Switch at who knows what horrendous cost to replace.

Is it agreed that these are plastic coated aluminum?

 

Relative to your plan to create a "form" (fixture) of sorts to keep the lever(s) from transferring force to the hidden associated components (attached to the levers yet inside the column) while you bend them ... I say you can never be TOO careful. So, while my experience doesn't lead me to believe the added precaution is required ... better safe than sorry : )

relative to your question of the construction of the levers .... I do know (with no small amount of certainty) that the VCS lever on the R170 SLK (not included on the crossfire I believe), which looks similar (and BENDS similarly) IS plastic coated aluminum. I do wish that someone who knows for sure what the turn signal and cruise levers are made of (who perhaps has a bent one from a wrecked car?) would share here. My Guess (having bent them all) is that they ALL are plastic coated aluminum.

Cheers,
Chris

 

From when I started this install (01-05-2013 post #91) I finished it today! Not a record time but it is now done and working.

Thank you!

 

And.......what are your impressions of how they perform in that bad boy ?

 

\
Jeez, and I thought I was slow.
Turbomar could teach you (and me) a thing or two.

 

Anyone know if there is a legible copy of the schematic for this anywhere? I have one, but I just can't make out the componants.
I would like to try this myself. Should be fun!


-Dave

 

Hi Dave,
The schematic to which you refer was out-dated before I even shipped the first kit (and the copy you have is most likely as legible as any other that was ever seen). The production version includes safe-guards that eliminate the possibility of creating implausible signals (namely, shifting through the forward gears while NOT in drive). Without the safeguards the implausible signals can and do disable the touch-shift functionality.

When you contacted me before, I was uncertain as to when more would be available ... but I am working on them now so please check in with me soon for updated info.

Cheers,
Chris

 

Will do! Looking forward to having a little more fun with the tune and other upgrades!

 

Has anyone in the Washington dc, Md, northern VA area done this conversion? I have the kit but am looking for a shop or someone to do this conversion for me in exchange for $$$.00

 

I find that the multi-function switch and cruise levers hit the left hand paddle when pulled toward you and that if you really tried you could pull a lever and trap it behind the paddle while turning - not nice. Also the cruise resume (I think) position cannot be made because the lever will come back far enough to get to the resume switch position.

So I am going to bend the levers, some say they are painted aluminum and others plastic levers. Any tips in bending them? Taking the switches off the car would be best I guess, I just don't want to put undue pressure on the switch itself. Rudy used a heat gun and it worked.

 

Could it be just your phat fingers in the way? I find none of the problems you speak of Dave.............then again, I am a "hand model"

 

No fingers involved, if I pull either lever it hits the paddle when the wheel is dead ahead.

I have posted the picture showing your model hands on this forum for all to see if you remember.

 

Steve does have really attractive hands.....and supple too.....if you know what I mean




When I discussed this with Rudy a couple years ago, he said if heating up the lever while on the car, he protected the dash and steering column with many layers of towels to insulate and protect them from heat damage.

 

Bump......

 

My favorite way to do this is to
1) move the wheel all the way out towards the driver and flip lever to "high beam"
2) wrap a towel around a piece of 2x4 and insert between lever and dash
3) adjust steering back towards dash as required to make Canadian substitute for 2x4 fit properly (proper fit has first inch of lever exiting steering column at 90° to column
4) Get a baseline by measureing from the tip of the multifuntion lever to parting line of upper and lower dash (below and left of the lest most heater vent)
5) push lever until it is 1/4" (6.35 canadian feet) closer to previously mentioned parting line.
6) check feel and adjust further as necessary.

Cheers,
Chris

 

If the shop/installer you find has any questions I will make myself available to talk to them on the phone (no charge of course) and, if they are comfortable with all aspects except modifying the steering wheel and/or modifying the shifter, you can send either or both to me and I will do it for a fair price.

Or, if you choose to do it yourself (considering 32Krazy! was able to do it ... probably anyone can : ) ,I can help you over the phone and/or you can send the wheel and/or shifter to me.

Cheers,
Chris

 

Thanks - so, is there a great shop folks in the DC area trust to do something like this?