rmcdaniel12 are you serious right now? Use this "internet of satin" you speak of and do some damn research. People jumped in and tried to help you out and inform you that you are ill-informed, don't shoot them down just because you don't wan't to accept that the problem isn't what you thought it was.

 

I just posted a book about those codes and troubles i had in the 74mm MAF and MB airbox thread. Others have had the same problems as well after going to the 74mm. My advice is to buy some MAF cleaner, TB cleaner, take everything back off, clean the TB till its nice and shiney, spray the MAF down (original Bosch one) put it in the 74mm housing and then put it all back together. Follow the instructions in the 74mm install PDF. There is also a white hose that comes from the firewall that goes into a black one, it is easy to losen that connection when working down there.

Third time doing it was the charm for me, torque it right and everything will fit like a glove when it's done right. You won't have to force any of the clips etc. If you have an ultra guage or other odbII reader it helps to see the MAF and TB% readings as well.

When I finally got it right it idled high 1-2K RPM and then settled down. It never idled high the previous times. TB position is 0 or less than 1% now where the 68mm was 1.5 - 2%.

I swore every time everything looked and felt tight but it must not have been, regardless no harm in trying it all again and after a couple times it only takes a few mins . Software is def not going to fix a physical problem, if it was there before the tune it's gonna be there after.

 

Awe.. he broke his toy and it's everyone elses fault.. were nothing but paid liers .. well at least your purchase will cover my house payment this month..

 

Let's just look at FACTS.. leave fiction and opinions out. Fact..your mechanic skills created an error prior to the tune..(see your own post if required). Fact..you expected a tune to fix your mechanical error.
Fact.. I posted nothing but truth about the tune.. Improved performance.. even disclaimed the "25 HP gain" when I posted a registered 11 HP increase with datalogging.

Now get bent all you want.. throw a hissy fit etc. I see it all the time from my grand daughter.

 

Sorry, I'm new here. Just got Eurocharged Tune first so that If I throw any codes I can check and clear them when adding bolt ons. ( intakes, throttle bodys, exhaust). I was going to do the TB and the NW single but now I wonder about the larger TB. Might just keep the stock TB, nw single, and now.... Sprint Booster! If anyone with an SRT6 bought one and thinks that their car is too responsive, PM me and cut me a deal!

 

Don't worry about Rmcdaniels12 trash talk on Eurocharged.. They do good work.

No I don't shill for them. But they did my NA way back when they were just tinkering with Crossies. Did my SRT as well a bit later. I haven't had them touch my toys for years. And everything still runs well.

Welcome to our loony bin.

 

If I'm reading correctly here.. You have an SRT6? You already have the largest throttle body on it. Unless you really want to go neck deep in custom work..

 

does the Sprintbooster effect mpg much? I dont want to burn a gallon of gas at every light.

 

Will it result in worse gas mileage? Of course, it is simply dumping more fuel at a faster pace, but for a few MPGs, it does make the car a lot more fun. With the new models, they have 3 modes, and one is completely off, so you could easily disable it if you are in city traffic...

 

Which model is best for SRT6. Version 1 or version 2 adjustable. Heard version 1 4 N/A is excellent if you to get "crazy"

 

Just my own observation here (not having a booster)..

As responsive as the car is with the tune.. wouldn't the sprint booster almost be overkill also? Just thinking out loud.. but the tune tweaks the performance along with quicker throttle response.. win-win for the same money isn't it? Not to mention any other upgrades you do, you get a free re-tune.

 

I had the EuroTune for a few months, then added the SB : OVERKILL ! ( got too many wifey-slaps )
The SB was the old style that couldn't be turned off, so I gave it back to maxcichon.
I don't think he ever put it back on his either .

 

I have a EC tune and think the throttle is still a little late to the party. No wife riding in my car and I drive it like I stole it, so this is only my opinion and driving style not shared by most respectable members here on the forum. I will eventualy get a SB.

 

YOU get an instant throttle just like the old days of a throttle linkage. Today they tame the throttle down thru the throttle position sensor. Giving you a lag in response. It all can't be tuned out, but by adding another electronic device, it can be manipulated into giving almost 100% throttle. The more HP you have the more response you will get. I even breath on mine and we have traction issues. Not what you would want in winter...but, you can get adjustable SB's...and you can use your winter mode....

 

I probably need one (selectable) on the wife's car.. She's good with it stock (for now anyways) and after driving mine and the vette (they seem pretty close on take off / throttle)

It kills me when I drive hers.. LOL.

 

So oledoc2u are you telling me I should get the version 1 for the N/A stick shift because that's the one with the most radical responds. Thank you very much for your help

 

I would HIGHLY recommend you get the adjustable one. For most SRT owners, the manual one is too much response, and the one made for the SRT is at the other end of the spectrum. With an adjustable one, you get the best of both worlds and the ability to turn it off.

Trust me, I have had 2 XFs, both with EC tunes and SBs, both make a very noticeable difference and work nicely together.

 

I have both on my NA , what can say it great and the wife love it to , but can say the tune is the best bang for the buck , now trash talking the very people that could help you ,is not way to get your car running the way it should , I can tell you this there is a lot know how here in this group of good people , so use the know and you will get how !

 

No, I was reading how people with Srt6 thought that the sprint booster was too much. Thats why they should give it up to a guy with an N/A.

I have the N/A 3.2 and I am looking to tweak it a bit. Did eurocharged tune, but I am used to a twin turbo 335i running 20 lbs of boost. I don't expect forced induction style kicks in the pants but I want it quick as I can get it. Car is plenty fast, but 4th, 5th, and 6th, gear are a drag. I'm looking for the most appropriate Sprint Booster for a manual N/A. Car is jumpy in first and I don't want to make it worse. I just want push from 2K to 6K rpms. I read how some people think sprint booster is too much but that there were different versions, SRT6, the automatic, the Mercades, etc that people here have experimented with. I want smooth, steady, push. It's difficult to pick through the N/A facts and the Forced Induction facts as both are prevelant in most threads.

 

I have the old type ( not selectable) sprint booster on both of my SRT's and never leave home with out them. You can pull off as easily or violently as you wish with the sprint booster. The trick is in the fine motor skills in that right foot. I would think that most people can master it in a few moments but I have had a few drive my coupe and prove that wrong. You also need to consider the rapid motion of throttle brake throttle in agressive driving when other cars are in close proximity. I think it comes down to personel preference but I sure enjoy that instant throttle on my cars.