Hey there,

I am new to this forum and done some searching around already but not really found solution so thought would try posting this. I recently had an issue with the "sticky key" so I followed your post on that problem and managed to resolved the problem. I have noticed thou that recently the horn doesn't appear to work but as I haven't used the car for a while previously to sorting out "the sticky key" I couldn't honestly say if that had anything to do with it!

Anyway just wondering if anyone had any ideas how I could check the horn, what I should look for etc? I have already check both fuses (main and one under bonnet) so I know its definitely not the fuses.

Also while I am here, this really isn't something I am concerned about it as its been like this for a good year but my air conditioning always is warm, even when I turn it to cold. Any suggestion on how to fix this? I am assuming it just a case of it needs re-gassing or whatever its called. Cheers

 

The fuses for the Horn are:

Fuse 4 in the Engine fuse block near the battery, it's a 200 amp and powers most of the car - if it was blown, the car would not run.
Fuse 6 on the Relay control Module (in the big box next to the battery, it's the module farthest from the battery). It only powers the horn itself, if this is blown, you will only loose the horn.

Assuming those are good (and we know the first one is, since the car runs) I'd look at the Horn Relay, it's on the Relay Control board I mentioned. Bad solder joints on that board are VERY common with these cars. Simply pull the module and have someone resolder EVERYTHING on the board! Takes about 10 minutes.

The circuit is simple, when you push the button(s) on the wheel, a contact is made providing a ground to the relay coil The relay activates, and 12 volts is applied to the horns. I do not believe you would have disturbed any of the wiring to the "clockspring" in the wheel when you fixed the key, and no one else has reported this problem that I can remember. You might inspect the wiring to the horns themselves as well.

The horn circuit is shown on page 8w-41-2 of the service manual, (available for download on this site in one of the technical areas - do a search for it, you'll find it).

I have no experience with the A/C. Fuses all good? Do you hear the clutch engage when you press the button? If so, then a recharge is needed, but the charge is not going to hold if the leak is not found and fixed first. Good luck with THAT system!

 

When you performed the sticky key mod, did you remove the steering wheel?

 

This is the simplest "fix".

 

turbomar - no didn't touch the steering wheel, just followed exactly what it said to do on the sticky key thread.

pizzaguy - I tried checking both fuses and both are fine. I also pulled out the RCM board and checked the circuit but don't think it needs soldiering as it all looks fine. It is very odd as I noticed when you press the horn that you can hear it making a noise from the RCM, almost as if it is trying to work but just "no horn noise comes out". Its all very odd, any suggestions anyone?

 

Remove the grille, remove the horns.
connect each one across the battery ( put on ear protectors first ).
If they work, then wiring problem, if not, then get some new horns.

 

alaxfire - bit lost by your reply to be honest. No idea what the grille is and no idea how to remove the horns....could you explain this is a bit more detail please? Or any links to manuals on how to do this? Cheers

 

Grille : the plastic thing on the front of the car between the headlights where the radiator gets it's air. To remove it, open the hood ( bonnet - you didn't say where you were located ) and remove the 4 8 mm screws from the top of it. Grasp it firmly about 6 inches either side of center and pull straight out.
You will then be able to see the 2 horns mounted to the center pedestal with 10 mm nuts.
Unplug the slip-on connectors, remove the horns, then you can touch one horn post to one battery terminal and use a short piece of wire to run from the other horn terminal to the other battery terminal ( like I said - ear plugs are nice ).

If either or both horns work, then the problem is in :
1. the horn switch(s) on the steering wheel.
2. the horn relay / fuses in the RCM ( module in the black box by the battery - RCM is the one closest to the engine ).
3. wiring.
( you are aware that the horn only works with the ignition switch in the on/run position, right ? - (( unless you did tighed1's "me so horney" mod ))

As to manuals, please click on the link in my signature ....

 

You can also rig a test harness by just unplugging the horns and run a set of wires to each horn from the battery, to see if they "Honk". That would eliminate the horns themselves (although I do not see how both would go bad at the same time). Removal of the front grill would help with easy access to the horns. Make sure you completely disconnect the horns fro the car wiring so as to not 'backfeed' any circuits!

 

This is one circuit that there is no worry about that, the wire from the two horns goes directly to the relay on the RCB.


You know, if one horn went bad years ago, the volume level would not drop THAT much and might go unnoticed, then say one horn went bad last week - it would explain how both could be bad.

 

Thanks for your replies, that helped a lot! I will give that a shot soon and hopefully that gives me more insight into why it doesn't work Cheers guys

 

I think this is asking for trouble, you will be pulling against the square lip on the clips and probably break a clip.
I find it best to tilt the grille forward at the top just enough to get your hand down the back and release each of the four clips by pushing it down. Yanking it straight out will ensure that you have less than four clips eventually.

This is plastic and as it ages it gets brittle, I was already down to two clips when I got the car, three if you count the one hanging on by the skin of its teeth. I intend to find a way to repair these clips or make new ones as required.

 

As I too am getting brittle with age, I will take your advise and be more gentle. Guess I've been lucky, still have all 4 clips intact after dozens of yanks.
Wait ! We are still talking about the grille, right ?

 

Think this is the first time I've seen a post on "how to properly"..
When it came time to pull mine off.. that yank it out just wasn't going to fly for the exact concerns you expressed. As you have noted is exactly what I figured out to do. No hesitations about doing it this way. Start at one corner and work your way across.

 

Hi There!

I'm having trouble identifying the Horn Relay. I believe its the one on the far left, but it looks different than relays in other cards. I know I've seen you can often times swap the horn relay with the rear defroster relay in order to run a quick test by switching them both and see if that works, but I'm finding it a lot harder to tell.
If I posed an image, would you be able to help further? Really appreciate your wisdom!

To note, fuses look good for horn.

Thanks again!
Tallulah

 

Hi, You do realize you're replying to a 10 year old post?
I think you can find replacement relays on e bay or contact tighed1 He's really good with these relays.
May I suggest that you make a new post in "Troubleshooting & Technical & Modifications".
Your post will get noticed more.

 

Well aware, it's not uncommon on this site to bring old posts up to the top. And as mentioned, I'm not looking to replace it, I'm looking to understand which part exactly is the horn relay as it's different from other cars I've seen - seems a lot more involved to remove the piece from this car than any other car I've done this with. I'm used to the relay being as simple as the fuse, pull out, plug in, etc. This one is quite different because it's within the BCM I believe. I'm hoping for a picture if possible

 

Part of the Relay Control Module (RCM) located in the black covered box next to the battery. The RCM has the fuses on the top.