I've replaced my purge valve. Is there a way to fix the charcoal canister. That's the only thing left I haven't replaced.

 

I had my purge valve unplugged for a few days and it ran great, but i couldn't put in more than 0.25 gallons of gas in before the pump shuts off.... then after plugging it back in still went to the gas station 2 times with the same result. Finally this afternoon it let me fill it up. Its running fine still so far, but i did pick up p2097 and p2099 codes.... i did see misfire on cylinder 2 a couple times previously. i might pull and replace those 2 plugs... I ruled out the coils and wires as i swapped them from the other bank when doing the intake.

 

I just replaced my purge valve today so I'll know if that fixes it Tuesday, but I don't think thats the issue.

While the purge valve was disconnected I blew into the feed line and ended up with a puddle of fuel on the ground under the rear of the car.... so I'm not sure, but I don't think that should occur.... I would assume blowing into the purge line would have just bubbled into the gas tank....
Peehaps I'm wrong, but that seems the logical thing that would have happened...
Any ideas?

 

I doubt the purge valve/solenoid is your problem.
There is a shut off valve on top of the charcoal canister. It is normally open. When you blow through the vacuum line at the purge valve the gas in the line probably came out that shutoff valve. The shutoff valve is controlled by the PCM and only closes when a test of the system is in progress. The test uses the fuel tank pressure sensor to detect a leak when the PCM closes the shutoff valve and pulls a vacuum on the lines through the purge valve/solenoid.
It may be that the fuel tank overfill check valve is not operating for some reason. My understanding is that overfill check valve is basically a float operated valve that blocks fuel from flowing into the tank when refueling. It causes fuel to rise in the intake tube and trips the gas nozzle at a gas station to close. There are also vent/rollover valves inside the fuel tank piped to the canister which may be compromised. Some how gas is getting into the canister. That should not happen. You need to get under the car, pull the plastic cover off and take a good look at what is happening back there. Taking the canister off is not a big deal.
Be certain the lines at the fuel pump and filter are in their proper connections. Seems a good scan tool (DRB III or emulator) could get some info and give a clue as to what is happening. I sure would pull the canister off and see if it is full of gasoline.

From your post #62" I had my purge valve unplugged for a few days and it ran great, but i couldn't put in more than 0.25 gallons of gas in before the pump shuts off.... then after plugging it back in still went to the gas station 2 times with the same result."
This seems to point at the tank overfill check valve, as mentioned above, or the fuel filler tube check valve did not open.
Frustrating! Good Luck!! Getting at the tank is a real pain, with a lot of broken plastic clips as these cars age and the plastic becomes brittle. That's why I'm saying get a scan from a tool designed for the car if at all possible. It may save some unnecessary work and broken plastic. Frustrating, GOOD LUCK !!

READ my post # 58. Makes me wonder if the shut off valve is stuck closed causing a vacuum that sucks fuel from the tank into the canister; Not sure about that. Just kinda thinking out loud.

 

I have a shutoff valve in the box sitting here too... i have been trying to locate a charcoal canister too. I got a used one, but it arrived with the Y shaped outlet broken off and missing. So now I need to find yet another.

 

I don't know if this is what you're looking for, but I found this. You might have to call to see if it's available.
Vapor Canister

 

Still getting the rough idle and no codes. Yesterday my fuel light started flashing. When i got home ran codes and got P0455. I've replaced fuel cap, fuel pump and purge valves already. When it warms up i think I'm going to pull the vapor canister. See if anything is broke or has a hole in one of the lines.

 

Since you're grasping at straws, and haven't found any vacuum leaks, misfires could be a sign of a camshaft sensor going bad, and stalling might be a crankshaft sensor. I just picked up a both sensors from pelican parts for ~$75 (bosch brand) since my xf through a P0335 code, and has misfires in cylinders 2 and 6.

 

The 0455 means there is a leak so bad, that when the evap system tries to pressurize the tank for the evap test, it cant because SOMETHING is bleeding the air out just about as fast as it is pumped in.

WARNING: Do not overlook the chance that the tank is pressurizing fine, and the SENSOR is bad, lying to the ECU.
You can work to "fix the leak" all you want to, but if there IS no leak, you are wasting your time.

 

So the charcoal canister vent valve seems to be the culprit. I dropped my car off to have them install the one I ordered and they informed me the one I gave them wasn't the same and sent me side by side pics, and they were correct. So I had a used canister and valve that i ordered, but the Y shaped hose nipple on it was broken off and rendered the canister useless. So i brought it to them so they could use the valve. they installed it and the car would barely start, and would nearly immediately shut off. They put the old one back on and it ran again.
I have looked and not been able to locate a correct valve. The one I ordered was for a 2004 SLK 320, and it does show a pic of the part that arrived, which is clearly different from the crossfire one which does not appear on rockauto nor anywhere I looked.
Has anyone found one anywhere?

 

Where is the fuel tank sensor located?

 

There are two on ebay ( entire canister for a little over $100) Look at the part numbers on the correct parts which where on your car. The canister I believe should be 1704701259 the shut off valve will have it's own number. Numbers that start with 193 are specific to the Crossfire, NOT Mercedes, but the 170 number or 210 etc will be a Mercedes part. Some of those parts are now discontinued, but many are still avaliable directly from Mercedes or a supplier like Pelican, FCP euro etc.

 

The pressure sensor is inside the gas tank. It can be tested with a DRB III or similar scan tool by removing the regular gas cap, screwing on a test cap and thru that cap slightly raising pressure and observe result via scan tool. I doubt that is your problem. More than likely you have a faulty shut off valve on the vapor canister. Probably easier to replace entire canister ( two available on ebay for a little over $100 )
You could also try a smoke test and see if you observe a leak near the vapor canister.

PS The car tests the EVAP system by creating a vacuum thru the purge valve in the engine bay and shutting the shut off valve on the canister then reading the pressure switch located in the fuel tank.

 

Thank you just order one. Now I have to wait for spring so I wont freeze replacing it.

 

I'm curious as to what the theory is for the evap. system causing the rough idle? Is the thought that there is a leak in the vent line between the purge solenoid and the throttle body, or in any of the vent line components? Does the purge solenoid only open at idle? Thanks in advance.

 

I don't think so, because my issue wasn't only at idle, I'd be cruising in closed loop and it would also act up, like the engine was cutting out or bucking too.

 

Not sure if this is any help, but may be related. My '05 SRT6 often starts with a miss. After I drive for a minute or two, I stop, turn off and back on - the miss is gone and she runs smooth as silk. This happens with such regularity I think it must be something others have recognized. I spent a few thousand chasing a misfire, changing plugs and coils (good idea fior new owner anyhow) only to eventually see it as this. I think there must be a fault and then a re-set in the ECU or something like that.
Am I ringing any bells? Anyone have a similar condition?
Crow13

 

Yes. My last two Roadsters, both manuals, have a WEIRD glitch in the ECU software. Goes like this:

Start car and drive for 1/2 hour or more.
Pull over. Shut the car off and sneak into the weeks to quickly answer nature's call or throw trash into a roadside trash container.
GEt back in car, start up and head down hill right away.
As you take your foot off the gas to coast, the throttle plate will vary in it's setting as the ECU tries to understand why the engine is speeding up.
The ECU will soon not only open the throttle plate, but start to widen the pulse on the injectors, adding fuel, and the car will accelerate away from you.
You CAN NOT stop this other than pushing clutch in (engine will speed up to 4100 rpm and sit there) or turn key off.
Turning key back on, in about 200 feet, the car will do it again.

Once you get to flat ground, all is OK.
If you DO NOT stop before descending the hill, there won't be any problem, it's on startup of a hot engine only.

Only two others on this forum have reported what I describe. The downgrade must be rather STEEP to make it happen and the car must be a manual.

I totally agree.

 

I've been a motor head since I was a kid, but the Crossfire completely escaped my notice until about two years ago. I searched for quite awhile and eventually purchased a 2005 SRT6 coupe from a fellow in Minnesota. 66k miles and well cared for (but no maintenance records &#128577 from the git-go, I had a problem with a misfire. First, changed all the coils and plugs, spent a bundle at a couple of well respected indie shops trying to track it down. Got almost no driving in my first year because I didn't want to drive with a miss and risk killing the cat.

Eventually, I noticed that even if it started with a miss, after a minute or two, I could shut it down and restart and she'd be humming on all six cylinders. Sort of like a re-boot. As we're just getting into the new driving season, I thought I'd reach out and see if you folks had any intelligence on what could be causing this intermittent miss.







Attached a few photos of my coupe, called "Frauke".

Thanks in advance for considering this request.

 

The Mercedes Swap Shop does a lot of work on the Crossfire with ECU and TCM, perhaps if you reached out to them they could remap your ECU ( or tune it for you) and this problem may go away.
CLICK; Mercedes Swap Shop