Try this from ala__xfire
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tor-above.html

 

I removed mine from underneath. Not a ton of wiggle room but doable
best to have someone there as a spotter, mine twisted on the way out and pinned my fingers. It took 15 min to free it up

 

UPDATE: Finally figured out how to extract the alternator and after a few bruises on my arms I have installed the new one and a new serpentine belt (I figured as long as I had it off it made sense to put a new one on). Car starts and runs fine; however, now I have no air conditioning! It appears the clutch is not engaging, fuse is fine, switch works (you can hear the relays click) but nothing but warm air. Before assuming it is the compressor, is there anything else I can check to see why its not engaging?

Thanks for all the support, as a very senior mechanic I can handle all kinds of engine issues but these electronics frustrate the daylights out of me. I think its time to trade back for a pre-1970's vehicle that I am more comfortable working on.

 

1) I remember, once a LONG time ago, around 2010, this happened after someone changed the idler pulley and belt.
The guy managed to route the belt such that the A/C compressor was running BACKWARDS. (I can't remember if it was a Crossfire or some other car... may have been something I read on Ford Ranger Forums.)

2) What "relays" are you hearing click? There is no relay that activates the A/C clutch, the clutch is activated via a large pass transistor on the main Climate Control Module board. The only "click" you might hear is the clutch's electromagnetic actuator or the servos in the throttle body. If you hear a click on pressing the A/C button, I think your clutch is engaging.

3) The Climate Control Module will not engage the A/C clutch if:
There are certain cooling system errors/alarms seen by the ECU, it tells the Climate Module to not engage the clutch.
The pressure sensor reports too high or too low pressure in the refrigerant system (you damaged a line and let the gas out, or you knocked the connector off the sensor, I have no clue how you'd do that just changing the alternator).
Other issues I don't know about.

Just know that the system, like all systems in modern cars, is tied to other systems and is under supervisory control of the ECU.

 

I checked my drawing and the photo I took of the belt before removing it, the new one is in the same position so everything should be fine. Don't recall knocking off any connectors, but I did remove and replace the intake air filter body, so I guess anything is possible. Air was ice cold before the issue with the alternator, that's why I was surprised it is only blowing warm air now.

 

If the clutch is engaging, shouldn't I be able to see the center section (inside the pulley) spinning? Regardless of the a/c switch position (on/off) the pulley is turning but the center section remains stationary.

 

Replace fuse # 15 in the engine fuse box. The DUO valve might not be getting power. That was part of the problem I had when my car was blowing out warm air.

 

If the center section on the pully is not turning the clutch is not engaging.

 

Thanks to everyone who has tried to offer assistance. I'm almost 80 and while I have built cars and race engines most of my life, I am NOT an electronics guy, so I appreciate the guidance. UNFORTUNATELY, the vehicle now has developed a new set of problems in addition to the previous ones. Let me explain: After following the test suggestions it was determined that the alternator was the primary issue that had causes the car to die. I replaced the alternator with a new Valeo unit and engine started and ran fine. Drove it around the neighborhood without problems, trans shifted normal, windows operated normal, but did not have any air conditioning, thus the follow-up quires about the clutch not engaging. Check of all the fuses determined "all" are in good condition. Now while attempting to determine the cause of the lack of compressor operation, I figured I would lower the top so I could at least drive the car in this 90-100 degree heat we're currently experiencing (Florida) and all it did was "beep" at me. I checked the sensors and the hydraulic fluid level, all appeared normal. When running the motor while attempting to lower the top, it ran for approximately 1 minute then stalled. So, NEW Problem! It starts fine, then after the idle lowers it runs for several seconds and then quits. Do I have an electric gremlin? So, I have no AC, I can't get the top down (I could lower it manually but that doesn't really solve anything) and now the engine won't stay running. Ideas?? Anyone want a nice looking garage queen?

 

You said you replaced the alternator; after doing so did you have the charging system and battery checked? How old is the battery? Do you have the car running when operating the top? Do you know how to manually lower and raise the top?

 

Battery was replaced just before alternator had to be replaced, now fully charged and system working perfectly as specified. Car was running when attempt to lower top took place. Yes, I do know how to do manually, but as I said, that won't make much difference now that engine won't continue to run.

 

As far as the engine not running, have you tried replacing the RCM (relay control module)?
The fuel pump relay is inside of it. These relays as well as the solder joints are failing due to age. If you don't know what I'm referring to, check out this post: LINK to RCM replacement
NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect the battery to replace the RCM.

 

I had replaced the original rcm with a one modified with the "I'm so horny" mod, when I previously encountered problems. Then that one hiccuped and it was sent back and repaired and everything seems to be good. Questioning whether or not engine the would even start if the rcm was again having issues, I didn't think it to be the cause. Imagine my surprise when today, I swapped it out with a new one I keep as a spare and the engine fired up and ran fine. Didn't fix any of the other problems, but at least the car runs again. Thanks for the question. Now I have to see if there is a way to determine what went wrong with the modified rcm again!

 

That's really weird about the RCM.
Hopefully you can get that and the other issues resolved soon.