My first post after lurking and reading for quite a while, and of course it is looking for help from those that know these cars well. Car is a 2006 roadster with 74,000 miles and all worked correctly when daughter drove to work in morning but did not when she left to come home.

Here is a summary of the symptoms;

• Key fob is not unlocking doors, the lights will flash once/thrice when pushing unlock/lock, but that is only response
• Door key will unlock the drivers door only, no response anywhere else
• Console switch will lock both doors and trunk as it should, can hear locking pump in action when using this switch
• Electric top operation appears to be collateral damage as well, will just beep in protest when switch is hit (windows drop as normal when top unlatched)

I have spent quite a few hours searching here and trying to locate source of problem, but have not found anything yet. Here are my actions/thoughts thus far;

• Trunk is dry and locking pump looks great with no evidence of ever having been wet. It appears to operate correctly with console switch
• Key fob is communicating with the car as evidenced by lights flashing, so SKREEM is apparently communicating w/ fob & car
• Door key appears to connect directly to BCM based on diagrams found here, but does nothing other than unlock driver door
• Console switch also appears to connect directly to BCM and seems to work normally, so I infer that BCM can communicate with the locking pump
• I have pulled/checked/reinstalled fuses mentioned in threads here with no impact (#25, 34 & 37 by memory), battery terminals clean and tight with 12.9x volts at battery

It appears likely to me that maybe the BCM could be the culprit, but I really don't know how do diagnose from here and wiring diagnostics/repair is certainly not a strength for me. I am hoping someone here that is more knowledgeable can provide some advice & guidance. Thanks in advance for thoughts, opinions and advice.

 

You are right on all counts above except:
The door lock cylinder is wired to the SKREEM, the SKREEM, in all cases, tells the BCM what to tell the CLP/SSM to do.

You seem to understand this correctly:
The console switch is just another input to the BCM, which, again, tells the CLP/SSM what to do.

Fuses:
35 - Door Lock/FOB side of SKREEM
37 - Engine Start side of SKREEM

So the console switch locks and unlocks the doors but the Key Fob only flashes the turn signals?
And a key in the door only locks/unlocks that door?

If this is the case, I'd guess that one half of the SKREEM is not working at all. In the service manual, under the wiring chapter, look for "Power Door Locks" for a diagram of how the lock cylinder tells the SKREEM what to do, and how the SKREEM talks to the BCM. There are three wires running from the SKREEM to the BCM that convey what the SKREEM wants the CLP/SSM to do (and this also is how the SKREEM tells CLP/SSM to turn the alarm system on or off).

 

Thanks for the feedback Pizzaguy. To first address the questions within your post;
Yes, the console lock switch will lock/unlock both doors and the trunk, and the key fob only causes lights to flash with no lock action
Yes, the door key will only operate the drivers door, no other actions

Thanks for the clarification about door key working through the SKREEM, somewhere I had seen an exhibit indicating it went straight to BCM. That makes more sense in tying in with key fob not working the locks. I will look at the wiring chapter and see if it gives me any leads on the fix. I will also mess with fuses #35 and #37 again, just in case. Hoping to have some time this weekend to mess with it some more. Have to admit, hoping it isn't the SKREEM as I see they aren't available anymore and sending everything off to be rebuilt appears to be only solution - and it is an expensive solution.

I will likely be back in just a few days with an update, and most likely a few more questions. Thanks again.

 

Hi John,
Maybe some more info - is the car an automatic or manual. Does it start and drive okay. Have you replaced the FOB battery recently? Any codes or dash lights?
-Jerry

 

If it is your screem, MSS "Mercedese Swap Shop" and Needswings repair them. Reach out to them for info. They are online.

 

Jerry,
The car is an automatic and starts/drives just fine. We bought the car about 6 months ago for our daughter to drive when she got her license, replaced fob batteries then as I recall. No CEL showing, although one quirk I haven't figured out yet is the engine service reminder wrench, which will not reset. It shows the wrench and -29100 since the day we bought it and reset process isn't working to reset it.

thx,
john

 

Changed out fuses #35 and #37, even though they were good. No impact. Checked power at fuse box and #35 is always hot with #37 hot with key, as they are supposed to be. The only other thing I see in the flowpath for the SKREEM is the Remote Keyless Entry Relay, which appears to be fed by fuse #35. Anybody have thoughts on possibility of a relay issue? SKREEM rebuilds seem to have become very expensive and that is a tough hurdle unless certain that is the problem. It also would have the 16 yr old daughter's car down for a few weeks, which is almost certain to make my life miserable somehow...:-)

 

That relay is used by the SKREEM to flash the turn signals, nothing more. It is not your problem.

 

Thanks for your continued input Pizzaguy. It takes me a minute to work through the process and try to understand the system, and I appreciate your patience as I worked my way towards getting your initial conclusion that part of the SKREEM appears to be bad. It certainly seems that the process of elimination has reduced it down to that. Time to look at the SKREEM rebuilding options I guess.

Thank you all for the thoughts and guidance.

 

Please refer to post #5.

 

Roger that Zeracer. I had scanned their sites briefly last week to get a feel for possible costs, but will now dig in deeper. Thanks.

 

They will help you trouble shoot, if you call them. They have supported us for years and know their stuff.

 

Hi John,
You might want to make a quick check of the can buses - the SKREEM is the termination for (I think) CAN BUS B - you check it at the ECU, pins 4 and 11, connector still plugged in, probing the back of the connector (but look at the wiring diagram to be sure), ignition off, no key, should read ~60 ohms. Then the CAN BUS is between the BCM and the CLP - check it at the BCM (I don't remember the pin numbers) - it should also read ~60 ohms. If either reads 120 ohms or 10k ohms, you might have a problem with your wiring.
-Jerry

 

I would check the BCM with a drb3

 

Final Update on issue and hopefully this contributes to helping somebody else.

• After informative discussion with GannyX, I searched out a working DRB-3 and got the car in to be scanned - Thanks again James
• To maybe help others in the Mid-Ohio Valley area, I found DRB-3 with Chrysler card at Kinchloe Motors in Parkersburg, WV
• Scan showed 2 items saved;
  • BCM scan showed open circuit at Siren
  • SKREEM scan showed driver's cylinder lock switch sense (unlock short to ground)
• Left car at shop for them to track down ground issue, which they approached by sequentially disconnecting/checking each item on Fuse #9
• Short found, in of all places, the wiring to the dome light. A screw holding in passenger side visor had been run in between the 2 wires to dome light and over time had worn through insulation and shorted the 2 wires to each other. Just a highlight to everyone that wiring in that area runs very close to the visor screws.
• With the dome light wiring patched up everything is working perfectly again and problem codes are nor reappearing

I found it quite interesting that the scan results pointed to a couple issues that were not related to the root problem. I thought it would be a problem in the driver's door after seeing the scan results, but obviously a grounded circuit can be tricky.

Anyway, I wanted to publicly thank James, another huge help from MSS that didn't result in any gain to them. Very commendable. Hopefully the DRB-3 source and experience with where the wiring failed may be helpful to another Crossfire owner in the future. Thanks to everyone for their input and assistance with my problem.

 

Thank you for the update and information!

 

Ditto that, too many do not report solutions.

 

Im glad, I could help. Now I can add the solution to my answers and another place to check for exposed wires.