Hi there, you can do that or you could disconnect the wiring plug by just pulling the supply off where it goes in the pump

Either will be fine

 

IF you disconnect that pump, you MIGHT get a bunch of codes and CEL, as the pump is for the cats and the emissions!


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Hi there, it didn't generate any additional codes in mine and I had it disconnected for a while as I was waiting on new pump arriving,

 

I pulled the 40A fuse after determining that I could not desolder the old relay without a proper desoldering pump. Engine sounds better without that pump running erratically.

CEL is currently off due to battery being disconnected during abortive desoldering attempt and not having enough miles driven after reconnecting battery.

Here's a question to which someone might have the answer: Assuming that all codes are cleared will the P0410 return if the 40A fuse is missing? Has anyone traced the schematic on this point?

Thanks

 

Hi there, my best guess would be no it wouldn't generate the code again, but wouldn't put money on it, another one of those that you can try, if the fuse is out then obviously the pump won't be operating on start up anyway so you'll be safe in the knowledge it won't operate

 

Where is this part located. I looked under the the hood of my srt6 and could not find it. Any help would be appreciated.

 

If you remove the air filter housing it's located at the top and the front of the engine, if it's not there could it have been removed by previous owner and not replaced, just a thought if you'd possibly just bought the car
If you google up secondary air pump for crossfire, that'll show what it looks like,

I'm not trying to be sarcastic, just trying to help in case you're not sure what it looks like.

Regards

Teak

 

to Ed's SRT6
That info is incorrect. On a SRT6 the air pump is located on the drivers side on the fender aft of the radiator. The fuse he speaks of is located on top of the Relay Control Module (RCM) which is located inside the large black plastic box on the passenger side alongside the cars battery. The fuse is the large orange one that says 40 on it. Perhaps you should gives more information. It will helps us; help you. A picture of the RCM is in post #329 of this thread.

 

Ed's SRT6, In another thread you mentioned your horn not working; It also has a fuse located on the RCM. I suggested you look into that in your previous thread, and I also suggested you get a good scan of your car for DTC Diagnostic Trouble Codes. Have you done that?
By the way, you mentioned the car has "duel" intakes I believe. The horns are located behind the grill in front of the radiator. The same space the air filters for your Needswings duel intake air filters are located. Perhaps some one disconnected the wires leading to the horns, or maybe even removed them to make room for the air filters. You can remove the grill by unscrewing the attachment screws you see at the top and then gently putting your hand down to the base of the grill to unhook four plastic tabs. Assuming you have a stock grill. You should check and be certain those electric wires to the horn are even connected.

 

Regards

Teak

 

CEL codes came back on after pulling fuse. Proof that one cannot bypass CEL by pulling 40A fuse for secondary air injection pump.

 

Hi there, that was interesting, I hope you get it all sorted.

 

My plan is to use the newly purchased desoldering pump to remove the old relay. If that fails, I may then reach out to tighed1 for a repair. My hesitation there is the number of days I would be without my daily car even though I don't necessarily drive it daily now. The other fallback is to purchase a remanufactured unit which costs more money, but incurs less down time.

If it weren't for an upcoming California smog check in December I would just run the car without the fuse.

 

I had the pump disconnected for about a month, i just pulled the wire off the pump with no ill effects, while I was waiting on the new arriving, I was informed the pump only works on start up for about 30 seconds, as you know my car is non SRT but it ran fine till I got the new one.


Regards

Teak

 

My understanding is the pump runs on startup for a short period for initial fuel/air mixture adjustment until CATS attain temperature and the ECU takes over. My experience was the P410 code was generated because although the pump ran correctly at startup, the dirty/corroded contacts on the RCM relay caused the relay to intermittently chatter (make/break) while driving. It took awhile but I finally made this observation when came to a stop at a light one day and I heared the high-pitched whine coming from the the air pump again uneccessarily. Fortunately, replacing the RCM solved the issue for me without needing to replace/rebuild the air pump.

 

Good luck with it

 

Sometimes a relay sticks, especially when the contact points are badly pitted and an increase of current 'welds' the contacts together. This is intermittent at best since a vibration can 'break' that bad weld loose. Also, the pump on the N/A will also intermittently run after a cruise, when you decelerate and stop (like at a light). It is only the sensors reacting to the specific readings to inject fresher air into the exhaust. It is normal to have the pump run on occasion after the engine is warmed up. It runs based on the load and how the sensors read the exhaust.


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I am often an idiot so no controversity is intended about this post. This is a tip about improving your chances of getting a good engine part when buying used parts. I needed a secondary air pump. The new bosch part was expensive (list price $850 best internet price about $280) compared to an ebay listing for the MB part number for the same Bosch part. By looking for the Mercedes SL500 part (a little newer model car that uses the same part number) I was able to get a 2011 part from crashed car for $34 with shipping. Then I was able to buy the ebay square trade 12 month warranty for $8. I also like it when the junk yard seller lists the donor car details so you can get an idea of how much the part was used.

 

Personally, I wouldn't buy a 2011 RCM pulled from a junkyard car when a brand new RCM replacement is $125 that you can install yourself but that's just me.

 

I do not think he was talking about an RCM.