So my dilemma at the dealership started when I requested a State inspection to be performed but, they are trying to get me to replace tires with plenty of tread left....I have ~10k miles on my Toyo Proxes T1R's. Also none of those miles have seen the track only the highway.

I called bullshit on them and said I can't justify buying them now as they are good for another 5k at least. Problem is they DON'T manufacture T1R's anymore and are currently being replaced with the T1 model tire.

My only solution is to buy brand new rear tires that are a completely different brand. Has anyone ran different brand tires from the front compared to the rears before?

Part of me wants to be stubborn and ignore getting my inspection done and waiting until I feel I need tires. Either do this or take it to another shop for a second opinion.

Any suggestions?

 

State Inspection? We have emissions inspections here, but just what is a state inpsection?
Can the dealer FORCE you to buy tires or what?

 

My mistake I meant State Emissions Inspection. I live in Pennsylvania btw.

 

How about buying the cheapest new tires you can find, put them on for the inspection, then swapping back to your tires? You can keep to cheap ones for your inspection every year.

 

Check the state police files to see what the spec is for tires an measure your to see where it falls. i HAVE SWAPPED ALL SORT OF TIRES. Run slicks on the front street on the rear to check balance of car in turns, all sorts of tire combos, no big deal, its an ego and appearance thing mostly. As long as they are the correct size and have a good balance - you should not have an issue on the street. Sizes must match on each axle though. Woody

C U guyz in Pa Saturday.......Woody

 

Get your safety inspection performed somewhere else. (vii) probably gives the inspector a little discretion for things like excessive dry rot, deep cuts where ply/cord is not exposed, or where extremely irregular wear is noticed. But they shouldn't fail the tires because they are simply getting close to the minimum allowable tread. O course, it often makes sese to replace tires with closer to 4/32" remaining tread if you drive in wet weather or experience snow/ice (for cars equipped with all-season tires).

PA law...
Inspect the tires and wheels and reject if one or more of the following apply:

(i) A tire has two adjacent treads with less than 2/32-inch tread remaining at any point—less than 4/32-inch tread on the front tires of the vehicles having a gross weight in excess of 10,000 pounds.
(ii) A tire is worn so that the tread wear indicators contact the road in any two adjacent grooves.
(iii) A part of ply or cord is exposed.
(iv) A tire has been repaired with a blow-out patch or boot.
(v) There is a bump, bulge or separation.
(vi) A tire is marked “not for highway use,” “for racing purposes only” or “unsafe for highway use,” or has a similar designation.
(vii) There are other conditions or markings reasonably believed to render the tire unsafe for highway use.
(viii) A tire has been regrooved or recut below the original tread design depth except special taxicab tires which are identified as having extra undertread rubber.
(ix) A tire’s tread extends beyond the outer edge of the wheel housing inclusive of fender flares.
(x) The tires used on the same axle are not the same size or type of construction—bias, belted, radial or snow.
(xi) The wheel nuts or bolts are missing, loose or have improper thread engagement.
(xii) The stud or bolt holes are worn out of round.
(xiii) Part of the wheel is bent, cracked, welded or damaged so as to affect safe operation of vehicle.
(xiv) The rear wheel does not track front wheel in straight ahead position as originally designed.
(xv) The wheel base on one side differs from the wheel base on the other side by more than 1 inch, unless the vehicle’s design specifications indicate different left and right wheel base dimensions.
(xvi) Studded tires are in use after April 15 and before November 1.
(xvii) Retreads are on the front axle of a taxi.
(xviii) The diameter of duals is not within 3/8-inch of each other.
(xix) An axle has missing tires or rims.
(xx) A tire makes contact with the body or chassis. (xxi) Spacers over 1/4 inch in thickness are used to increase wheel track.

 

(xxi) Spacers over 1/4 inch in thickness are used to increase wheel track.

My, my. Gestapo!

 

Well, it looks like I won't be moving to PA any time soon. That is a ridiculous rule !

 

Maybe the tread is not good on the inside of the rear tires but looks good on the outside. Mine failed the safety test on this for an import to Canada.

Can't see why that would fail the emissions test, Dealer wants the sale I guess. This dealer must see many cars in for service with worse tires but does not have the test certificate as a hammer/carrot to get the sale, I'd skip going back to this pirate.

 

To answer your question yes. It's not ideal but when the closest tire shop doesn't stock what you have what other options do you have?

This car is quite sensitive to changes in tires but I never felt unsafe while driving. With fresh rubber on the rear I noticed my traction control light would start blinking and the brakes would pulse coming off a freeway onto a curved off ramp. It tripped me out for a while till I got my new front rubber and that stopped happening.

 

Go to another shop. If the same results. Replace your tires. Pretty simple to me. You can run a different set of rears if need be. After all, I drive around with drag radials from time to time. I don't see any difference in driving. Just don't let it rain...which hasn't been a problem this year...lol....

 

My only solution is to buy brand new rear tires that are a completely different brand. Has anyone ran different brand tires from the front compared to the rears before?

Part of me wants to be stubborn and ignore getting my inspection done and waiting until I feel I need tires. Either do this or take it to another shop for a second opinion.

Any suggestions?[/QUOTE]

I've been running LM-25 Blizzacks 265/35/19s on rear...(winter tires!!) & Achilles ATR Sports on the front....The rears have over 30,000 miles on them & appears they will last > 50,000. The ATRs on the front have about 40,000 miles on them & still have an even 4/32nds left. I was happy enough with the set up that before the Blizzacks were all gone I stocked up & have a second set of both in the basement ready to go again!! They handle just fine mixed & I've driven though 6-8 inches of unplowed snow with this set up!!

 

PS; The ATR are DIRT cheap at ONLINETIRES.com .

 

O.K. explain to me why you are taking a car to a Dealership for an inspection? I have NEVER taken any car of mine to a Dealership for an inspection. They have a built-in reason to reject your car for something, Duh, Duh. Am I right or what???